SHO-Z

I had a similar problem with the 280zx master cylinder. I bleed the brakes and no air. Went through each wheel several times and all I got was fluid. Brake petal went to the floor and was mushy. Then I saw the bleed on the side of the master cylinder. Bleed it once and all of my problems were solved. I have bleed a lot of brakes before and never had to bleed the master cylinder. Lesson Learned!

I have found several people using blowthrough webers and SKs using turbos. It is also metioned in my Weber book. I am going to try this and see if it will work for me. If it doen't work I will try using the supercharger wet.

I have checked to see what I have now. tripple 45 MM Carbs 34 MM Venturi Jets Mains 135 Tube F11 Air 165 Idle 50 If I calculate using the area of the jets from increased air flow of 1.8 times more air @ 12 PSI of Boost Mains 180 Tube F11 Air 155 Idle 65 I really feel that these are larger than I need. Any of you weber experts please give me your input.

I have never heard of a rod to quite knocking after warm up. A rod will knock no matter what the temperature. Lifters will knock when cold sometimes. A cracked piston skirt will also make a slight knocking noise when cold. It sounds like something in the valve train to me. As for rod repair without rebuild. Years ago you could get a rod journal ground in place. The last time that I saw this done was over 30 years ago, showing I am and OLD FART.

I need some help trying to figure out where to start on the jetting on my forced induction project. I have triple 45 MM SK Racing Carbs with 33 MM Chokes, Weber Clones. SKs use weber jets. I am planning on running around 11 psi of boost. From my calculations I will be feeding air equal to a 5 liter engine through the carbs. I have gone through the weber jetting articles on the web and seem to be missing something. If anyone has any input on were to start with the jetting I would appreciate the help.

Standard ANSI B size is 11 x 17. Engineering drawings are done in landscape orientation. 17 wide and 11 tall. Get with someone in your class that understands what is going on and ask for help. Getting through an engineering program is a team effort, with everyone contributing. If you have to go sit on the teacher’s desk and have him help. You are paying him to instruct you in CAD.

It looks by your post you are in NY. I really do not want to bust yoiur bubble, but Zs are not good on snow and ice. I had 2 of them in Colorado and both were hands full on snow and ice. Snow tires helped some, all seasons didn't really do the job. There was more than once I had to chain up, where if I had a FWD I wouldn't have.

Here are a couple of picks that I found showing simular setups. The white one is a car in NY, the other I do not know where it is from. Both from the look of them are wet supercharges, injection upstream of the supercharger.

Thanks for the video. I didn't realize that the superchargers wine would be than loud. Cannot wait to get my supercharger project finished. Project looks great in the pictures. Congrats. I will be interesting to see what it puts out on a dyno.

As a compressible gas, exhaust, travels down a straight pipe the speed of the gas in the center accelerates. There is a layer of gas on the sides of the pipe called the boundary layer that for all practical purposes is not moving. Of you looked at a velocity profile it would have a bullet shape. As the velocity in the center increases the boundary layer increases in thickness and the bullet shape gets more pointed. There is a point on a long straight pipe where the gas reaches sonic velocity and the flow is choked, the gas will not flow over sonic velocity. This will not happen on the length of an exhaust system. Any type of change of direction will disrupt the flow and cause the boundary layer to decrease. I would not be concerned with the bends required to install an exhaust system. Most of the ones used are at least 3 diameter bends and really do not effect the back pressure greatly. There is a whole lot more going on with the pressure waves and such than I would like to think about.

I used and case cutter and cut just at the edge of the glass on the outside. Mine was original rubber and would have to been replaced anyway.

Spend the extra bucks and get a Lincoln 135T with the gas set up, you will be much happier with a good welder. I used a borrowed welder simular to that one on my covertible conversion and one weld would look great and the next one I would have to fight it to get it to stop spurting and all.

Are you studying for ME or CE? Is this project 3D cad or just cuts? It would be better to design a sepentine belt system with the Pulleys and all of the rotating parts. MEs like things that move. Do what will give you the level of best detail and will show your cad skills, it will determine you grade. This is from an ME to a Future ME.

Please put a poster size picture of you and your wife on the beach on your garage wall and look at it before you do anything that could possibly cause bodily harm to you. We had our safety meeting on had injuries yesterday morning up here in Prudhoe Bay AK and to see your post in the afternoon makes one think. Do it right and do it safe!

Look at this post http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92930&highlight=carb

You need to check the floats in the carbs and all of the jets. You probably loosened up a bunch of shellac in the carbs and have them all clogged up. I picked up a set of triple SK racing carbs that were sitting around for some time. After soaking them in carb cleaner for some time the shellac still was like hard plastic in the bottom of the bowls that I had to scrape out. From your original post I would say your carbs are all clogged up.

Do a search there was a good discussion on this a while back.

NASCAR does there engine blocks and most other parts with cryogenics. When the metal is lowered to cryogenic temp the grain structure of the metal is tightened up, the spaces between the individulal metal grains. When the metal is brought back to normal temperature some of this tightening of the grain sturcture remains inplace increasing the strenght of the metal.

Well AZ is hotter than hell in the summer and ok in the winter. You can get a house in one of the outlying developments in the west valley of Phoenix for around 120K for around 1200 sq ft. with 2 car gar. or a modular on and acre for about the same. Wages are lower than Calif and so are the housing prices. I would advise you to do a search on the web of the areas that interest you and look in their local news papers and check out the housing prices and jobs that are available. It is not fun to be miserable in a place just because it is cheap to live there. Do your research and look for a place that has the most to offer to keep you and yours happy. Life is and adventure and you only have one trip.

If I remember right in teh 60s the best gas was Cheveron Custom Supreem @ 120 octane, blue in color. Used to use it our race bikes.

Try kitcarz.com he has several to choose from.

That might have been my post on building my convertible. I think the pictures are gone but the info is still there. Search under sho-z in this section. Another source is the video by z-therapy. I used some of his ideas off of his old web site. I used the 1x2 tube stock under the car welded into the frame rails for reinforcement. It is ok for stock power but will require extra reinforcement for a V8.

I have always done the soapy water for about 30 minutes shaking constanly. I have then refilled the tank with water to just below where I want to weld, reducing the volume of possible gases in the tank. Had no problem with this methold. But it is always dangerous!

A 302 is a 327 with a 283 crank. A friend has a 67 camaro with a 302 built out of a 327 block and 283 crank stock eliminator and is almost in the 10s in the quarter. From what he is telling me there is a large and small jornel cranks.

I saw a Tripple Carb Turbo/Supercharger Surge Tank on ebay for those who are interested. I am planning on building my own for less that half the price they want but the pictures are worth looking at. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7912952511&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT