Pharaohabq

I don't really know, I imagine it would have something to do with how the lower valience is setup on the 260/240Z's they have the low round turn signal lights. it could also have something to do with the bumper mounts, since the 280z has the heavier shocks and bumpers. I bet it could be made to fit though, anything can, how well just depends on you. Phar

Let us know as soon as they're availiable. As for the reproduction idea, I would never reproduce anything w/o permission or if unless the OEM was no longer able/willing to produce a product. I believe 95% of the hybrid'ers out there feel the same way. The interest in a group buy to get you going again shows that. Let us know if we can help. How much do you think these new run production vents might cost? (I know it's subject to change since you're looking for a new production house.) Phar

Awesome! Nice to hear about someone else doing an HR install. I couldn't load your page tho IE7. maybe a Java problem, I dunno. I'll keep trying. Phar

Oh yeah, I saw that. Pict#4. Why didn't I think... Maybe it would be possible to put it where the old PS pump would be. I dunno if there would be any furthor room there either. because of the exhaust. Other possibility is maybe a front mount AC pump I've seem some people do that with their V8 installs. looks kinda funny tho. Perhaps a AC unit from a different car? I wonder how hard an electric compressor would be to use. Maybe I'll have to take apart a little wall unit and see what the guts look like. that darn steering rod.. hmm maybe if we made something like how myron did his, but perhaps tucked closer to the framerail, or perhaps in the frame rail? I dunno. I've got a lot to do before I get to that point. Phar

how about using something like this: http://www.emxinc.com/blueguard.html and a push button starter. the bluetooth would work on your phone or other bluetooth device to lock-out people, but when your phone or paired device was within range you could unlock, and start the car. all w/o a key. maybe??

well good luck. hopefully, you won't have an issue.

I've been thinking about AC. it'd be really nice to move a AC system from a 350Z to an S30. I need to get mine done first before I see if an AC pump would even fit. you're in a lot more humid area so w/o AC I bet you're suffering. I doubt the mass of the AC flywheel would really noticably hurt your engine torque. Is there room in your engine compartment? Phar

Okay, well I got my MAF's for ~45 ea x2. so that's not bad. Most nissan 03+ used the same MAFS. I also got the downstream O2 sensors for $15. along with a spare BCM. I also got both fuse boxes, the inside one and the IPCM. those I especially lucked out to get cheap. So pretty much I'm ready to start the install since I now have about everything I need. Oh... I nave to go to Nissan and buy the Tranny bolts($12) and the shifter bolts since Austin's adapter doesn't come with any, and my tranny didn't have any. I need to go buy some 1/8 or 3/16 wall box tubing to build my engine crossmember/mounts. Phar

Well, look at my thread here: VQ35HR??. You'll see I'm doing things piecemeal.. Really NOT reccommended. but I have time... If I was doing it over I'd be looking for a single car to tear everything out of, it would be a lot more expensive initially, but MUCH less headache and eventual cost for finding all the parts. I'm still totally for now under $3 grand but from a single car, you could probably get a setup for about $3500 to $4000 for an HR engine/harnesses and all the sensors etc. Finding them isn't the easy part though. Being a recent engine there's just not that many around. What I can tell you though is that if you're patient you CAN find deals. my engine itself, I paid $900 for total. but I still need a starter... MAF's it takes 2, I just got for 45/ea when they're usually 75-80 used. so there's deals out there. but getting it all at once saves a lot of headache, but takes out 99% of the guesswork. I'm still wondering if I have the right harnesses. or if my ECU will work. stuff like that. so save the trouble and just get one as complete as possible. You're in NY so there's a higher chance a junk yard would have a VQ for you, at a decent price. around here everything that gets wreaked gets shipped out to the coasts to be sold for higher $... Phar

ugh! never got the title from the car lot. That's going to suck. What I was reading is that he's got 30 days to file a missing title(lost in mail) from when he bought the car... Is the Car lot still in biz? If so he should be able to go back and ask then for either the title or for a new bill of sale which would then be used to have the title re-issued to him. Is the car Registered to him? If it's still in the preivious owners (prior to the dealer's name) then he could have trouble. It's a crappy situation, I hate the DMV too. though sometimes those DMV contractors like DMV express and such can help. though often they're more expensive. (tons less lines tho) It definitely sounds like a nightmare. Back to this OP thread tho. The rusty Z is at the lot still right? It might be an idea to try the mechanic's lien for storage fees, it'll take 30-90 days, but you should be able to get a title. unless the original owner protests, but they they'd have to pay the storage fees.. 10/day x 90 days = $900 bucks. + filing costs. So don't ever leave your car at a shop too long at least you're on the shop side... Phar

you might check your Cowel area to reseal that. that's usually where the leaks come in rather than actually at the windshield. just take loose the cowel, and clean and reseal with good black RTV sealer. the make sure the drain tubes are clear of crud, and you should be all good for not leaking... Phar

wow, yeah, I was looking at red for mine too, and seeing yours I'm pretty convinced. What Color # did you choose? that one looks pretty darn sweet. Phar

Ouch, yeah you'd definitely need new floor pans and rails. MSA has a kit for ~$350. See all those holes, you can bet the metal is just tin foil there. Being that the rest of your Z doesn't have much rust (engine bay, battery, and rear) I would expect the damage is from leaking cowl area seal. You would need to cut out and weld in the new frame rail and floorpans. that is unless you're a really big Flintstones fan. hehe got tongs? You might look on here for the list of seats that will fit, the RX8 seats look awesome. Yeah, just replace them, you can get some off Ebay for like 10-15 bucks each, if not cheaper at a JY. Lights looks fine, but that bondo will all have to be sanded off and redone to shave that rear. If they'd primered before letting it sit in the rain it might not be an issue, but I wouldn't trust it with the exterior rust.. The rear deck looks nice, no rust that's a +! Yeah cooling hose is the heater pipe, hose = $5 at Autozone. Carbs are the SU carbs, they're the better kind that people like. might need to rebuild them, easy to do, tho messy since they're filled with oil. Okay, that rear fender is the hardest part of the fix, you'd need to get a replacement panel, and weld that in. hopefully the rust isnt too bad underneath, MSA sells the outter panel for $75, and the inner for $100, if you need it. If you've got a line on a much better condition Z for $600, I'd definitely recommend you start with a more solid body. This one can be fixed, it would take time, skill and $. Fixing classics is NOT a cheap endeavor, nor is it fast. It's a labor of love. If you save one like you have, you'll be proud of the accomplishment, not to mention the investment of money sweat and blood you'll put into it. Trust me, you will bleed fixing cars, everyone does. If you decide to part it, the most valueable parts will be things like your dash, carbs, lights and interior panels, tho those all together, you might be lucky to get $600 for. If you keep it, you can get a lot of parts on here and on Ebay. Thats my 2 cents. it's up to you to decide how much work you'll want to do. Phar

That's a pretty cool setup you've found. My dad made one like that for my brother's 260Z years ago, but he used 3" iron pipe fittings to connect things. Worked, cept it would pool gas in the bottom. I would try yours with the standard fuel pump and see what it can do. if you end up choking out too lean on higher RPM, then you might want to upgrade, but I think you'll be fine with stock. Phar

Did they say Why they would not issue a duplicate title, if he's the owner? He should have been able to file this: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/motor/titles/needed/mutilated.asp and have a new title issued. This from the DMV website: You can title a 1963-1985 model car if you have a title already in your name, or if the title has been assigned to you. If the title is registered in someone else's name, a new title will not be issued. Cars built in 1962 and before do not require a title. All cars built after 1986 require one. So if the owner isn't the owner they wouldn't give a title. But, I dunno, maybe this is a dead horse.

yeah, maybe you were harsh, but whatever, this is the internet. ... no worries, but don't be so sure it can't be done. Anyway, here's a link to the mechanic's lien section of the GA code. It provides guidelines for filing and forclosure of a mechanics lien. http://www.lexis-nexis.com/hottopics/gacode/default.asp Search "Mechanic's lien". or http://www.woodandmeredith.com/realestate/mechanics_lien.html#who Filing a form similar to this: http://www.megadox.com/docpreviews/7975.pdf So Mechanics liens are provided for in GA. I'm sure the DMV could guide in the filing if not a lawyer.. But at this point, is it worth it? it might be easier to take the VIN to the DMV, pay your $15 and get the owner's name, track them down and ask them to either sign a bill of sale, or to pay you for storage, and come get the car. Maybe you can offer to buy it from them. $50 bucks - if they have the title. Separately, it may be possible to get a duplicate title issued, but likely that would include getting a VIN inspection and likely you'd need a bill of sale. Any record of the original owner? Phar

Heh it might be nice to be able to open the rear "sunroof" for ventilation! that aside, I think it looks like crap. I hate painted tail-lights. can you say ghetto? Not to mention the rims. You know they just opened a "rent-a-center" type tire shop here that rents 22"'s so "you ain't gotta be a dealer to ride stylin'" Seriously, I'm not kidding, that's their ad.

still looks good, Sorta reminds me of an early dodge charger. maybe try those lenses... So any update? It's been a year...

The Early RX-7 tailights look kinda liek the Mura lights... But I'd vot that you just move the stock lights out along with the body widening, then glass in the gaps between the stock panels.. Maybe swap over to 240Z lights. Phar

exactly... though he hasn't said how many people he'd need for a production run. I would bet he's also worried about accidentally giving away his design to whomever makes the moulds. If I could borrow a pair I could probably make a mould to recreate, but being that he's still interrested in finding a production house I wouldn't want to step on any toes... that being said, I bet Klearz.com could make them. They made my Taillights, but they're not cheap. and I think they might want to keep the mould. Phar

The Reaction Research Vents are nothing like the ones Mister Z. has on his car, and what I want.... Group buy Group buy....

Wel since it's been sitting, you can apply a lien on it, and after 30-90 days get a title. You can charge I think up to $30 a day storage (you'll need to know the rules in GA on this) but after so many days, you just go down with your Mechanics Lien and get a title. it'll cost about 35 bucks. You'll have to certify it hasn't been driven too. easy peasy. esp since you guys own the shop it's been sitting at. (they can take that storage "loss" off their taxes too since it took up usable space.

hey there. The 76 is likely a 280Z if I have my dates correct. you can really tell by looking at the front blinkers. If they're round and low then it's a 260/240, but then the date is wrong, and if they're square and in the grille, it's a 280Z. If the rust isn't too bad, and it runs it could be worth $1500, but it depends on how common they are in your area. I bought my near rust free 280 for $300. but the engine, no workee. Mostly you you be looking at the frame rails and the floorpans for rust. if it's bubbling, then $1500 is probably not a good deal, a little surface is fine and actually normal to see on a 30+ year old Z. Search on here for Rust and you'll find threads on where to look. If you're really thinking you want a 240Z, then keep looking. Best to start with what you want and go from there. Some differences: the 240z is shorter, than the 280z in both length and height. 240's have smaller shocks and engine. they're also more expensive to restore sine they're older and less were built. Do a lot of reading about things before you go buy one. anything can be fixed with $$$...

Well just remember that this creates a lot of hydrogen gas, read flamable, so you'll need good ventilation and You can't use metallic containers since the metal will get eaten if theres any contact to either side of the power source. As for voltage vs current. Voltage is basically the speed of the power, Current (amps) is how much work the power can do. So higher Current means more volume of rust can be removed but more slowly, or higher voltage means smaller volume of rust, but faster removal. It's important that you fully understand the process and about the power relationship before trying to do this. You screw up and grab the wrong part, you can DIE. That being said, Higher current seems to work better in my exp.

sorry dbl post. Forged performance Did a ton of work on these and might have more specs for you.