Pharaohabq

Hehe, we're always following your project.. everytime I see it, it's soo cool. I was thinking up new designs for a VQ35DE/HR manifold... I know I can't afford you though. Phar

wow, yeah in 72' the Z was barely 3, and I was barely 2... So uh, what movie do they need a Z for?

Yeah, I dunno, I kinda like the Red, (what's the color #?) but the rest I dunno. It's obvious how much work he'd put into it, even from looking at the build picts it's not just some rush job with mass amouts of bondo (tho there's some) it's an L28, so you know its limits even with how it's built. I'm not sure I'd pay that much for it, but its good he's got the appraisal for that much. That brings us again to insurance. You guys should all look into antique car insurance. because Z's do die and hopefully, none of us will. Look at what just happened to Br3nnan. Antique Car insurance requires an appraisal (~$100 bucks) but that helps guarantee you'll get real value for your classic car should you get hit. On here we mostly need Classic/modified insurance, but it's the same thing. Appraised value is what they'll give you rather than book, and the payments are very similar. (unless you're 16 ) It would make the difference between getting your car fixed or having your car totalled for a $600 fender smack. Back to his car... I wish him luck selling it for that price. It can only be good for the rest of us.

Yeah TwinTurbo.net. I'd suggest starting with a Twin Turbo Z32, the power you're trying to get isn't that much more than stock on a Twin turbo, and the cost of what you're planning is going to be enough that you might buy two Twin Turbo Z32's. Just look at the cost of the forged internals alone should make up your mind for you.

Drivers side, below the door is the lower door seal, if it's the drivers floorboard I would definitely suspect the cowl area. the seal usually fails across the whole seam. but yeah, check the drain tubes too, they clog over time too. also check your floor plugs too, they fail and you have wet carpet everytime you go through a puddle. Phar

Hmm could the 3M and assorted crap be from a compromised Oil filter? You said it was about the size of a dime, about the size of the filter opening. Though it's unlikely, you might want to pull your rocker cover off and blow air through your ports and see if there's any clogs. Particles like those if they make it past the sump screen can lodge in your bearing oil ports, your rings oil ports, and your cam oil ports. and from there I'm sure you can guess the possible trouble you can have. Really pulling things apart and checking is the best idea, but that's up to you. Though you might be lucky and never have a problem. Oh and for color. I've been partial to black, I assume you mean Pan Color rather than the sump esp since nobody would ever see it. The Engine block is still Blue so Orange would clash.. so 1 vote black.

yeah it's just ideas. Here's the Shelf idea... I like the integrated gauges better. I dunno how hard it would be to do that since I haven't looked behind my dash. doing this with the great stuff and bumper goo, might actually be pretty interresting/easy? Phar Thanks on the PS kudos'

Heh, that's a lot of gauges. Maybe rather than mounting them all to the top, you should consider maybe a dash cut to sink them in a ways and not block any of your vision. hmm, lemme see what I can PS real quick.

He's fishing for a Leno...

Yeah, that site is good, it shows exatly what I'm talking about w/ the cracked seal under the cowl. Sucks about your floor, maybe it's mostly surface rust. you might tap at it with an awl or phillipes screwdriver and see if it pokes through anywhere. There should be a lot of threads on here about replacing floorpans. it's really common for them to rust. I guess it's funny. that little seam cracking can lead to so much damage. though one of my Z's actually rusted through from underneath

Well it's likely the seal under the cowl is cracked. you can try pulling that cowl and looking for cracked sealer. the door, you'll likely just need new door seals. It's probably also a good idea to check your floor pans to make sure nothing is rusting out. Phar

Yeah, Jared, If you could find out the pulses per rotation that would really be helpful in figuring the speed signals. I would really be grateful. once I get all my parts, I'll have to hook things to a signal generator to see if I can fool the speedo. that would be fun. Do you know if consultIII has a speedo test? I'm sure it does. Phar

go Manual. All the automatic S30 tranny's I've seen leak and shift like crap. You've got much better control, and better MGP on a standard... It's also easier to keep what the car came with tho. Less to change, and less to muck up

By now you could have done the WD-40 trick. Pulling the plugs, and spraying a bunch of WD-40 into the cylinders. Over this much time, it would have soaked in and it things were locked up due to rust or corrosion, they would at least be looser. the breaker bar idea Daeron was saying would be a lot easier had the engine soaked for a couple days. though you should be able to turn it... Also, if you jump the starter like he said, make sure it's out of gear, and the key is on. hopefully it would start. or at least turn over. If not, you can pull the starter from the 280z and put it in, they both fit. that would tell you for certain if it's the starter or what... I understand not wanting to put $$$ into an engine you're going to just swap. (I haven't touched mine since I started getting parts for the HR... ) Oh and yes, any Dot3 brake fluid will work. do NOT use Power steering fluid... Phar

Yeah the part #'s for the Shifter Assy on the HR and the DE are the same, so it should work. I'll be getting with you to buy one soon. I hope you're still saving one for me. Phar

Hey that one looks like a pretty good find.. you might get an angle grinder and one of those Dewalt wire cup brushes (wear eye prot) and go after the rust with that. It really cleans it up quickly. you need to track down where that water was coming from. It looks like there was a lot in there. but so far, yeah it all looks surface! yay! Look down inside that cowl area infront of the windshield and see if you see any cracking of the sealer down there, that can cause water leakage like you're seeing. Shop-Vac does wonders for cleaning crap up. paint or coat the underside of that cowl... You might search on here for Dash restoration, theres a few guys who've repaired theirs good as new with "great stuff" and some sealer. You should pull off the front fenders and see what it looks like under those. Maybe look into Por15 for undercoating behind the panels and up in the wheelwells when you get it cleaned out... Jack up the car and look at the floorpans from underneath. my 2nd 280z rusted out from the outside rather than inside. so you should look there. Also the area just behind where the front suspension mounts to the body, is a good place to look. Other than all that, it looks like you've got a winner. I didn't see anything obvious. Keep posting the pictures, we love em. Other than that, just read and search and read and search. there's answers to just about anything you could ask on here... oh, and your brake fluid looks low Phar

maybe call and ask for a pict? or get the recommender to send you a pict of what he had plated. Generally you get what you pay for. Cheap Fast Good Pick any two.

maybe get some starter fluid and spray that in the intake, that'll tell you if you put the engine together correctly. from there you'll know then what to check next. If it doesn't start with starter fluid I'd guess your timing's off.

Wow, well hey Brave man, keep up the fun. It's always fun cutting things up without a plan on how to fix it. Probably the best advice I can give you for fixing that hole is to clean up as much of the rust as you can, (wire brush on a angle grinder, WEAR GOGGLES) cutting away anything that's more than say 1/2 rusted through. Then get some cardboard and make a template for the curves you're going to want to follow. Then you can bend some sheet metal to the approximate shape, either by hand or my cutting a form from wood and using a mallet. then once you've got the blank you can weld it in place using tack welds. Magnets will really help here to hold it while you're welding. once it's tacked. you can weld it the rest of the way, but watch how hot the metal gets, since you don't want to warp anything. do maybe an inch then stop, then an inch etc.. Make sure you clean up and seal the backside of the plate when you're done because you don't want the bare metal rusting through from behind.

Jared, Hey sounds like you know a bit about this. The front bearings have the sensor rings. Do you know how many pulses per revolution? The Wheel sensors may not actually be needed, in that if I can reproduce the signals they feed the ABS, then the ABS will tell the ACAmp what to send to to the Speedo for a reading. I was figuring the wheel sensors could be either tied together, or multiplexed digitally to all recieve the same pulses from a single pickup off a proximity sensor like you both were talking. though it would have to be adapted for gear ratio, and number of pulses per revolution. I wonder if the ABS unit requires the hydraulics to function, or just to have fluid in place. the Hydraulic ports could concievably be plugged and I'm not sure the unit would know the difference, and if all 4 wheel sensors always read the same, then the ABS would always figure no wheel slippage and never pulse. Phar I know it's going to take a little more figuring to get the dash to run. but since I'm pulling the stock 07 harnesses and such hopefully I'll be able to get it figured.

Wow them is some sexy plenums, especially that last one. Hopefully they all go fast.. Anyhow, I really like the RipsNZ design now can that be made into a V6 version with ports below for the VQ? if would certainly fix my hood clearance issues if it was that low profile. Very interresting... for a HR version, it could have inlets at both the front and the rear. or maybe Y inlets from the front in oval pipe. damn that would be sexy... I need to learn to weld aluminum. Phar

yeah, it can be expensive... We did a group buy at Klearz.com for Clear S30 taillights. Maybe you could talk to them and see what they might charge for it, they did a pretty good job on the lights. What do you think of using high intensity LEDS for back lighting. You can't dim them as easilly, but they never burn out, and they take less space. no heat either. Phar

So I was reading... The Speedo looks like it's run from signalling through the ABS system which has signals from all 4 wheels. If the wheel signals all match even pulses then the ABS knows nothing is slipping and keeps feeding pulses to the ACAmp then to the Speedo. So I was thinking the easiest way to run the speedo is to tie the signals from the wheel sensors together and pulse that off the driveshaft, in appropo pulses. If you had the stock z33 cluster mounted, but I guess you'd need the ABS and Electrics and the wheel sensors to try this. I don't know what the wheel sensors read to get their signal, so I don't know the signal, the manual doesn't say, I'd have to find someone with a 350z who'd let us hook a meter up to the wheel sensor, then turn the wheel jacked up, to recreate the signal. Tho the Manual does say it sends 8 pulses to the speedo. (combi meter) I found someone who has a junked up 07 I'm going to get some parts from, and maybe we'll see how this part works. Phar

Yeah, that's the one I'm talking about, I thing the manual calls it the IPMC...

Br3nnan, Hey man, that bites... What type of insurance did you have? Do not admit any fault, even to the insurance co, You need to standfast that you had right of way, and that she crossed your path. You were not speeding.. You should go out and picture and measure the skidmarks. You'll need them to prove your position on the road and possibly your speed, should you have to go to court. hopefully you had an appraisal, and agreed upon value insurance policy, otherwise they're going to try to give you just plain book value. which as you know is quite low for a 30+ year old car. You may need to trailer your car to an antique/custom auto appraiser, and have him note what items were upgraded and to note restored/prefect condition items you may have had such as the engine and dash. Some appraisers won't touch a wreaked car. the idea here being that you are trying to establish actual replacement value. You may need to find examples off Ebay or local listings for cars in similar restored condition to help prove this point. Your Local Z club can help a lot here. Lastly once they make you an offer for settlement that matches your estimate, you should then knock say $200 off that to buy your old car back, unless they outline that already, but remember everything is negotiatable. The insurance guys are professional hagglers so hopefully you'll get off easy. that was you'll be able to salvage or at the least move your good parts to a "new" body. Sorry that happened... Phar