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PurePontiacKid

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Everything posted by PurePontiacKid

  1. no I don't have heavy American Racing wheels lol they clear those just fine, but I' picked up a set of 14s I'm going to rebarrel and they hit just barely. might have to upgrade to a power rack and upgrade to aftermarket outers (have a little more clearance I think than regular tie-rods) before I put them on...
  2. haha nice bro, yeah guys on SB can be a bit abraisive at times, but they know what's cool. You gotta admit that lol anyways, confirmed that they WILL NOT fit stock wheels without spacers (again, I have modded knuckles so I can't say for sure how much of a spacer you would need) but it seems I would need about 3.5" backspacing to get them to clear
  3. well if it's the knuckle that hits, then I should be fine, I'm running way shorter knuckles than stock now (for more steering angle and quicker ratio) I was worried the bottom of the control arm might hit or something. this gives me more peace of mind haha
  4. Has anyone tried using TechnoToyTuning RCAs/bumpsteer spacers with 14" wheels? Considering picking up a set but only if they will fit my new 14" wheels
  5. I guess I could post pics of the conversion, here, too. Especially since I forgot to when someone asked lmao I still need to clean and polish or powder coat the tops on these carbs. and I need to clean up/tuck the wiring... I also want to make up some hard lines for the regulator to the carbs... so much to do still haha
  6. no sir, haven't hit the track with the SU's yet. going last weekend of this month though, pretty stoked.
  7. Yes, but wouldn't enough fuel going through the engine to essentially flood it be lower than 9:1 AFRs? I've checked the nozzles, they come back up flush with a crack of the throttle. I don't have a choke hooked up, either. Btw; problem came back two days after I swapped the bodies... have installed another FPR and now the fuel pressure is at 2.5psi and is still doing it.
  8. I swapped the float bowls over to the 3-screws, so those didn't change and weren't the cause lol
  9. I tried doing that before I swapped carbs. They were only sticking a tiny bit and only by hand, polished them up to where they didn't stick at all, and didn't change a thing..
  10. As soon as I get these presentable. Didn't get a chance to make the tops look pretty lol
  11. Car is running great now! Swapped my 3-screw bodies, dashpots and nozzles (swapped everything else over to them) and that solved the issue! Not sure wtf was goin on with the 4-screws, but I honestly don't care right now, enjoying the amazing intake noise I get now! Haha
  12. To clear things up, it only shot out of the front carb. Swapped needle/seat/float from another set of SUs I have and it doesn't do that anymore, but it is still having the same issue. I have tried running the car with the fuel pump disconnected (to see if it was too much pressure, can't turn it down less than 4.5psi) and that didn't change anything. Then tried turning the mixture adjusters all the way lean, and now the car pulls to just about 6k and hits the wall there, so apparently I was wrong in thinking it was a leaning out issue when in reality it is running too rich.
  13. White spark plugs, no black smoke, no smell of unburned fuel coming from the exhaust typically leads me to believe that a car is running lean. If it was running rich enough to bog the motor, id think the plugs would be black, and thered be a cloud of black smoke, along with a definite smell of unburned fuel from the exhaust...
  14. I don't believe its rich because there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe and the spark plugs are white/tan. I'm not running a fuel rail, hose straight to the carbs and the regulator has the return going straight to the stock return line in the car. It is a fixed pressure regulator. The ignition coil is the same from when I had EFI, which ran just fine to 6k with no issues (other than not being able to breathe well because of the stock EFI and intake lol)
  15. Yeah that's one of the only things I can think of, too... Did more testing today, and free-revving real hard (6k+ rpm) and fuel would shoot out of the front carb's float vent. Also noticed quite a bit of vapor shooting out of the same carb... Tried changing needle/seat/float from my other set with no change.
  16. Hi, I was wondering if someone could shed some light on my little problem I'm having. I just swapped out my stock EFI in my 79 280ZX for some 4 screw SUs I rebuilt and installed SM needles, and now when i m at WOT in any gear the motor just hits a wall and sounds like it has a limiter at 5k rpm. Will free-rev just fine. Also, if I go only about 3/4 throttle, the car will pull to 6k without any problems. Its definitely going lean, doesn't feel like an ignition issue. Have checked ignition timing, 15* initial, 35* all in. No vacuum leaks. Checked coil with known good unit. Car has Aeromotive carbureted street fuel pump (90gph). Mallory fuel pressure regulator (set at 5psi, have tried higher, not lower yet) and K&N filters. MSD Blaster coil and stock ignition ottherwise. Other than the WOT issue, the car runs perfect. Rock solid idle, no smoke, etc. Anybody have any insight?
  17. 79 non-GL 5spd is R180 (I know this because that's what my car came with lols) 3.36:1 2+2 auto came with R180, 3.54:1 81-83 5spd came with R200, 3.90:1 Turbos came with R200, 3.54:1
  18. Yeah he is. Basically, take your VLSD back out, weld the spider gears in your open carrier and put it back together with the stock axles. Its nothing but a headache with custom axles. I bottom out quite often, its no big deal. The offset bolts I used were from both a MX73 Cressida (bigger, more adjustment) and a Z31 (smaller, less adjustment) The toe I used the Z31 cages, cut them off the crossmember in the junkyard and welded them to my crossmember. As an update, I broke this subframe (hit a cone on the freeway) and put a new one in, its better in that I have more toe adjustment, and I also moved the outer bolt even farther down, I only had about -3.5* camber at this height. HOWEVER with this much misalignment in the poly bushings, it put A LOT of stress on the crossmember and broke it again, so I fixed the crossmember and replaced the bushings with heim ends and I have yet to have a problem again. I'm currently putting heims on another pair of arms to get my camber between -2 and -3* camber at my proper ride height.
  19. These kinds of coilovers need the preload to function properly (as properly as Megan coilovers can function...) and not blow out (which Megan's are prone to do as it is, because they're cheap coilovers). Threading the spring down that far (as seen in the last picture) WILL set them on the bumpstops.
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