inline6

I just did a search for WPN-079 on RA's site and it brought up two listings - first the valeo and second an application of 81 Datsun 810 and 82-83 Maxima only - look at the second listing, not the first one. Manufacturer listed is AISIN. Part numbers listed match the box that is pictured about page 3 (I think by Dreco) in this thread - a confirmed correct pump. I only bought one - there are three left. I'll let people know what comes, though by then, I doubt there will be any left.

Aaah! I have been moving for the last week or so and haven't been watching the forums.

I had to pay $100 just to have the rear of the new cam drilled/tapped for an NPT plug which I did before assembly this second time around. Front is sealed by the cam gear bolt of course. I'm in the middle of moving this weekend, so I can't do much with the car at the moment. Rocker arms have been removed but the cam is still in the engine. I am on the lookout for the pressure outfit my builder is sending me. Garrett

Rockers: All: 1 and 2: 3 and 4: 5 and 6: 7 and 8: 9 and 10: 11 and 12:

No, I have not visually checked to see if oil is getting to every lobe. I was/am scared to death to turn it over at cranking speed to test that... And I don't think turning the oil pump shaft at power drill speed is sufficiently fast enough to observe (accurately) oil flow from the spray bar... My engine builder is sending me his pressurizing outfit, so I can hook it up to the block and check oil flow without cranking. Ya know... another thing... my valve springs are running 56 lbs pressure at installed height, so it's not like I have this excessive valve spring load I am dealing with. Within a few seconds of starting the oil pressure gauge showed just north of 70 psi (yes, I know, this is at the block main passage) and stayed pretty much right there for the full 20 minutes (maybe dropped 2-4 psi as oil got warm). Ran it at 2500 RPM only! For F sake.

Ok. Cam number two is "effed". This is not fun people. Various cam lobes: The rocker with the most damage: And a close up: At this point, I think running both internally oiled and spray bar is complete SHITE. Clearly there is not enough oil getting to this cam.

Fired up the engine tonight with the new cam in it. I ran it at 2500 RPM for 20 minutes and shut it off. This time around, I have a chill cast Estas blank, ground with the same master Integral Cams used to make the first cam, but there has been no nitride treatment. I used redline assembly lube on the lobes and main journals. And instead of using Mobil 1, I am using Redline racing oil. Was a $100 for two gallons delivered, and the comp pan took it all. Of course, since the engine has run before, and carbs are adjusted, etc. I got initial fire up after two very brief turns of the starter. I confirmed with my engine builder that the oil restrictor supplying oil to my cylinder head remains unmodified. I didn't know that the hole should be enlarged for my application. Not doing that until the head comes off for freshening. I have the stock spray bar for now in addition to the internal oiling of the cam. I'd like to get either the billet one from LarryZ or maybe the Rebello one. Fingers crossed that I don't have a problem with the cam or rockers this time.

So Tony, what is the scoop on running internally oiled cams along in conjunction with the stock sway bar - one has to drill the restrictor in the supply from the block to that head or not? I have seen you comment in another thread (Post 15) that this should be done when running both an internally oiled cam with the stock external spray bar. If there isn't a definitive word, then how about a recommendation? Or a guess? My engine's bottom end is fresh with correct bearing clearances. I want to say 2.5 thou, but I'm being lazy by not looking at my build specs right now. By the way, I've been trying to get my hands on the billet spray bar from LarryRacer240Z, but it has been half a year and still none have been manufactured by his supplier. Maybe for my 50th birthday (in six years) i'll get one.

Was reading the forums about running both internal oiling and the stock cam spray bar and I see that there is discussion about opening up the restrictor in the top of the block to .100" as well as running the turbo oil pump. I am running the pump, but I think the restrictor is stock sized. Could that be part of my problem? I am just now installing a replacement cam... and don't want to fire it up only to experience the same problem. Other things I will be changing is, I am running Redline Racing oil instead of Mobile One. This was per the recommendation of Megacycle Cams. Garrett

Thanks for the input. Very good sucking sound coming from the top of the trans when I drained the oil to remove the rear extension. Oil came out very smoothly. So, air vent is open. Inspected the periphery of the oil seal machined cut-out. A couple of very minor nicks, but otherwise looks good. Must be something else.

I took the rear housing off of the trans and pressed the old bushing out. Upon close examination, it isn't bad at all. In fact, the ID on it is tighter than the new one. I used some 2500 grit sandpaper to clean it up a tad. It actually fits more tightly on the yoke sleeve than the new ones. Since it is longer, and obviously in ok condition, I put it back in instead of the new one. Now, I am back to square one. I don't know why I have this rear oil seal leak. Was it my imagination that I saw lots of deflection when pushing on the yoke of the driveshaft while it was in the car? The bushing obviously limits deflection... The stock driveshaft yoke sleeve measures 1.475 OD. The Inland Impire Driveline yoke sleeve measures 1.476 OD. The new bushing measures 1.482 ID... The stock bushing is probably a few thousandths smaller ID... I dunno. The main shift rod, that I replaced the o-ring and little oil seal on before, is perfectly dry. Absolutely no leakage there. I took the rear oil seal from the spare transmission and slid it onto the yoke sleeve. It actually fits a bit tighter than the relatively new oil seal that was on the trans in the car. So, I'll throw that one away and buy another new one from Nissan. But, I've replaced that with a new OEM one before... and still had the leak. I suspect another new one won't change anything. Pretty stumped. I hate fluid leaks.

Hmmm. Interesting. Yeah, I looked all over the internet and couldn't find a part number listing for a FS5W71B. But, I wish I hadn't paid $14 for mine (I actually bought two), before I knew about the $4 ones. G

The new cam came in. Oil holes are in interesting locations... Many are in close proximity to the center of the base circle. Some are closer to the opening ramp. And 2 and 11 are just after the closing ramp. Sheesh. Can no one get that right? Was going to work on installing it tonight, but unfortunately there is no rear oil galley plug. Going to have to take it to a machine shop to get it drilled and tapped for a 3/8" NPT. There are a couple of Datsun shops around this area (north Atlanta), right? Garrett

Here is the one I got. It appears to be the right OD and ID, but it is 1/8th of an inch shorter than stock. And it only has cutouts/flutes on one side of it. Xnke, were the one's you sourced like mine? Also, stock length or a little shorter? And, mine was $14 plus shipping... instead of what... $3 from Cobra? Garrett

Is this the part you are speaking of? The picture is different than the factory... No cut outs or flutes for transmission oil to lube the yoke. Were the ones you got like the part pictured, and if so, how have they worked for you?

Oh, right. I actually thought at one point along the way that either or both of those were the issue. When I started looking into the problem seriously (a few of months ago now) I did replace those first (the seal and the o-ring on the shift shaft) but I still have the leak. The shifter shaft and top of tail housing is dry - in this case, the fluid is coming out of the rear seal location for sure. The deflection of the driveshaft which appears to visibly allow a separation of the yoke tube to the oil seal lip is my primary indicator at this point. Garrett

I found this today. http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/FS5W71-Bushings-Washers.html I placed an order for one, I'll report back when it comes in whether it is the right part.

I rebuilt my late model 280ZX transmission a few years back. But, even with a new rear seal, I had a slight leak there. I don't recall if it was there before I rebuilt the trans or only after... I've driven the car rarely in the last several years, primarily a couple of track events, so the slight leak coming from the rear transmission seal was an annoyance, but not something I had to deal with on a daily basis. At first, I thought I damaged the new seal I put in when I rebuilt the transmission. But, I replaced that with another new one (which seemed to help briefly) but I noticed after the next track event, I still had some leakage. I began to suspect that my driveshaft yoke was too small in diameter. I bought it many years ago from Inland Empire Driveline. Even though I never had an issue in running it for years, I thought maybe it was machined to like the smaller end of acceptable tolerance range, and maybe it had worn some over the years, allowing fluid to start leaking. With the car back on the road recently I noticed that after every drive, it was leaking noticeably. I decided to devote some time to finding the issue. I pulled the driveshaft out to measure the OD of the yoke and compare that to a spare factory driveshaft yoke. I measured both with calipers and was surprised to see that they were the same measurement. Ruling out an undersized yoke as the problem, I re-installed the driveshaft and pushed upwards on the driveshaft yoke. I could see noticeable deflection in that direction and it appeared that the oil seal lip came out of contact with the OD of the yoke tube. Pulling down, I could see a rather large amount of deflection as well. I have a spare FS5W71B, so I pulled the rear seal and looked at what was behind. Here are a couple of pics: There is a sleeve which is press fit into the tail section of the transmission case. This one is showing some wear, but I suspect the one that is in the car right now is much worse. I'm guessing that with the amount of movement the transmission output shaft/driveshaft yoke is being allowed, it not only allows the seal lips to come out of contact with the yoke tube, but I am eating up rear main seals quicker... With these transmissions (of this vintage) likely to have lots of miles on them at this point, I wanted to make everyone aware of what I found. Also, anyone have any ideas for best way to repair? I can't find the sleeve on the microfiche... It doesn't look to be a part I can buy new from Nissan. Garrett

Megacycle was able to source it. They initially said they would have to try to track one down and in a conversation weeks later (they were waiting for info from the guy that used to run Integral Cams to locate the master), said they had a few on hand. Oil lubrication hole location was discussed in this thread earlier. Just wanted to mention that I asked Megacycle to drill them in more optimal locations, but the cam blank came with those already drilled.

Megacycle found that they had the master for my cam all along. New cam has been manufactured and is in route to me.

Just a little update... The two people I've talked to at MegacycleCams seem to be really knowledgeable. Both were familiar with Estas blanks. They told me that I shouldn't have nitrided the Estas blank because they are "chill cast" as is, which makes them harder than other cam blanks. We discussed how I came to nitride that cam. We talked about CWC blanks which they said are definitely "softer". Additionally, we discussed the oil I am using - Mobile One. They said that Mobile One is a poor choice for my application - "a rubbing surface rocker". In fact, they said they see more cam failures from use of Mobile One than any other oil, but I'm betting a lot of that has to do with it's percent of market share - it clearly has a large part of the full synthetic market. They brought up the lack of Zinc in modern oils being a problem especially in my application and basically, to keep it simple, said I should use RedLine or Motul... though they mentioned a couple of other oils that are also good for rubbing surface rocker applications. Unfortunately, they don't have a 100% of the masters from Integral Cams - they don't have the one for my cam. They are in contact with the former owner of that business and believe they can get the cam profile info - the design specifications from him in the next week or two. They plan on making a new master. This should be good news for anyone that would like to have this "Kinetic Sunbelt" cam grind. They talked about spray welding on the lobes to create the hardest lobe possible, but I don't want to go into uncharted territory again. I told them that I just want them to use an Estas blank, and I'll forego the nitriding this time. Time will tell if they can make it happen for me. Additionally, I believe I have tracked down the valve springs that are used with the cam. "1W901" was on the Kinetic Sunbelt invoice. A little searching on the internet brought me to this Nissan part number: 13203-1W901 Looks like my springs may be outer valve springs from what looks to be like several different VG engines. They are $4.89 each at NissanPartsZone.com. I will check that out further at some point down the road, probably by buying one and checking to see if the specs on it match what we put in my engine. G

As I said, Kinetic is no longer sourcing these cams. Did some searching... Found the paperwork that came with the cam. The cam manufacturer was Integral Cams. The are no longer in business. However, I found online that Megacycle Cams bought all of their "masters" - this means they should have what they need to make me another one. Called Megacycle today, and they confirmed this. So, now I'm going to pull the cam out of the head and send both that cam and a stock cam to them along with all the documentation I have on the "z-car l-series datsun E30 race cam #2" as it is named. I'd like to get another cam made from an Estas core, but might get a regrind from the stock cam. We'll see.

I do.

Indeed. It clearly didn't matter for the stock valve train, but it becomes an issue at some point with higher lift cams, higher lb valve springs, etc.

Checked with Sunbelt about a replacement cam. They are "no longer sourcing these cams". I pulled out my paperwork and see that the cam was manufactured by Integral Cams, who have since gone out of business. Found a post online that said http://www.megacyclecams.com bought all the cam designs. I guess I'll give them a call on Monday, but I was thinking, I have the old cam and some pretty good documentation on it... Would it be possible to send it off to someone and get back an identical replacement? Garrett