lgoodson@pacbell.net

Well It's now 1 78 and 2 76 tachs that I have tried to get to work per JTR and at $40 a pop I might add and still I can't get the thing to work. I have it hooked to the white wire on the negative side of the coil or so I am told. To look at the coil there is no (-) mark to be sure. Who knows how to make the stock tach on a 93 LT1 work? Anybody?

Subtle Driver . New consoles are $160 at MSA but they are fibreglass and really sturdy. Used ones seem to all have cracks or about to start to crack. That said I would still buy a used one if it looks good at this point and the price is reasonable. So far I have been quoted $70 and $100 but I am still listening. For a $100 I think I would just buy a new one. Less risk.

Scott, just to let you know. I have just found 3 tachs for sale from various people for $38 to $40 shipped. I just bought one so we'll see how it goes.

Hoov, I believe that I need to hook the tach up to the negative terminal on the coil. That is what JTR says and also my harness guy. So the 73 probably won't work. Thanks

deja, today I talke with Mike at JTR. He couldn't help me with the LT1. Talked to my harness guy and he said that I had it hooked up correctly so I must either have a bad tach or the wrong one as Braap has said that he has not been able to get a 78 tach to work with a HEI system. What do you know about this. Thanks for the link. I probably will build a filter if I need one. I have the filter off the stock harness I could use. Larry

I have been told that a 78 tach will not work with a HEI ignition which is what I have. Both the LT1 and a 78 Tach. So if any one has one (75 to 77), I am in the market. PM me with info and price SOON Larry

Yes, I have a 93 TA LT1 6spd and an aftermarket harness. The harness guy gave me a tach lead off thr coil (white) which is what I am trying to use with mixed results but at least I get something at the tach. Any Ideas? I will call JTR tomorrow and see if they can be of some help. Larry

A13 on my ECM is the engine coolant temp sensor pin. The tack signal comes from the coil. It's a white wire. That is the one that I am using but thanks for the input. I am not using the stock harness.

So the LT1 is in and running fine. Now I am trying to get the tach working. JTR says to use a 280Z tach with the HEI distributor. This is a LT1 and I don't know what kind of a distributor it has besides being the OPTI spark type. But I went ahead and installed the 280Z tach per all of the JTR instructions including calibration and the 15K resister. Using the tach lead off of the coil that my harness guy gave me I am able to get the tach to work (sort of). It jumps around and when you increase the RPMs it goes to zero. Not good. With the resister installed, the tach is dead. Any ideas as to what may be the problem???????

Looking for a Cable-X speedometer conversion box to hook my T56 up to my stock speedo. Let me know

I am looking for a uncracked 71 to 73 console with the fuse block access panel. Let me know if you have one.

Now I think it's getting louder. Today I could hear it from accross the street while the car was idling. Could it be that the thing is going out? As it pushes gas through the 3/8" pipe and through the 5/16 return. Maybe the gas is not moving fast enough for it. Stock 280Z gas tank, stock size fuel lines and stock pump but a GM LT1 regulator. Inside the car it's overpowering. Got to make a change

Yea, that pipe is close but with the clamp removed hopefully I will have the needed clearances.

Well I just looked at the rear of the intake. Even with the JTR set back there is still plenty of room and what I saw was that there was no interfearance with the Vent pipes and the intake. Looks like the intake should lift straight up and out unless there is something under the intake that necessitates moving the intake to the rear to get it up.

Update I believe that I reached an agreement with brian Baskin at Delta Current Control and another cotroller in on the way to me, Should be here tomorrow 6/21/09. It took a lot of talking and debating but I think it is finally over. I believe the unit is a good one and therefore worht all the work it took to get in my car. Just wanted to let everyone know incase they were thinking of buying one.

Deja, Thanks for clearing that up. The shop manual would let you believe that there is coolant there because it says to drain the engine when pulling the intake. Glad to hear I won't have to so the job should be a breeze. Thanks again for the quick response. Larry

Here is my current problem. It seems that my intake is leaking oil. This is a LT1. I will have to reseal it. My question is: Is there coolant running through the intake or not. I am getting conflicting opinions and I do not want to crack the seal and get a crankcase full of coolant. The shop manual says in step #2 to drain the engine. Sounds to me like it runs through the intake. JBC3 says that the intake is dry. What say you? Larry

Does the coolant flow through the LT1 intake or not. Some people say it does not but the 2nd line in the shop manual for removing the intake says to drain the engine. I need to reseal the intake but don't want to dump water into the engine and draining the whole thing will be a pain.

Diff info [url=http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145174][/url] http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=62 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145174

Well my last 280Z had a electric fuel pump and while in the car I could not hear it. Ofcourse I was not listening for it. This pump, you don't have to listen for. It sounds like a it's in the car with me and until I am on the gas I can always hear it running.

I have this LT1 that I am using a fuel pump from a 81 280ZX turbo. It produces 66 lbs of presure up front so it's plenty. I am using the stock rubber insulated mount for it but the pump is loud. I have a 3" Magnaflow exhaust and sitting in the car I can hear loudly the pump over the Magnaflow volume. Is this normal and what pump should I be using to quiet the fuel pump noise down Larry

Don't know what all I can do. Went on Google maps and took a look at his address. It is a house and it doesn't look like much. He is 400 miles away so I can't go kick his door but there is a couple of internet fraud government agencys that I can contact. He advertises a warrantee and defaults, NOT good.

Just wanted to warn everyone about a guy named Brian Baskin at Delta Current Controls. They make fan controllers for the Tauras fans. They are expensive but they have a variable speed feature I like so I spent the money. $156. It took 4 weeks to get here and 2 days for it to blow. Brian doesn't return emails and he doesn't answer his phone but finally I got him on the phone and we decided that I was to send it back to him for repair. After a week and a half he, after a few emails to him, he tells me that he can't fix it... period, end of conversation. I have tried to get him on the phone and have emailed him many times for some idea as to where we go from here but I can't get ahold of him. He is clearly avoiding me. I think he is hoping that I will just go away but I won't. This I think is a little one horse shop probably working out of fhis garage making these things and he's trying to sound Big with his warrantee and everything but he is not willing to honer the warrantee. Stay away from Brian Baskin and Delta Current Control.

The brake switch idea sounds good to me. I currently have it hooked to ignition on wiring. I would rather use the computer to do the work but my ECM is not putting the lite green wire to ground as it should so I was unable to get into reverse, I've checked it all out and it's the ECM that is the problem. Maybe I'll look around for another 93 TA LT1 computer. If I was shifting down from 150mph into 5th, I don't think I likely would be on the brake but who knows. Thought about the knob with a button idea but I just thought the button would be a little tacky.

Just figured it out. If I put 12V to the solenoid the the shifter moves into reverse normally. Shifts fine. So is ther suppose to be 12 volts all the time until the car is moving above 3mph and then turn off so as to lock out the reverse. Is that how it works? If so, can I have 12v to it at all times without a problem?