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Pharaohabq

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Everything posted by Pharaohabq

  1. Pharaohabq
    Hey Doc, Build looks like you're pretty much done, it's been a few months and I've got to say you've made a lot of progress, it's awesome to hear it running. You may consider heat tape or even shielding around that turbo with the proximity to the rail and the lines and likely around that downpipe too since it's so close to the firewall. That'll help prevent issues, if things got too hot. I'm sure by now you've probably got a good tune in, so let us know how it's going. What did you end up doing about the behind the dash wiring, and did you keep much of the original wiring, or did you replace the whole harness? Phar
  2. Pharaohabq
    AZ 240, That's a great idea The seats look naked w/o those. I wonder if mine still has them. BFG, ABS melts in acetone, so I couldn't tell you without trying it. I know people have used high temp nylon for motor oil applications. we'd have to soak it and see. I'm still not sure where you're talking. The one I was thinking is where the adjuster screws in on the right of your picture. not sure we're talking about the same part. Re-Reading your post, then it is the same piece. I'll have to see if I can find one to see what it looks like. I seem to remember it's rectangular on the face, fits in a square hole and pushes out when the screw is inserted to hold in place.
  3. Pharaohabq
    Sounds awesome, If you need help sourcing parts or whatnot, Let us know. Oh and SuperLen is building a modern ECU for our cars.
  4. Pharaohabq
    BFG, Can you take a picture of where you're talking? I think I know what you're talking about, one of my old S30's had an issue like that. My 280 in in great shape, and if it's the part I'm thinking, it should be pretty easy to pull out and model. We might be able to find a picture in the parts reference, but it wouldn't have measurements. You're talking about the plastic insert that the adjuster screws into right?
  5. Pharaohabq
    Well look at it this way, It's pretty stock already. so Whichever you decide, you're likely not going to use that tranny anyway, so just go with one or the other and find a 6 speed to throw in there. you'll be plenty happy. If cost is at all an issue I'd highly recommend going with Stock L28 or find a V8. the RB's are really nice but so is the price tag. You'll have plenty of other choices to make, so if this is the toughest, then you're going to have a long road ahead.
  6. Pharaohabq
    One of my buddies has Butane in his 260Z AC system. He says it works awesome, is super cheap. Yeah it's flammable, but the amount isn't enough to do much unless you released it all at once. I don't know anything about the lubrication, other than he said his system is all stock, so I assume he didn't change his lube from the original R12 compatible stuff. If Freeze 12 works, then I'll probably just use that rather than rip apart everything to try to clean it out.
  7. Pharaohabq
    certainly would make Sex in an S30 a lot easier!
  8. Pharaohabq
    Freeze 12? Is that an R12 replacement? I've been trying to decide how to setup my AC, if I should switch to 134a, or try to find the original R12 and swap my compressor.
  9. Pharaohabq
    After using 123Design a little last night, it's a different bird, and frustrating since elements seem to disappear and the .STL's created aren't stable oh well. I'm sure it's good, but there's a learning curve. I'm probably not doing something right. Creo is pretty nice and intuitive for me. A lot of people like Sketchup. It'll be cool to see those drains in 3D.
  10. Pharaohabq
    RIght, Casting molds are awesome. I've seen a few guys do that. In fact there's a threat on here about a guy casting his own injection and intake horns. For the molds you don't have to print them solid either. you can print a 30% infill and the outside should be nearly perfect. They are much easier than the CNC cutting. Let me know on the Ninjaflex, that'll be cool. And Sure! If you get a model of those Oil bottle drains, that would be great, since those are next to impossible to find. It'll save some modeling time. Have you used 123design? I use Creo, but I just got 123design and it looks pretty good.
  11. Pharaohabq
    Sure that would be great. We could collaborate on some projects if you'd like. What software do you design in? The blower fans wouldn't be so bad, Just a really long build, and I'm not so sure about the overhangs. It would be at the larger end of our capacity. I'm not sure it blower fans are that much on the unavailable list. They don't tend to really go bad I think. Durability, that really depends on what you print in. Nylon might be the best idea since it's a moving part. 95% of my printing is in ABS. It works well though anything that would be in the sun for a longer time would need to be painted. (emblems) Painting with chrome paint then white/black/red/blue for the details has worked well. I want to start printing in Ninja-flex for printing grommets and boots. I need to see how well it holds up to oil/grease first. One project on my list is the drains for the Series 1 hatch, they look like a half oil bottle. But they allow airflow. I want to create a pair that can integrate fans that would run off a solar panel to push air out of the car on sunny days to keep it cooler inside. It's ideas... That's the great part about 3D printing is that you don't have to stick with the OEM look.
  12. Pharaohabq
    I'm still printing parts is anyone is looking for anything for their Z. I still have all the design files for everything on this thread and parts are available. More I'm looking for additional parts that can be designed in cad to make them better or replaced since some parts aren't available in NOS anymore. We can have things sintered into metal, through shapeways, but that's not too cheap. I print in ABS, and am now printing in .15 to .35 mm layer heights for much nicer parts. Let me know if you need anything.
  13. Pharaohabq
    I disagree, Your comfort is a big part of driving and loving your car. But always safety should be first. Make sure mechanically your brakes and all are working really well. Then look at replacing the seatbelts. they're really old and may not hold in a wreck. once that's set then look at the seats, will they hold you safely and be comfortable to drive w/o giving you a thrombosis. From there you should start looking at the cosmetics. Besides people won't see you anyway. because you're just a blur flying past...
  14. Pharaohabq
    I'd be wary, but have a real mechanic check it out for you. Someone who knows S30's Put down a deposit so the Mech doesn't buy it from under you hehe. No really have it checked out. if it's only 20K miles then a lot of the factory marks should still be underneath on the driveshaft etc. If it's been restored then it all depends on the job they did. Get some felt and a magnet to check for bondo especially on the rear quarters. Pictures aren't showing any of the series 1 features. like the emblems or vents. Those seats look like replacements. Stock was all vinyl. definitely get a good look underneath. often you'll see dents and such on low mileage I'd expect it to be relatively clean.
  15. Pharaohabq
    Nice job on that heater core. It looks brand new. I'm going to have to pull mine apart. I get that film on my windshield. I know it's leaking antifreeze.. ick!
  16. Pharaohabq
    Exactly... That's why I'm sticking with the stock harness bcu/ecu etc. Nats isn't a big deal. A consult3 can fix any BCU issue you have anyway. It'd be a lot cheaper than the Z fever route and you won't cripple the HR.
  17. Pharaohabq
    I haven't really done much of anything with my engine for a while. Mostly I've been tearing down the body itself to prep it for paint (When I can afford that) I've got the front end all apart, and will start the rear soon. I also got a pair of 08 350Z leather seats to put in so I'm modding the tranny tunnel a bit to fit them. I'll be using the stock 280 rails adapted to the 350Z sliders. for the mount. It should all work, just it's a pain to do the mods. Pain, I mean takes time I don't have right off. Anyway, my HR is sitting on a roller with the tranny attached, waiting for me to get the paint done. then it'll be wiring it up. I'm also going to use the 350Z steering column with the adjustable height etc. I'll have to adapt the lower end from the stock 280 rack due to the length differences. But it shouldn't be a big deal. I want to do that so I can use the 350Z blinkers etc on the column instead of the stock, since it'll plug into my harness anyway. The biggest issue is trying to see if a 300ZX steering wheel will fit on a 350Z column, since I want to use the 91 wheel with the cruise buttons. The 350 and 370z wheels will work, but they're pricy. There is a 350z wooden wheel that looks like the 280 wheel, that I'm really tempted to use. I'd have to use a different set of cruise buttons then. oh it's a project.
  18. Pharaohabq
    Some People Really like the stretch. Just remember the tire design isn't made for that. It'll be a shame if you get rash on those pretty rims too. But hey it's your car. Mount the darn wheels already, we're waiting for pictures!
  19. Pharaohabq
    This is looking really great! All those Zinc'd bolts and parts are so clean. Not many of us can do this level of detail. We can only huddle lowly in the shadow of your awesomeness.
  20. Pharaohabq
    Paint is cheap compared to the engine and suspension work. If the body is solid, then buy the car, use the paint condition as basis for a discount. That's the most important thing with these cars is how solid is the body? Having the engine you want is a big deal, so that adds to the value. The last big question to ask is why is he selling it? if someone spent $5K to swap the engine, he must have a really good reason to be letting it go.
  21. Pharaohabq
    Nice Job! What'd you have to do to put in those 350Z Seats? Did you use the stock 240Z sliders? I just scored a set of 08 leather 350z seats for $300, but I think the stock 240 mounts are in the way. I may have to weld some floor plates to fit them in. That or cut off the 350Z mounts and weld the 240Z mounts to the 350Z sliders. my seats are powered. Check out my VQ Swap Primer in the V6 area before you start the Vq35DE swap. There's a bit you should know.
  22. Pharaohabq
    That's right you still need the HR harness. If you are going that far, it's cheaper to buy the ECU/BCU/KEY from the same car your ECU came from Sure the ECU mods from Z fever could work. I don't know anyone who's used them but They've been doing it a while so I'm sure their system works. I wouldn't go aftermarket, Haltech or such, only because that's not specifically designed for the HR. The HR has variable intake and exhaust timing. I believe Haltech only runs the intake timing leaving the exhaust at zero. In anycase The stock harnesses also require the Dash harness too for the key and any instruments (with the AC AMP) I'm using all the HR harnesses so I can run the lights and blinkers etc off the 350Z wiring rather than the 35 yr old 280Z wires. I'm also working on a steering shaft mod to mate the 350z adjustable steering column to the bottom half of the 280z column. I'll need a newer type steering wheel.
  23. Pharaohabq
    Hi Koshin, Great! another HR build, I'll be really interested in seeing what you do with yours. It looks like you've already got the engine. Do you have the harnesses? ECU/BCU/KEY? IPDM? You're getting parts, but I'd recommend you stop buying extras till you get the engine in place and running. You're going to need to get the accessories like the Alternator. You'll need new clutch parts. and the Harnesses, Turbo Toys dismantles a lot of 350 z's so they're a good source. but look around. It looks like you're going to use the Reproduction mounts, That's fine, but the McKinney stuff is good, though a little expensive. If I had to do it again I'd go with their kit. You're going to need the Crossmember modded, so take a good look at mine. I boxed mine in a bit under the steering rack for strength. Have you read my VQ swap primer in this same forum? I'll be looking for your thread.
  24. Pharaohabq
    Don't forget to check the wanted/for sale forums on here too.
  25. Pharaohabq
    you may have battery power connected rather than switched ignition power connected to your coil. Check your wiring through the FSM or Haynes manual.
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