PurePontiacKid

nope, they can go in at all sorts of different positions. I lined them all up and it sorted most of it out, then I pulled more camber (had like -4.5*, now I'm at about -3*) out of the rear and helped even more lol

Hey, so as you may know, my car had a VLSD and CV axles. Well, one of the axles broke, so now I'm back to a regular welded R200 (same case, just different carrier) with the U-joint halfshafts. Now, my car has this super gnarly vibration/rumbling noise from the rear-end when I'm coasting out of gear (above 35mph). It doesn't make the noise when the car is in gear coasting, or accelerating, only coasting out of gear. I had a similar issue with my stock R180 diff and U-joint axles. Could it be the U-joints are bad? Everything under the car is tight, no play in anything. I also disassembled the axles and re-greased them. Could I have put them back together wrong and now they're out of balance?

I had them turned down some amount on a lathe is all I had to do to them sorry for the late replies, been without a computer for a while now

that is disgusting.

Nah bro, I got the aluminum Wilwood ones, BALLIN'! I like how you call out how my car is more about looks than performance... in this thread of all threads where I literally show all the high performance mods I've just finished on my rear subframe. Good job.

didn't take me but like 2 minutes at the very most per side to cut mine out...

8" front, 10" rear, 195/50-15 all around. You mad bro?

Here we go with the anti-stretch stuff..... tbh, I usually don't even track my car on these wheels (hard to find a place that can mount the tires haha) and when I do some streeting, the car handles just fine. it's not like 195's are smaller than stock anyways, and the DZ101's I'm running are amazing, so I'm happy with it.

I just used a 3" hole saw and then used a die grinder to give me the extra clearance needed for the adjustment: I need to repaint the strut tower though now lol

haha thanks man, I actually prefer the way my car drives without the rear bar as opposed to with the stock one. with it on, the car just seems to want to rotate quite scarily, without it, it drives much more balanced and controlled, although I'm still dialing spring rates in and whatnot. I love the way my car handles, even as low as it is, it's still not lowered that much compared to how most guys with S13's and whatnot lower their cars to get to this height. I've actually taken my car out to the track since my last post (drifting), and I love the way the car reacts out there, but I think I've over sprung my Megan Street coilovers when I put the 10kg/mm springs on them, so I'm looking into either PBM or Megan Track dampers (really would prefer the PBM's though) and maybe step up to 12kg/mm in the back.

well aren't you so special.

T3 is technotoytuning........ are you talking about these ones? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-510-280zx-CAMBER-PLATES-/380348906693?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588e8fbcc5 those are for a 280ZX and won't fit an S30.

look a couple posts up lol post #1368

I don't see why you guys have issues going over speedbumps, I can get over them just fine.

yeah, I re-read what you said after I posted and was too lazy to edit my post lmao

the offset bolts for camber are still a great addition, that way you can dial some out (no matter what, if your car is lowered at all, it will have some camber) or at least even it up side-to-side R200 parts won't fit in an R180 I don't think. just get a 3.9 R200 from a '82-'83 280ZX, you probably wouldn't even be able to tell the difference between the two ratios anyways. anyways, I built my own in the front (koni reds, GC sleeves, 6k springs), and am using Megan Street S13 coilovers in the back with 10k springs (want to move to 12k with PBM or Megan Track dampers though)

got new tires, went with 195/50-15 Dunlop DZ101's this time around, love these tires

and to kind of illustrate the camber adjustability, here's a comparison of stock camber (lowered 4") vs. with the offset bolts adjusted all the way out (lowered 4") stock: modified:

I don't, I just look at the pretty pictures some guys use a translation website, but that's like super mega engrish to the max lol

Hey, so recently I had been building a new subframe for my ZX, finished it, and I figure I'll show you guys what all I've done with it. first, the finished product: and a short break-down of what I've done: toe adjustability(using Z31 eccentric bolts and brackets): camber adjustability(using Cressida eccentric bolts and custom brackets): solid subframe bushings (using S13 subframe bushings turned down a little bit): Viscous Limited Slip Differential from a Z32, and case from an SE V6 S12 (must swap pinion flange to work with stock style driveshaft) and custom CV axles (don't have a pic of these) I also deleted the rear sway bar (I run super stiff spring rates to compensate for trying to get rid of squat so it was causing a lot of oversteer, and was also the lowest part of my car) however, I am regretting the CV axle conversion, as the boot is VERY close to the frame rail at my chosen ride height (~4" suspension drop) and has already torn both outer CV boots from rubbing when I go into driveways and such. I'm probably going to have an adaptor turned out so I can run the regular R200 halfshafts with the VLSD side axles.

actually I used the Z31 toe adjusters as the toe adjusters (since stock crossmembers don't have any adjustment whatsoever) therefore put them in the stock position as on the Z31, and used the Cressida bolts on the outside for camber adjustment. here's my inner mount (closest to the diff) as you can see the slot goes back and forth (to adjust the toe-in) and here's my outer mount (closest to the wheels) as you can see the slot goes up and down (to adjust camber) the Z31 bolts offer ~1* of adjustment the Cressida/MKII Celica Supra bolts offer ~2* of adjustment if my eyeballs are correct (lol can't get on an alignment rack to measure hahaha)

also, since you're going through the trouble of stripping everything down, go the extra step on the rear crossmember and modify it for camber and toe adjustability like I did, and like the Z31 guys do as well (although I used MX73 Cressida bolts for camber adjustment since they offer slightly more adjustability than the Z31 offset bolts do.) read this writeup: http://www.garymolitor.com/300zx/cambermod/cambermod.htm (but I just cut a pair of the plates off a Z31 subframe in the junkyard with a hacksaw, only takes about 20mins to do.) here's a comparison of the Cressida bolts to the Z31 bolts: one problem specific to the 280ZX for this mod is the stock bolts are smaller in diameter than the offset bolts. all I did was drill out the bushing sleeves. they're only slightly larger and there's still plenty of metal left on the sleeves. also, what are you planning on doing for your diff mount?

I find it hard to believe your rails are half an inch off the ground, but ok lol you're probably going to want to do the "bumpsteer mod" service that PBM has to space the control arm a little farther down to help with the clearance to the crossmember, and you can also cut out about a half an inch out of the crossmember lip (that's what I did) something you may want to try if you find it bottoming out when you accelerate is to swap the front springs to the back and also possibly remove your rear sway bar. what size tires are you running?

lol u mad bro? the only reason someone get's PBM's is to go low the fact that 240SX coilovers go about 2" on a 280ZX, I didn't realize that the PBM's could possibly go that high.

I didn't realize PBM's went that high.