PurePontiacKid

^hey hey, no posting useless posts! now tell us what it is or else!

spray bombed and ready to go on also my ZXR hatch in that pic too

I didn't grab the rear skirts, I probably should just so I can say I have the full kit if I ever decide to sell it lol the front lip isn't that aggressive so it should give me the same amount of clearance the stocker does (if not moar D: ) that's a really common bumper on yahoo japan auctions; http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f97095229

^I have 8JJ with effectively -37ET up front, I run 205 tires and rub (when I turn, but I'm also tucking a good amount of tire at my ride height) even with rolled and (slightly) pulled fenders, -35ET on 8.5JJ would be slightly worse. on the rear it should be fine though, haven't tested it to see how it fits though.

I guess I'm the only one who thinks that front is disgusting lol not a bad find for $65 I think

narrower tire+moar lower=no pull necessary

^actually I rode on those shocks at my height for about 6 months and never had a problem with them, and they still appear to be in decent condition! It amazed me haha These shocks without springs in them will let the frame sit on the ground (found out on accident once lol) also this isn't what I was debating on posting lol just something I did for a friend

his car won't be on the road for a LONG time, if I feel froggy enough I MIGHT put em on my car for some pics but idk about that lol

So my friend wanted some coilovers for his 280ZX, the fronts were easy, just did what everyone else does with GC sleeves and Tokico HP front inserts. Now he just needed the rears, but he wanted to keep the matching Tokico HP’s all around, so he had me build him a pair of adjustable height coilovers for using the standard 280ZX Tokico Blue shocks, and I figured I might as well make a write-up on how I did it. This is A LOT like how slownrusty did his conversion, but he was using some other, now discontinued shocks for a 280ZX. First, start with your standard 280ZX Tokico HP rear shock: and you also need some steel pipe. I chose to use the exhaust pipe because it’s readily available, and I don’t think it should have too much of a problem holding the weight of the car (I cut mine to 8†long just to leave me some room for adjustment): whatever you choose to use, just make sure that one tube is small enough to fit tightly into the coilover sleeve you choose to use, and the other one fits over the first pipe and is large enough for the sleeve to sit on. Then put the shock in the vice facing down, and hit the lower spring perch with a hammer (it’s only pressed on, should come off fairly easy) now you’re left with this: what you need to do now is grind the upper washer looking thing on the top of the spring seat so that it will fit inside the first pipe (make sure to not make it too small): should fit like this, I was able to achieve a bit of a press-fit so I could put the top in the pipe by hand, and still have it snug enough to hold it’s weight: what you want to do now is cut the upper portion of the spring seat off, as low as possible while still fitting inside the pipe (so as to still maintain the press-fit originally designed): you should end up with this: discard the larger portion, or save it for scrap metal, I don’t care lol now put the smaller part (let’s call it upper washer from now on) inside the pipe and put it on the shock like so: I also put one of the rubber grommets the sleeve kit I used came with to center the pipe over the shock, and made sure the upper washer was completely flat against the top of the shock so as to make sure everything was straight. Also make sure the upper washer is clean of any debris: Now tack the washer into the pipe like so (I chose to leave a lip on the upper portion so I could weld the crap out of it and not have to worry about grinding too much of for it to fit inside the sleeve): be sure to not use too much heat or you could blow up the shock in your face!!! now take the whole pipe off of the shock and complete the weld: I know it looks like crap, don’t flame me too much haha While you’re waiting for the pipe to cool off, you might as well cut the lower pipe to length and prepare it for welding: cut the smaller part off so that it will fit on the pipe no problem: and discard the reducer. Now clean up the weld after it’s cooled off (not necessary if you’re really good at welding): one of the hard parts is figuring out where you want to put the sleeve for the coilover. I chose to make it so that with the collars adjusted all the way up, there was slight preload on the shock using the 330lb/in springs I’m using (I know, too stiff for HP’s, but it’s what the owner wants) put the sleeve on the pipe and tack the other pipe into position as flat as possible against the sleeve (sleeve isn’t pictured, sorry lol): take the sleeve off and finish the weld: wait for the pipe to cool off Put a couple of O-rings on the shock to insulate it from the pipe: and put the pipe back on: lightly tap it down onto the shock and make sure it’s seated: put the sleeve on: and reassemble the whole assembly similar to this: I didn’t put a bumpstop in there because my friend is using his own shocks and these are damn near used up. You might also want to figure out a way to make an upper hat for the spring to make sure it stays centered, but it may be difficult using the stock upper hat with the large bushings. And also paint or powder coat the pipes to keep them from rusting. And that’s how I converted my Tokico HP rear shocks to coilovers!

Stance do look similar, but they are ACTUALLY made in the US, not outsourced to Taiwan or whatever, just thought I'd make that clear haha

I found it in a for sale thread on Zilvia and posted it up on Z31p. Some other coilovers will work too, but I don't know of any that are proven. rturbo, basically all it is is a guy that posted a for sale ad, who bought Isis coilovers and used Stance collars and whatnot on them, so since the Stance collars thread onto the Isis coilovers, that means that hte Isis coilovers should be able to thread into the Stance/S9 adaptors.

glad someone found my find appealing haha

I'm not too worried about bigger brakes and whatnot, I'm not ever going to run bigger tires than what I have and I can already lock the fronts up. Z32 brakes don't work on our spindles anyways, so you'd have to have adaptors made if you wanted to use them, and then figure something else out for the rotors.

This is exactly what I'm fixing, I don't want that much camber (a bit, yes, but I will be able to remove all of it when I put my drift spares on) So I took my build on a little assbackwards and went for the style first, at least I've got the look I want, now I'm working on getting the handling where I want it, is that so bad? I simply don't like the fact that my build thread was locked and sent to the shed without any fair warning like "hey stupid, take out those pics we don't like" would have been better than just coming in and not finding my thread at all.

I don't see a point in making another thread after my first one was locked and sent to the shed. If the moderating staff feels that way about my car then idgaf.

No ma'am

No sir.

or he can un lock and move my thread back, there's no point in me making another thread if I already had one at one point.

well you guys certainly made my time feel wasted when you locked my build thread and sent it to the shed, so I only think it's fair; but I do have big stuff planned in the next couple of weeks.

No thanks, I know how you guys feel, so I won't be making another one.

Hey guys, too bad you locked and sent my thread to the shed, it's about to have a bunch of stuff done on it that hasn't been done on an S130 as of yet that I know of, and it's all in aid of making the car handle better and get rear suspension back in spec. like I said, too bad.

how it looked: had to raise it up about 1.5" because the 6k springs are too soft, once I get some 8k's I'm going to lower it back down a half inch and be all happy

I just put my S13 Megan Street rear coilovers on yesterday, and they go VERY low on our cars, when I first put them in I had them turned all the way down to their lowest setting with all the collars still in, and that literally put my frame rails on the ground lol!

Miguel is running a set of DC2 Integra coilovers, but he's also running 205/45-16 tires to be flush, you would need way more offset to not need as much stretch as that, unless you want that, which is cool too. personally, I'd go for the 16x9j -13ET Wats up front and the 16x9.5j -19ET but the bamf flares are way overkill, just get regular flares and be done with it.

also, which Z31 tubes did you use? the early ones ('84 '85) had a shorter control arm, whereas the late ones ('86-'89) had longer control arms (which means you would have had to have lengthened your control arms moreso than with the early ones)