Pharaohabq

hmm still unavailible from MSA... Didn't see it on their catalogue anyway.

I read a little about the slippage notation in the 350z system. it seems if any two opposing wheels turn more than 45 degrees, apart from it's opposite wheel, it'll flag a slip and the system would try to compensate. Running these all off the same Hall rotor, it shouldn't be a problem. The 350z system apparently does NOT track changes between front and rear wheel speeds. I guess Nissan expects people to peel out now and then Phar

Little more update, Looking around I found a "good" used flywheel/clutch/disc for $50, it's not new, but was swapped for an aluminum setup so it should still be good. We'll see when we get it installed. Next, I'm looking for MAF's, but those can wait till later. I've been looking into Fuel pump ideas. I don't think the Stock 280z pump could supply the kind of pressure the VQ will need, so I'd like to use a Stock 350Z pump, but that would mean swapping my gas tank. I'm going to do some mesurments and see what other Vehicle tanks could fit. If I could fit a 350Z tank that would be ideal, but I doubt I'm that lucky, maybe a G35 tank. I'll look around. The advantage of using a stock tank is that the sender would function, and I wouldn't need a surge tank. Phar

Yeah I've been thinking about mufflers for my VQ swap. I don't want the car to be real loud, I like quiet, I like to hear my radio over the engine noise. I know I'm asking a lot since even the 350Z's are loud, but I know it can be quiet because the G35's are. I don't think I can go dual exhaust without major gas tank mods, so it's kinda hard to figure. I'm thinking I'll use either 2.5" or better 3" pipe, stock cats, a mid pipe muffler, or glasspacks, then a decent rear muffler. I guess we'll see when I get there. I guess I like low meaty grunt rather than high toned ricey whine. Phar

It does depend a lot of the car and condition. Like Dirtking was saying you've just gotta look aroud for a deal. If you think yours for $5K is worth it, then buy it. If not then keep looking. it's your decision. Less rust the better tho. Phar

So, I hope you'll post those picts before you buy it. $5K is a lot for a Z unless it's in really good shape. but hey maybe you're onto a really good deal. just remember though if there's some rust, likely there's a lot more you can't see. $5K I'd expect a lot, like perfect dash, seats and vinyl. low miles and well running engine. Rust really puts me off, so you'd need to decide how much to expect, and what you can tolerate. It would be a very good idea to put it up on a rack and have the underside inspected for rust, leaks and any other problems. I wouldn't worry much about the timing belt, the Belt is a Chain, and though it's supposed to be changed every 60K miles, I've seen them last well over 120K miles. though over time they do stretch and can cause less efficient running. I would suggest you read through all the threads you can find about rust and remediation before you buy the Z. since likely there's a lot of hidden rust, you don't know about. Phar

Okay quick update. I've got almost everything for the swap now. I just bought a set of 07 harnesses all from the same car so that should fix my main harness problem since the one that came w/ the engine was from an 03-05. those should be here next week. I'll start a new thread when it comes to the build. This is for parts, gathering.. Oh I still need an HR clutch, new they're like 400 bucks, damn,... Sucks, but maybe I can find one somewhere. gotta call more junk yards. I wonder if i swap in a DE flywheel if i can make it work with the hr actuator? phar

there was a guy on my350z selling an 08 HR setup, I think for about $2500, you want to get things as complete as possible. Read through the threads on the engine swaps. I would have happily spent the $2500 for the complete setup rather than my searching for HR parts for such a long time. but I'm into this one already. DE parts are a lot more plentiful and there's a lot more after market support for the DE engines. though Eventually the HR engines will get some love. oh here's the guy http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145029&highlight=vq35hr Phar

yeah, I'd been wondering too, Hadn't heard anything new in a month either. There's nothing new on their site either. though they might just be working on the cars rather than playing on the computer. They could be on vacation too... I'm sure they wouldn't just drop the projects. Justin's going to need something to drive through the rest of high school.

OKay, I know this is reviving a dead thread, but I used the search function to find it so don't post any mummy pictures... Looking at the Z33 VLSD, What all do you think we'd have to do to put one in a 78' 280Z? Is it possible the carrier would fit, if not the whole diff? The output flanges look different so I guess some alternate axles would be needed? What do you think? Phar

Hey I'm glad they're going to take care of you. Totalling it and buying is back would give you a salvage title. I think you're doing the right thing, getting new estimates. Crown should take good care of you, but it"s really up to you who you take it to to have it fixed.. it would be cool if you could get the repair shop to take some picts of the repair process. Eric

I've always liked my Dunlops. very sticky, lasts long time in NM heat. Oh and the SportMax's are nice because you can use them with either 4 or 5 lug hubs, so if I swap to 5 lug, I won't have to buy new Wheels.

It's the Vacuum Reservoir. Basically it holds a little vacuum so that the car can actuate some of the larger vauum solenoids.

hehe I think I'd pay more attention to the steering wheel rather than the door... Really though, You can of course check all the bolts that hold the door on itself. But only tighten and/or loosen one bolt at a time since they also help with the door alignment. Likely the rattling is actually something inside the door. The Latch, or the window mech, or maybe a speaker. There could also be old glass in there if the window was ever broken. It's really hard to say much more unless you post us some pictures.

so was the 2x driver side a problem? I kinda doubt it would be.. I bought the MSA Kit too. Phar

I say BUY IT! it's in definitely good enough shape for that, even non, running. Tell you what, you buy it and I'll buy the bumpers off you for $250. there, you get free car and I get 240z bumpers.. win/win.. Phar

YEah, VIN Removal BAD!, Title goes with the chasis not the dash, unless you want to be an accessory to grand theft auto. Thanks for the wheels.

Carbon buildup is likely because of it running rich. I think your compression #'s were off or at least it's not the rings because if it were you'd be getting oily plugs. A good Haynes manual will also tell you how to rebuild those carbs.

I would be real careful lighting anything... I'm sure he's talking about lighting the oil on your dipstick. no the metal one silly... Anyway yeah the gasket idea sounds plausible.

That is very interresting. IT'd be nice to know what happened to the last PZ. Is that Socal Carbon, making a kit? I imagine it would be interresting to know who would own the moulds then. The PZ's really were ahead of their time. I imagine it would cost a lot more to make them today, than they cost to make in the Apt parking lot. ANyone got details on the missing PZ? Vin? last known owner?

Hmm, That wire could be for an aftermarket alarm. I've seen some wiring like that. you could disconnect it and see if your Batt light stays on. If it does, then it's not that, and you might reconnect it. Separately, check all your ground connections. If you're getting stumbling, that could do it. but it's most likely a vaccuum leak somewhere. Phar

Okay, I was looking around and I saw this: You'll note the rear Wheel sensors are on the diff, on this 350z AT. If I count right there's about 48 teeth on that wheel. You can see these are also Alum teeth, so that would tell me it's a hall effect reader. though I had another Nissan tech tell me the signal was +5v to ground. So I'd assume the front wheels have a similar # of teeth. This is good, since if I was going to drive these sensors off the driveshaft I'd only need a 15 or 16 tooth wheel. (48/3.3 gear ratio) I still may need to build a box to multiplex the lines, but now I at least know how these sensors are read. A box would allow me to fine tune what the ABS Pump, AC AMP & BCM read for the Speedo. on the down side, I need to find a new HR Speedo cluster, I think I broke mine... Phar

hehe Well Welcome back, and hello from Albuquerque NM... You might look in all the Usual Suspects areas for rust. if you have some, it's a good bet there's more. hopefully it'll all be surface and easy to remedy. Before you get discouraged again, there's nothing you can't fix with the following Money Work Time You can pick any two. that is unless you have A LOT of the first. It sounds like you know your way around a Z pretty good, so just let us know if you have any questions, or are looking for a better way to do something. Oh and you might look into Classic car/stated value insurance. it's often cheaper and better coverage than standard on these cars. Phar