PurePontiacKid

I run with or without a pair of K&N filters, not really a big difference with or without them, I don't really fel like sourcing a stock box lol I have considered extending my new heatshield to the hole where the intake used to run, but meh haha I'm probably using the wrong oil in the carbs for this heat, too. 0W-20 per a friend's reccomendation, might switch to ATF and try that out. float level has been set, per this website: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

A friend of mine wanted to see what I had done, so I took a couple pics as it sits, here is my heat shield:

Indeed, I think this is another issue with my setup now that my carburetors are sorted out. I can definitely tell the difference between vapor lock and fuel percolation. I only really experienced the vapor lock on a lengthy, HARD drive on a rural road, and just getting out of the throttle for a couple of seconds would allow the car to run properly again. I've been told that the pump to get to get rid of vapor lock is a Carter pump, I have yet to look at them yet, however (getting rid of my $200 Aeromotive pump stings a little too much still haha). I don't think that really helps with your EFI stuff, though.

I switched because the rail will keep less fuel near the carburetors just sitting still, which I think was part of the problem with the way I had the previous hoses routed. All of that fuel was just sitting in the hoses until the motor used it, which made the fuel build up a bunch of heat before it even got to the carbs. And actually, I built a super simple heats hield that bolts to the bottom of the stock heat shield which, so far, seems to have pretty much gotten rid of my problems thus far, even in the 110+* weather on my way home from work today.

yeah I got that, I've got insulated rubber hose to boot. this is what it used to look like, with the hose routed behind the engine instead of in front: and this is what my current set-up looks like:

I'm using an Aeromotive electric fuel pump in the stock ZX location, near the fuel tank. I was running a rubber hose, but probably in the worst spot, behind the motor... I'll see if there's a way I can neatly route some hoses across the rad support. Thanks for the reply!

So I've recently swapped my 280ZX to SUs, and now that it's summer-time in Vegas, temps are going 100*+ and on my drive home I'm noticing my idle quality drops off, the car misses when I'm accelerating, etc. Basically all the symptoms of vapor-lock/fuel percolation. I've got my SU's with the stock fuel rail that I have wrapped in heat-reflecting tape, have wrapped the float-bowls in heat-reflecting tape, and have a good condition stock heatshield that has been powder coated and covered in heat-reflecting tape on the side of the header, and also about the first 8" of the header primaries have been wrapped in header-wrap. I've also got the stock clutch fan, along with a pusher e-fan, and a Koyo radiator. Coolant levels never get above half on my temp gauge. The car drives around great in the morning, only driving around during the hottest parts of the day does this happen. I've done nearly everything I can think of to keep heat down in the engine bay, and yet the entire bay still seems hotter than when I had the EFI and no header wrap at all. Is this something I'm just going to have to live with? I suppose I could try and make a second heat-shield that goes underneath the carbs better, and wrap some more of the header, or am I just running in circles at this point? Thanks!

THREAD BUMP.

lol wrong thread, my bad

I just took a big ass sledge hammer to that whole area including the frame rail to make clearance ended up just going back to half-shafts because they still rubbed and tore boots at my height.

SO DOWN for tail lights. will you sell the two lenses seperately? I only really want the turn signal/backup light portion.

It's a kit for S30s, which is why everything fits like poop.

NCRCAs Me Gusta.

Oh, this has turned into another theoretical discussion a Z forum... How original.

16x8 effectively -30 with 215/45-16 about -5* camber

Am I the only one that caught this? haha If you want to drift WELL in a 280ZX, you're going to have to be committed to the car 200%. The only reason I still rock a 280ZX is because of my undying love for the car. Welding the diff is great for predictability, and I don't really notice any excessive tire wear from dailying with it, and if you run small tires, it won't hop around either. Expect to do a LOT of sawing at the wheel to keep the car sideways with stock knuckles (and a LOT of spinning out, stock angle is WEAK, but not as bad as S30s! hahaha). My personal opinion, lower it till you get about 3-4* negative camber to lose grip and run 195-205 wide tires. I'm at -1.5* and can't do 3rd gear entries anymore with my stock motor (like said above dual SU carbs with header and single 2.5" exhaust) on 205's. I have to run 195s or smaller to be able to hold a LONG drift. Dual exhaust is, like said above, redundant. I wanted twice pipes myself when I first got my car, but with my ride height, there isn't any room to have two pipes run above the crossmember (in the stock location) a single 2.5" is plenty.

shorten steering knuckles.

I would definitely be interested in rear turn signal (upper lenses) for the early taillights! you should try and source a pair of JDM side markers to make, as well:

I know Megan's do for sure. I've got another pair of Stances and they do not have pillowball uppers. Just curious, but why are you asking?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqLpViCcLHE

My car is a 280ZX, so it might possibly be different from an S30, but I've been low for over 2 years now and have not had any problems with hitting my pan.

Just an FYI, the 280ZX has a coilover design stock, this is Z31/S12 specific.

MKI Volkswagen front inserts are pretty much the shortest off the shelf shocks you can buy. I've got Koni red versions of these in the front of my car. even at my height I still have nearly the same suspension travel as stock with the use of camber plates.

still only spaced out 8's... new wheels will be 10 all around, though

15x10 -50 195/50-15 about -5* camber