Pharaohabq

Maybe you had a bad experience with a Z club, but really they're still your best resource for parts and information in any area. There's nothing better than hands on. I'd recommend you still go take a look. If you don't like how it's run, then instead of turning your back, I would challenge you to get involved and make improvements in your local club so that other people don't get turned off and that we can keep more Z cars on the road. There's a lot of benefits to being in a Z club. Phar.

Welcome... A few things you might want to look at before they put in the cage. A#1, you want to see what group/area you're going to be racing in. Make sure the cage conforms to that + the next group up at the minimum because you don't want to have to modify that cage after it's put in. You can search on here about cages, but also contact the SCCA and see what their requirements are. Since you're going with the SR20, you're already going to be out of a few classes. I think McKinney makes an SR mount kit for the S30. it's not cheap tho. Next, you mentioned Seats, Well there's a lot to be said for buying race specific seats that are certified for your use. The seatbelts will also need to be changed. The stock ones are not good enough, especially at 40 years old. You might also look at Bad Dog Rails for your chassis, they can tie things together and stiffen your body a bit to handle the HP you're looking to put down. The R180 in the 240Z may be iffy at 300HP, but an R200 from any 280Z should be fine for that amount, though you might consider a different gear ratio, and a 5 speed from a later S130. Nothing you wrote mentioned Brakes, you will need to sort those before you buy your wheels, you may have fit issues otherwise. Not to mention you could upgrade the Stub axles to something thicker for the horsepower. You've got tons of plans, but keep your budget. Those Gnose kits are sweet, but they're notorious for needing a bit of massage for fit, so you might consult a body shop for that, unless you know what you're doing. We can help you with so much of this, but keep a thick skin and think about your questions before posting. Lastly, DL the FSM for your car, it'll help you more than you know, and it can be found free with a google search. again Welcome to Hybridz, we're looking forward to your build... Phar

Yeah the striations are an issue. I may be able to get it printed on my buddies resin printer, Those work nice, but I'm not sure how well that would handle heat or wear. Also the resins are a lot more expensive than ABS. I'm thinking if this is printer flat on the surface then filed down a bit on the edges it would be quite functional, though it won't be an exact duplicate. I'm going to need to make a new printer that uses a better system for overhangs. If I had the overhang supports printed in PLA or some other water soluable it would make these parts much nicer. Granted I could overprint and sand to cleanup, then perhaps the acetone bath to smooth the edges. How much shrinkage did you see with the aluminum? Did you try the Aluminide, instead? I was looking as shapeways to do metal printing for me.

Interesting, So you're putting the ECU facing outward on the passenger side? I was going to mount mine basically up under the dash on the firewall behind the heater piping. Obviously you won't have that so this is a pretty easy location for you, Though rotating it 90 deg CW might be an idea or even putting it in the kick plate similar to the stock 350Z location. It's up to you of course. Did you decide if you're going to include the BCU or if you're going to have uprev delete that NATS for you? Those wheel wells look good. Certainly not an easy part to shape. Are you going to leave the aluminum, or glass in rounded uppers?

Probably a good call if you don't have the time of the $ to drop. As for your 240Z, The AC isn't that tough. There's a lot that you can get from a 280Z ac setup that will straight bolt onto your car, then you'll need an AC shop to vacuum it all out and upgrade to R134. It won't be an issue so long as they get all the old oil out of the pump and condenser. That or you can keep it with the R12, but that's more expensive. You can get stock 240Z "dealer option" AC switches and even AC from a 240Z but the 280Z/280ZX stuff will work just as well and be a lot easier to source. As for the interior, Black Dragon has most of it, is not them, then there's Datsun Restore, among others to get you all you need. MSA might still be able to get stuff as well. You can consult a local Datsun shop (if there's one near) to see if they have more resources.

I've got a good dome light for my 280Z I'll pull it out and see what it might take to print it. The problem with the light is that it is slightly curved which might make it harder to print. I can make it flat and it would be then easy to print but it wouldn't be an exact duplicate. I'll start working on it and let you guys see what I come up with. I've also been thinking about a replacement that could fit in the same location, but would have switches and 2 lights real similar to the Z32 dome light. I'll work on an OEM replacement first though. thanks for the suggestion.

Glad you're happy with the repair ring. These work really well with 240 Z's. I'm still looking for more suggestions on other Z parts that we can model and print to replace parts that we really just can't get anymore. I can print in about any color of ABS plastic, and I can have metal parts printed through shapeways.com or other outlets. I've got a decent model of the early 240Z side emblems, so I'll probably have that printed in aluminum. A pair should run about $100, Which is on par with used. in ABS I can print a pair in ABS and paint them for ~ $30 bucks, so I haven't decided which direction I want to go, but likely I'll start with the ABS. Is anyone needs any parts recreated, I'm still interested in helping. Phar

did you try to stick a magnet to it to see how thick the bondo is?

There's a few threads about this type of question. What should I get? Really that all depends on you. If sounds like your 240 is a bit of a project. But depending on the amount of rust that 280Z could be at least as much of a project. In so far as the engine size, there's not that much difference between the two power-wise. the L28 is fuel injected, so that's a plus (if it's working well) and it's already got the AC that you need. So that leans me toward the 280Z based on what you've said. The oil consumption means a rebuild is in your future. It's good to know how your engine looks and works internally. not to mention catching some of the escaped horses. The 280Z has a 5 speed which IMHO is a necessity for highway cruising. But again Rust is the real issue. If the 280 has that much rust as you've described, it's likely there's more hiding. That means too that however nice the paint job currently is, that' it'll have to go. If you get it, first thing you'd need to do is sand down all the rusted areas back a couple inches in the paint and treat/primer and repaint. that way you can try to stop the current rust issue or at least slow it down. Rust is the enemy. Both your car and this need work, but if you have to have only one, I'd try to get the 280Z for a lot less than he's asking, but it's up to you. If you like it, then it's worth it to you. If you think for the same $3500 you can get your 240Z all situated how you'd like then go that way. (probably not everything for that price) there's a ton that you can do yourself. That's really going to be the clincher. How much time do you have to work on either car? If you're handy and can do it yourself, then keep the 240Z. If you want a project that doesn't need that much, then go buy the 280Z. Ideally do what FHPTOM said and buy the 280Z to drive while you fix up the 240Z. Can't really go wrong with that.

Wow, have you tried lifting the flapper in the AFM to see if it'll turn on the Fuel pump? You should be able to hear it. I believe this is in the FSM...

it's especially hard to drive fast in the woods while hauling logs! Who would haul logs with a Z? heresy!

Looking good. You've done a lot of work. I bet it doesn't drive like a boat anymore. Did you address your seats or other interior parts yet?

You might also consider replacing your radiator hoses. I mean you can pull them off to inspect them, but if they're old and bulbous you may have blockage inside. I've had that happen. as tony said, some antifreeze will make a big difference. maybe your rad cap is rusted out and not holding pressure. a radiator shop should be able to diagnose cheap.

Welcome to the Multi- Z owner world. Soon you'll be like me and have owned 10 Z's and currently have 3. 2 of which are major projects.

W/o Snow tires these S30's can get away from you pretty easy in the snow. Careful out there.

I know you have big plans for your car. but I'd suggest you hold off on the LS1 conversions for a little while, till you get used to your car and you get all the wild ideas sorted out. There's tons of unfinished projects out there and we'd hate to see another. If you have any questions, please let us know. The best method for upgrading is to have a well thought out plan, and a budget that's 2-3x what you think it might cost. Especially think about that you want your end product to be. If it's a street car then go street car, if it's a race car then your goals are going to be much different.

I know this was said already, but to restate: If you can get good insurance on the car for full agreed upon value, then you're probably going to be fine. Salvage is one term, but you can talk to your local DMV to see if they support rebuilt titles, since there IS a difference. Rebuilt should be almost as good as a clean Title, but the caviots are A that you're buying damaged goods, and thus if you ever sell it, you'll be selling damaged goods. That's what the salvage on the title means. You may still get great return on the car later on, but first why are you buying it? Not to resell, certainly, If so you're making a mistake. You want to drive it and love on it, then go buy one, just know what you're buying. Do the magnet test, See what kind of warranty the guy will give you on his work. And most of all, see what you can insure it for, since that may be the tell tale factor.

Thanks. That's great to hear. Yeah with the cooper lights I've had to cut off the entire chrome ring around the outside, and with that it barely fit, but then I've got to make new mounts for it. I'd like to make it a sealed unit since cutting the ring cut the mounts for the lens. I can glue it all together and since it'll be tight in the scoop it shouldn't be noticeable, but if I had a Glass (pyrex) cover I could eliminate the inner (stock) lens and make it all one unit. Lance, what are you planning for the mounting? Obviously you're removing the stock aiming mechanism. I was going to start with wooden blocks to get the height and locations sorted, then print up plastic mounts to integrate the housing to the S30 chassis. I don't expect much if any cutting.

Nifty on the Fiat 500 idea. I'd really like to see how that turns out. I'm working on a set of 06 Mini Cooper lights custom fit to a set of FPR Scoops myself, with the clear plastic covers. I'd love to find actual shaped glass covers, but it's looking like the only way to do that is to make a mould and slump glass appropriately into it. or have it commercially produced. Either was we're talking bucks. Those Fiat 500 lights really look like an easy fit.

Markib85, No problem man. Yeah Give it a shot. I know what you mean, I'm 6'5" and it's tight, but that's one thing I love about the S30's all the headroom! If you think it's in the tranny, then do the easy parts first, Bleed the master and slave cylinders. Yes they're hydraulic. The slave is the pain to do since it's under the car. you can buy a Speed bleeder valve at the autoparts store and stick it in a hose and use that to bleed the brakes and clutch. it'll save you a lot of work getting in an out etc. If you do need a new tranny, DON'T rebuild the tranny, it's way cheaper to replace than to rebuild. There's tons of 5 speeds from 280ZX's around, and they bolt in. Yeah, if you have a real and actual Factory Service Manual then hold onto that. There's not many paper ones left. the Electronic version is pretty good to use too. Now I'm not talking the Haynes manual though that's great too, the FSM has a lot more detail on the car. So if you have both then you should be in great shape. With your background, you might be really, I MEAN REALLY interested in converting your car to Megasquirt. (I am a LAN admin so similar background) Megasquirt is a DIY version of much more modern EFI for cars, MAP based, not AFM based. You can buy all the new harnesses and stuff, but if you get it installed you'll find your car then runs awesome. It runs nice on the stock system in good shape, but it was night and day when we put on MS. So you might really want to look into it. MPG didn't change that much, but responsiveness and the smoothness of running was amazing. It also can be easily setup to handle a turbo. Look as the threads on Megasquirt on here for more info. Another possibility though way more expensive is the Hesco EFI upgrade using 94 GM parts. I'm not saying buy Hesco, but you could buy the 94 Jeep harness, ecu etc from a junkyard and get modern EFI that way too. Megasquirt is cheaper tho. Sounds like you're getting as handle on things. Let us know if you have other questions, Oh Pictures are great! we'd love to see your car, not just the busted parts

Oh Some more of your Questions regarding the Electricals: The Switch on the center console could be for the electric antenna. Early systems had a switch to raise and lower the ant. I think it was with blue wires, so I'd guess that. As for the other parts, you really need to Download the free FSM from the Xenons30 site and go through it. If you get a multimeter it'll help, also a Toner will help a lot to get you familiar with the wires. Remember always test to ground (Chassis) first. The wiring isn't really that hard when you start to get into it. Yes there's a lot of wires, but they all have a purpose. The kludged up additional parts aren't going to be in the harness. So long as they're not hot you're probably going to be fine. Just tape them up and label things. The FSM will really help with that. The FSM will also help you figure the right wires for your lights. As for the mechanical parts like your speedo, it's probably the cable. The jump when shifting could be your tranny, could be your clutch, could be the diff. We need more information on that. Is there any noise? Gas Tank, The only way to be sure is to drain and drop the tank. You should replace all the rubber lines while you're at it. That way you'll know you're not leaking from the back end. While it's out you can have it boiled and recoated. Pressure testing should show any leaks. The gas smell could also be the hatch seal especially if you're carbureted. Depends on how strong the smell is. Exhaust leaks can smell like gas in the winter too. Your car is running so it can't be as mucked up as Clocker seems to tout. So take your time and get to know what you're looking at. Little projects add up to a fixed up car. so keep it up.

Welcome to Hybridz. You've got to have a little thick skin, but there's tons of info on here. Best thing I can tell you is to DL the FSM and read all the threads you can. No problem though, It's amazing what can build a charge. The important part is to keep in mind what make a circuit. It can't be anything in your car because there's only the one connection point at the key. You car's Chassis is ground as well so anything touching the car's chassis would already be grounded to itself, (and likely causing the smoke to escape) so you know it can't be anything internal to your car. I assumed you weren't parks on any downed electrical lines or any external power sources so the only thing it could be is the static charges. Your mention of the especially dry air just added to that. Sparks can be fun to play with, but you're right, When filling up you should be careful. So I should have said "WHILE inserting and filling with the nozzle" you want to be touching the car. That way you're equalized with the pump and with the car so you should be safe. Another question we didn't answer is the Fuel leaking when full. Well it's because you're overfilling. The Gas tank has a fill tube which causes overflow at the high fuel mark. That tube is in the tank, and some people have cut it shorter to allow more capacity, but it's not too often you'll overfill. Just know what your tank holds. In modern cars that tube is connected back to the filler neck to signal full when filling. What can I say, gas was cheap in the 70's and I guess Datsun didn't care about a little spilliage. There's a few threads about it on here, Search away..

Okay those past two posts weren't really answering your questions of a Spark when you touch the door with your key. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH YOUR CAR. It's you, and the dry weather. That's why when you fill up always touch metal BEFORE putting the nozzle to your tank. Look at it this way. Your car is a bubble, protected from everything electrically by the non-conductive rubber of your tires. Even though it has batteries gas and an engine, that's all INSIDE the metal bubble of your car. You yourself, are another bubble, protected by the rubber of your shoes. Now Dry air is more of an insulator so you don't bleed off charges. These charges get built up as air moves around and electrons rub off on EACH "bubble" (you, your car etc) Thus charging that bubble with a charge. When you touch the bubble with your keys, the two charges equalize or if you're wearing leather or no shoes and your body is grounded. The Bubble will equalize with the ground. The electrics of your car again have nothing to do with it. Even discharging yourself to another object pole or your same car, you're just equalizing charges. That's why you can spark on one side, then spark on the other, since as soon as you let go of your car you both start charging separately. If you change your shoes, you may have a different experience. Now to fix this, Wipe down your interior with a capful of Downey to a quart of water in a spray bottle, and add Downey to your clothes wash. Downey helps items from building up a charge That should minimize the static shocks. I hope that makes sense, if not I can draw you a picture. I even have crayons is that will make it easier.

I'm pretty sure you will need the Z31 harness because the Z31 uses a different type of fuel injection. (MAF Based). Why do you want to use the Z31 ECU? MegaSquirt has been proven to run the L28ET very well. If you're mainly looking for the JWT flash, then you're going to need to set it up like a Z31. Though the Tune still would need some tweaking. We'd be really interested in your experiences. Please write it up and add some pictures.

Well it's obvious you're not happy with your 240 now, since you're thinking of doing the swap. The L28 pulls pretty well without the turbo. Turbo, you'll have more power, but the exchange is less life (not really a factor if you take care of your engines and don't run too much boost.) You'll be much happier after upgrading to megasquirt as well. There are plenty of maps already setup for the L28ET. MS is not required. You can use the stock S130Turbo electronics and parts. There are plenty of diagrams on exactly what to hook up where to integrate the Turbo engine into your Z. If you have a local Z club, Ask if anyone has a Turbo Z or ZX and go for a ride. If you like it then go for it, If not then keep what you've got. Since you have the donor, you should have all the parts you need including the 5 speed.