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Pharaohabq

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Everything posted by Pharaohabq

  1. Pharaohabq
    Hmm wonder what happened with this project car. I remember when he first posted this. Any bets it's back in a storage unit? I'd love to see an update... Though this is a Z.....Zombie thread now!
  2. Pharaohabq
    Yeah MIG is really better because of the Heat, and the ease of welding large areas. Tig is awesome for finer detail and specialty metals like stainless and aluminum. You'll be great at making your exhaust if you're good with TIG. for stitching where you're stopping and starting many many times to keep the heat down you'll be much much happier with a MIG. You might want to talk with your instructor and see if you can get some body panels to practice on. it's really easy to burn through. If you can, use a sppon on the backside to help prevent that. Clocker had originally stated about Stitch welding the seams, I was talking about area re-enforcement.
  3. Pharaohabq
    That's quite true, You should probably look at getting the L28 running first so you can get user to the car and know what it's going to need, Brakes etc before looking too much into the swap. A lot of places will sell you the engine and engine harness, but you also need the dash harness along with the ECU/BCU for a VQ35DE to run. I'd really suggest you look at making the L28 go with maybe megasquirt or the OEM injection. I also mentioned that so far as drifting, you're going to need to look as some serious mods so, you really might want to look deeper into that, before heading down that road. It's likely going to be out of the budget you'd set forth. Not to mention Paint alone could possible blow that budget, depending on the quality. But if you do go VQ, I'll certainly try to help guide you along. Again though it'd probably be a good idea to try to get the L28 going so you can get to know your car better. The L28 is a pretty strong engine.
  4. Pharaohabq
    You're dropping for good $ on parts. I hope the body you have is as sound as you think it is. It's great that it's something you and your father get to work on together. It should be one of those treasured memories deals, and a car that's going to have special meaning for you. Clocker mentioned methods of reinforcement that doesn't include a cage. I Agree, in that I've seen some really nice builds where people have not only stitch welded all the seams, but they took panels from other cars and cut out corners and sections and welded those over the same portions at various locations, at some points 3-4 layers of metal to re-enforce the frame to effectively stiffen the chassis without having a bulky cage. The advantage there too is that many of the body interior panels could then be modded to fit as though there were no modifications in place. Note that I'm not talking full panel replacement, I'm talking 3-4" wide strips that are welded over the existing panels to make something of a integrated cage. A hoop could be integrated at the area across the top of the hatch which should be back far enough to prevent your head from contact. The focus would be in retaining the stock look and stiffening rather than directly safety. Multiple layers up around the "B" pillar may not be a bad idea from the chassis intrusion perspective. Though an integrated Door bar as seen in newer cars may be an idea. This would in no way be SCCA or any way certifiable, but it could certainly stiffen things up a bit. Especially if you integrated those Bad Dog Rails. it would not preclude you from putting in a certifiable cage either.
  5. Pharaohabq
    that looks pretty cool. Just the funky difference that it says NAPS Computer System on it is awesome! They must be pretty rare for an L28, being that I've NEVER seen one before. Of course Wiki-D not only has, but has even used one says a lot. Having read a little about it, it stands for Nissan Anti-Pollution-System. It's a JDM system, though It would be interesting to figure if you actually get any performance increase or hit with it. It's certainly something that people are going to ask about when you open your hood.
  6. Pharaohabq
    LED lighting is nice, but on a per light basis, the HID lights still outperform. We're talking actual lumins. Both get hot too. I've played with some large LED arrays and yet they're really bright, but the light doesn't go so far as you'd expect. We did this to try to upgrade an old projector. with a 3"x3" LED panel we could barely see the projected image at 30 ft, where the original projector bulb looked great at that distance. though both the original and the 3x3 were both rated in the 3K lumins range. the big difference we suspect is that the LED's are diffused light. The original bulb used a reflector to help direct all the light through the lens. the LED, we think was wasting a lot shining off to the sides. it's hard to say. The new automotive LED's like on the new Cherokee might be a possibility, but I'm not holding my breath. It's also a matter of cost. On Ebay I can get HID bulbs and Ballast kits for really cheap. So then it's just printing up a workable housing and getting the lenses for it. It might be easiest to take the lenses from another car and integrate them. I'm thinking if we can print up a nice looking light, that handles both high and low beams w/o melting it might be pretty awesome. We'd still have to get a plastic/glass cover to keep the weather out. When I get further on it I'll start a thread. Right now it's a kicking around the design stage idea.
  7. Pharaohabq
    Yeah, there's still some of us here. I've been talking about making parts in the s30 forum since there's much more traffic there. Techno550, What equipment do you have? I've got a Prusa i2 and an i3. The pyrex lenses are likely pie in the sky since the startup costs are so high. I need to talk to a local glass blowing club and see what ideas they have. glass is cheap, but getting setup for it is not. I've also started working on a design for HID headlights, that could be 3D printed to plug into the round sugarscoops on an S30. I'm looking at various styles but the idea is to use the Sugar scoops and seal them with a plastic lens and seal around the outside with black ABS goop, for a watertight headlight.
  8. Pharaohabq
    Hmm I could probably design and print up a new mounting for you. Shouldn't be too hard to do at all. As for replacement mirrors, you might consider a Mitsub eclipse mirror, it's the same size but have lights etc included. Let me know if you want to look into me making you a new mount.
  9. Pharaohabq
    I believe that was the consensus of this thread. All the mods in the world won't do any good if you drive like a zombie... thanks for reading it though, it's always good to have people thinking about safety.
  10. Pharaohabq
    Pretty nice, I really dig it. I've been wondering though, What's the 2 Liter coke bottle for in the engine compartment? Some type of Water injection?
  11. Pharaohabq
    Well it's a 72' So there's not so many of them as there are 75-78's, but still a few around. Certainly you should be able to get your $ out of it, but it'd be unfortunate to see a good car scrapped. It's your car though, Do what you will with it. Though if you would throw $20 bucks to this site, you could part it out on here in the "For Sale/Wanted" and I know I'd buy some specific parts. Title issues are always a pain. Did you ask Louisiana DMV what they need to make the title work? A lot of time it's just more paperwork and maybe another fee if your Bonded Title is legal. Here in NM you'd have to get VIN inspection and such, but it's not so big a deal. Might as well ask the DMV if there's anything you can do. They may want more paperwork from Mississippi, which the DMV there hopefully could mail you. Phar
  12. Pharaohabq
    Well the Console center piece is a little larger than my 3d printer can handle. But there are companies with larger printers that could print it for a price. The fun part is actually modeling the part. that's usually more expensive than the printing. Concievably yes I could model it. But would it be worth it? There are still a lot of OEM center's available. It's only if we were going to Mod the console that it could be really worth the hours it would take to model it, and be able to sell enough to cover the time. Print time in a larger piece could run into many hours too. What are you thinking? Why are you wanting a new center console? Phar
  13. Pharaohabq
    Vacuum forming is an entirely different setup. You might be best off taking an OEM center and forming over it. I'm not entirely sure of the process, but it's a bit different than straight up 3d printing.
  14. Pharaohabq
    Well I finally had some time to get to work on this. I took my NOS light I was saving apart and pulled out the lens. I was amazed that even though this was in a box for the past 35 years and in the plastic, that the lens was kind of spiderweb'd with cracks in it. Kind of annoying, but in anycase, my original is still intact for It was easy to get measurements. I recreated the lens in Creo and made some adjustments. For 3d printing ease I made the face flat rather than rounded and bevelled the edge. this worked well. I Printed it out in White and here's the product: Reproduction on the left, OEM on the right. The top + assembled: A close up: you can see the diagonal gridding of the print, which actually adds a lot of strength. The lens face is only 1.5mm thick. I connected it to a power supply with an LED dome lamp: If anyone needs one of these, please let me know. I'll sell em cheap. Just PM me. Thanks... If anyone else has any ideas for things that would be nice to reproduce for these cars, please let me know. I'll be happy to work on it if it's something that's printable. Phar
  15. Pharaohabq
    Hey if you can get a good VQ35 + tranny for $1000, that's be great, but that needs to include more than just the engine. If you read my primer, you'll see you need the harnesses, ECU, BCU and NATS (key and sensor ring) along with the Main body(dash) and engine harnesses at the minimum. The NATS delete is about $1000 bucks, so it's cheaper to just get the BCU etc from the donor car. If you can't weld, or your mod skills aren't so good, then you're going to have to use outside help for the Mounts. (McKinney sells a VQ mount kit incl tranny mounts for about $650) Separate from that, there's misc components like hoses and belts which you'll need. so you can't discount that. Astro said Camshaft, I believe he meant Driveshaft, which you'll need to have fabbed using a stock VQ yoke. Additionally you'll need to buy or make a shifter relocator for the gear shift handle. Unless you go with the Auto/manual tranny, which is a drive by wire, but you'll need the tranny harness too. As I said in my Primer, the best way to do it is to buy the whole donor car and pull parts as are needed, rather than trying to find piecemeal. That and fine the FSM's for BOTH donor and target Cars, so you know what goes where. If you're not familiar with the systems, then you shouldn't even start the project. It's easy to mess things up if you start in the middle. I will try to help you as best as I can and try to help you stay in your budget, but you need to tell us what you want to do. Phar
  16. Pharaohabq
    Well if that's the case, Make him an offer. He might just sell it anyway. Show him cash! that's always a great motivator.
  17. Pharaohabq
    Not really surprising. That was a great deal. There's a lot of cool factor, not to mention rarer model you don't often see in the states. One likely to appreciate with some TLC. Oh well Keep looking, Oh and don't go for those RX7's unless you know a really good rotary engine mechanic. The Turbos have a tendency to blow seals on the 12A engines. The 13B's were better, but eventually you'd have to have it rebuilt every 60-80K miles. just the nature of RX-7's that, and clutches, wow, I went through a lot of clutches... it was the high RPM difference. I loved the cares tho, my favorite was my 83 gsle, in chateau silver.. As for Datsuns, Keep looking, something else will come up.
  18. Pharaohabq
    yeah, DL the FSM, it'll tell you not only where those wires are supposed to go, but also which fusible links you should use. It's pretty easy to change those to the Maxi-fuse Blade fuse holders. Your block has been disconnected and is missing a fusible link. To get it running you can install a 30A blade type fuse temporarily across each pair of wires. But don't connect the wrong ones together or you're likely to smoke your harness. Fuses are meant to protect your wiring. Fusible inks are like large fuses. I think they're usually 30A or 40A. The FSM has the right ratings.
  19. Pharaohabq
    Aluminide is aluminized plastic. Go to shapeways.com and look at their materials list, they describe it pretty well there. When I printed my Emblem for the side of the 240Z, it looked like it came out pretty well. The dimensions matched pretty well with my original part. I have yet to paint the plastic though. Full Aluminum printing I'd wonder about, but if you were casting, then yes you'd have to account for shrinkage. If you added 20% to your cad model then made the mould it may come out about right. I want to do some aluminum casting. I've been saving cans, and I guess you can do it with Cement crucibles and map gas. though a real forge would be best and using real casting sand. in comparison, plastic parts are much easier.
  20. Pharaohabq
    You might read and have him read the threads on "Making a Z safer" There was a lot of discussion on that, about how to limit body motion and impact inside of the car. That is using crushable door bolsters and preventing your body from flying around during an accident. Think of your body in the car sort of like your brain in a concussion. You don't want the inside of the skull to damage the brain (your body) so good seats and body acceleration prevention. Also updating things like the brakes and seatbelts are all good suggestions. In the end though we noted that driver attention and reaction are the #1 ways of preventing injury. Aside from that it's knowing how your car works and what it's capable of. There was the vehicle intrusion issue which was never really addressed, but broadside hits are always going to be an issue even in modern cars. Read up on it and ask questions, maybe we can get it answered.
  21. Pharaohabq
    Pretty Cool Mark, it's awesome to see the fabbed parts. nice job on the moulds too. Is your suspension going to hit that defuser on the down travel? It doesn't look like it would hit much, but may be possible. Though your car is still off it's wheels so that's probably fine. As for the Engine management. I'd still go with the BCU/ECU/NATSKEY combo. You'd have to have the BCU mated to your ECU with Consult3 but it shouldn't be a big deal. That's really 90% of making it run. Uprev removes that and hacks the harnesses together so you don't need the BCU, but then you can't pull info from the ECU w/o using other software/laptop whereas with the BCU you can use the AC amp and get things like temp and such through the OEM interface, but You're going to be pretty far from that. The other idea though, is if you do use NATS then you can use the stock key and security system, which is better than nothing. Not that I think you're going to be particularly worried about that. You're going to have a bit of tuning to go through anyway with the turbos and all so it might be a moot point. it's wether you want to spend the extra $ to remove a pound or so of weight and some functionality from your car. Personally, I'm keeping as much of the oem wiring as possible, for function rather than weight. This was I can use a lot of the 350Z systems such as cruise, power windows, gauges, interval wipers, heated seats etc. My focus is a bit different than yours though. Phar
  22. Pharaohabq
    Well first go read my primer on the VQ swaps here in this V6 Forum, there's a lot of questions that it'll answer for you. Then like Manny said really think about the budget. It can be done for $3-4K but that will be tight. If you're going with a VQ, then why not take the 6 speed tranny with it. The Stock Datsun 5 speed, though, nice will not mate the VQ in any way. Though you may be able to have an adapter built, but why? Just take the 6 speed. $3-4K probably won't include any tuning or NATS removal services. So you'll need the BCU from the same car along with the Harnesses. The McKinney mounts are probably your best bet. Read about drifting an S30, There's a lot to but it's mostly skill. The lack of steering radius is the biggest issue with drifting. Some people cut and fab the suspensions out of an S13. but that blows your budget right there.
  23. Pharaohabq
    another possibility is to get a spring and wind it around the hose. I'm not talking anything really stiff, just enough to keep it from kinking. You can even make one by wrapping a clothes hanger around a dowel or even the handle of your oem jack.. But you already ordered some so good luck.
  24. Pharaohabq
    You're saying that Napa or Autozone or any other parts house doesn't have any 7/16th EFI hose in stock?? You may be able to order it online and have it sent to you. I think you can even buy it on Ebay. In anycase, EFI hose should be plenty stiff for use in a Carb'd vehicle.
  25. Pharaohabq
    That's great... Not sure I want to see the bulb, but it would certainly be brighter. I haven't got to start the Dome light project yet anyway. I'm still making the 240Z horn pad repair rings.
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