Pharaohabq

I can't believe I wrote this nearly 5 years ago. There's a few things to update. AEM and Haltech both support this engine and have profiles for it. McKinney I believe still makes a decent mounting kit. and I'd highly recommend running an external fuel pump/filter. My car is still torn down for paint, and I hope to get that done this summer. Kidlet has taken most of my spare time, so I'm moving slowly. Feel free to ask me VQ questions. I still lurk around here often even if I don't get to post so often. If you find this thread helpful, please let me know. Thanks, Phar

NATS antenna... it reads the key to match it with what's programmed in the BCU. $500 bucks for your whole donor???? !!!!!!! Wow crap! you don't want to know what I spent for parts a few years ago. MiloZ We don't want to threadjack, Any updates?

Yeah, so far as I've been able to figure the Auto relies on the speed sensors on the Diff so you'll need that and or a Hall effect on the driveshaft, though with an RT mount you should be able to use the 350Z diff. (I think it's an LSD too, if it's from the touring) It's an R200 shortnosed. One advantage to having the speed sensor, and using stock ECU is that you can enable the cruise control.

Thank you for all the interest in these Horn rings. I am still making them, but just PM me if you need one. That being said, is there any other Z parts that we should look into making that are NLA or hard to find? I'm happy to look into new designs. Thanks Phar

I'd check compression, pull the valve cover and the little window cover on the front and look at the chain wear. If you can look in and spot the chain tensioner, and it's not worn, then likely you don't have to touch the engine. These things last forever, usually it's the EFI cold start/thermotime failure that makes people think it's busted. Mega-squirt can solve all that. Sucks about the snapped bolts. That's a pain, but once you remove the intake, the exhaust is much easier, as is replacing those studs. I'd definitely recommend some PB blaster or liquid wrench before getting back in there. an Impact wrench will make short work of most of that, I love my dewalt electric 20v impact. Good luck, Phar

Uh really sounds like a fuse blew to me. Check your fusebox. then check the fusible links. You can pull the hazard from the console and test with it. though I have found cold solder joints on the Hazard switch a couple different times. That makes for some fun troubleshooting. Phar

Good to hear. I was going to say that, on the Cam timing there's 3 tabs that allow for chain stretch, if that was set wrong too, it could be affecting where your timing lines up for the distributor, butt I don't know that it would be as much as you saw (30 degrees). Being a tooth off on the Dist is pretty easy since you have to kind of "twist" it in to get it to seat at the right timing point... Sounds like you have a good engine, was it originally from a turbo car? Are you doing the Mega-squirt yourself, or using a kit? phar

I think Globerunner513 is onto it. That's the first thing I'd have checked. Most of the systems run through those fusible links. When I've blown one it was like a complete systems failure. No starty, headlights acted funny. all the fuses were still good, but the fusible links burn slowly so momentary high amp draws will heat, but not burn one. A little longer draws will burn it. I'd check those and then keep looking.

The injectors open by grounding each one at the needed interval. Perhaps you have a bad or iffy ground on the engine/harness. Noise in the lines? Do you have access to an ocilliscope?

Well the "cups" are supposed to be compatible witht he 280zx cups, just the shafts need to be sized properly... Supposed toand work with are two different things though. I am going to use the LSD R200 though so I'll have to figure something.

Hi Astro... I am keeping NATS to make it harder to steal the car. Nats is the antenna ring around the key slot, and the BCU and ECU all run through the dash harness (body harnesss #1) along with the A-Amp that runs the tach gauges etc. I'm swapping in the 350z steering column, and it's mostly bolt in with a bracket under the dash and a spare steering Ujoint. (gives me the 350z/G35 steering wheel too with the cruise buttons.) Nats is no big deal if you have the original BCU and ECU from the donor car. (or a paired set) you can get a new key programmed from the original Vin# of the donor too. I hope to get mine running this summer, now that my daughter is older. I had pulled everything to go for paint, but I've been tempted to just get it going then paint later. I drove my buddie's 240z last week, now I'm jones'n for an S30 fix... Let me know what questions you have. Phar (Eric)

No, it should be fine as there's no kickdown to trigger the engine to cut down RPM so it should behave normally, though likely we will get CELs. My VQ35HR is from an Auto and it's now mated to a CD0009 6speed. Bolted right up. I've been playing with the idea to cut out my DIY engine mounts in favor of the Mckinney stuff. I need to get real headers tho, Stock points right at the firewall.

That's looking pretty amazing! Can you tell me more about the CV axles you said you found? I'm looking to use a 350Z LSD in my swap. Phar

Hi Astroboy... Well not exactly, we had a kid so that's slowed thing up quite a bit. The swap is still "in process" but I've been adding to the build here and there. I have picked up a lot more 350Z parts like an LSD and leather seats and such. Hopefully this spring I'll get back into things since my girl doesn't require 24/7 attention anymore. I'm happy to chat about any of it though. Phar

The low Vin is just a number, it doesn't add much to the value, but as said it is a 260z vin, which restarted the count in numbers of vehicles. If the car needs a new read fender, then that's going to be a cut and splice deal. Not too big a deal, but yes requires welding. you don't need to hammer and reform of you have a donor. Rock Auto or Tabco, sells most of these panels. The Vin number will add a little to the value for the right person. but again it's just finding that person who is willing to pay a premium for a number. If you could research and find out history on the car, that'd be worth a lot more. otherwise it's just a car.

Are the springs in right side up, and is that height difference with someone in the seat?

hehe I'm sure most of these are taken where you are, but: IH82BL8 MYTEETZ SMOGZEE DEADZED

I know this is a really old thread, but I did want to state that the cooler thermostat did handle most of my heat soak issues, but if I drive a while and then park, then try to go again, it's a bit harder to start. It's nowhere as bad as it used to be. I might try the webbed manifold if I can find one. If not I might try zip tying a plate under my intake to see if that'll fix it.

Just Store it. The trailer is a good investment. One important thing tho is to drain the gas, Start it and run it dry. Stabil or seafoam in it beforehand and hopefully it'll keep. pull the battery, no sense in letting it leak inside the car. I've had to muck out fuel lines a few times and it's a sucky job. Ideally drop the tank and make sure it's empty so it won't rust. 5 years the value of these things will be higher, there's so many dropping out of circulation already. I'd pull the plugs and spray down the cylinders with WD40 then put back in the plugs. Put it on blocks in the trailer and strap it down well. You should come back to a pretty well preserved car. Car cover inside the trailer too, just for the wow surprise when you get to see her again. I'm sure there's some storage ideas that I'm missing so you might search a bit on long term car storage. When you come back, likely you're going to need a bit of maintenance, tires probably, Battery, Fluids, if all goes well you should come back to a gem. Thank you for serving. Phar

153624... Point your crank at 0 degrees, and then pull the cap. it should be pointing at Cyl # 1. Pull off the oil cap, and you should be able to look in with a flashlight and see the lobes on Cyl 1 both pointing up. That's TDC for Cyl 1, then replace wires in the firing order and it should start right up. it's not brain surgery.

Outside looks bad, but it's not that bad at first glance. Needs a lot of TLC. the interior looks pretty good. That dash it in great shape, unless it's just a cap. Stripped, rust sealed and painted it'd be worth a bit, especially if it runs. 96'? Yeah, dunno about that, but I've resurrected older...

FIt n Finish is awesome... I almost had to move to Austin, your car was one of the draws, fortunately I got a job here, so I'll just have to see it when I make it out sometime. It's awesome to see you're so close on it. Phar

Ouch! Karotta!@ What's the damage buddy? It doesn't look good, it looks like a fuel rail or line spray. I'm sure it's not a total loss, but it's not fun to fix. Sorry there was an issue. It looks like it was performing awesome until that point. The Handle you pulled was what? it looked like it failed whatever it was... Phar

It's the hazard switch. Rebuild/resoldier all the connections to the hazard switch, for some reason they ran all the blinkers through the hazard switch, so when you have a bad connection it chokes the whole system. I've seen this on multiple S30's. You can test this by using a set of alligator clips and jumping the connections according to the FSM and you'll see your blinkers will behave.. See Namor's above... Phar

Very Cool... I wonder if they really have it. Did you image search it in Chrome? maybe it's legit? It's awesome it's still in one piece.