Pyro

yes, the 180 is weak. I would use a stock r200, 3.90 gear with stock a-arms but use stronger springs in the rear. use stock springs up front.

I put it on the driver's side fender, up against the radiator inside the engine compartment. The alternator is on the passenger side so had room on the drivers side. I keep the tank empty, except when I get to the track. so I 'm guessing it is fairly safe. The nice thing is the ability to run racing fuel with the no2 shot, and only needing a few gallons of the stuff.

what block/head combo do you have?

here you go. maybe not so cheap (70.00) but only 6 x 6 x 12 inches. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RCI-2010D/

not the answer you are looking for, but....... I mounted a 1 gallon fuel cell up front for my no2 wet system. summit racing sells 1 gallon fuel cells for cheap. used a mallory comp70 to pump the fuel. filled the 1 gallon tank with racing fuel. 1 gallon of fuel is enough for 1 ten pound bottle of n02.

why do you need stronger control arms and why do you need to upgrade the r200 diff? both of these items are strong enough for most v8 applications.

I have seen three 40amp relays fail in the past 1 to 1.5 years on a ford fan. Glad you are getting better results.

Looks like a nice setup. flex fans are noisy and suck hp. You will be better off with an electric fan. A stock Ford fan or a Black Magic Fan will both work well. Used ford fans can be had for 25.00 at your local junk yard. Fans from 90's T-bird or a Taurus. Black magic fan can be had from summit racing. Need a big relay to run these fans. 50 or 60 amp would work the best. Can easily get by with a 40 amp if you only use the low speed part of the ford fan. do a search of the ford fan. A 40 amp relay will work on high for awhile but will fail with in 6 months. what turbo did you have? want to sell it?

I believe there is a thin ring (groove) around the top of the turbo head bolt. I hear it is a stronger bolt but don't know for sure. I have used both with equal success on my turbo engines.

thanks for sharing your engine build. fun to just watch sometimes. I have a few questions if you have the time. So, is that a 2.8L or 3.0L? What pistons and what compression ratio? What cam are you planning to use? What turbo are you going to use?

you can add a turbo to your current engine. 8.3:1 takes a turbo without any problems if you run stock boost (7 to 8 psi). use a 8:1 fmu with the distributor (dizzy) mechanical advance locked out and set at 24 degrees. ebay sells fmu's for 90 to 110 US dollars. if you change to a P79 then you can run more boost but will also need an IC and more fuel pump (if you use a fmu for fuel enrichment). are you going to use a junk yard turbo or buy a new one? the turbine and compressor selection will be key to your setup. If the turbine is to big then boost will come on very late and you will lose much of the engine power band. If the turbine is too small then low rpm boost will be very good, but it will choke the engine off in the higher rpms and it would be hard to drive without boost coming on all the time.

don't need to add bigger injectors. Just more fuel pressure with an FMU. 55 to 60 psi of fuel pressure with 7 to 8 psi of boost (stock 280zxt boost) works well. one msd efi pump will do that. Or two stock pumps in parallel. A stock pump in good condition may also be able to make that pressure with enough flow. if you get crazy (like on my car), you can run a carb pump to feed a big bosch pump (from a porsche 928) too make 100 psi of fuel pressure on 14 psi of boost. But you will need an intercooler to run 14 psi. 10 psi is about max for no IC.

well, i have done it. 8 psi on a stock 82 setup (flat top/P79) and all the engine would take was 17 degrees of timing without detonation. sure the turbo made more power on the 8.8:1 cr engine but not as much as more timing on a 8.3:1 engine (tried that too) or more boost and even more timing on a 7.4:1 cr setup. A bigger than stock cam would help a lot with boost and 8.8:1 cr. Say a msa turbo cam stage 1 or 2, but just too much cylinder pressure for boost and 8.8:1 cr and a stock cam. good luck with proving me wrong! I would be glad to see it!

now clear coat it. makes a big difference in shine and durability

yes, without the steering in the way you could build an exhaust pipe from the stock NA exhaust manifold up to a turbo. The turbo needs to be mounted above the oil pan so oil can drain down to the pan. Also need a bracket to hold the weight of the turbo, as it will break the exhaust pipe in time. You can add a turbo to the stock 82 setup (flat tops and P79, 8.8:1 cr), but you can't run much boost or timing on boost (8 psi and less than 20 degrees advance). so much better to use a complete 75 to 80 engine (8.3:1) or use a 75 to 80 block (N42) with a 81 to 83 head (P79) to make 7.4:1. Should be able to run 14.5 at 95 mph with 8 psi of boost on a otherwise stock Z with a manual trans. This is about 180 to 200hp and 225 to 240 ftlbs at the wheels. Makes the car feel very torquey if you use a stock L28 turbo exhaust turbine (quick to boost).

then you could get 400hp with the right cam. The next power restriction are the heads.

stock tpi is good for 5500 max, due to an intake made for torque. 350hp is about it for the stock intake.

the stock NA intake is good for a turbo. the na engine is just as strong as a turbo engine. order the stock turbo exhaust manifold from ebay. the turbo exhaust manifolds are small and should be fairly cheap to ship. use a set of 1975 to 1980 NA pistons. These pistons are dished and will work in the 82 block. Use the 82 head (P79). these pistons with the P79 head will make stock turbo compression (7.4:1). the easiest way to add a turbo to a NA engine is to lock out the ignition mechanical advance and use a FMU (bell engineering or vortec super FMU) to increase fuel pressure on boost. Lock the timing at 25 degrees and use 7 or 8:1 (fuel pressure to boost).

Maybe rust bubbles in the paint act as dimples that reduce drag. so maybe it is true when some guys claim to go 150 mph in a stock and "rusted out" 280. That explains it all!

I would try to run even more timing at idle. As long as the engine cranks ok when warm, then turn it up. however, 42 is too high. You need to reduce the amount of mechanical advance in the distributor. 25 to 30 initial and 38 total (if you are using older style heads), or 36 total if you are using modern heads (fast burn vortec style).

For drag racing you need to install stronger springs in the rear and run stock springs up front. This will cure the wheel hop plus help put the power down on the wheels. On take off, you need the front to lift and the rear to stay steady. This looks very similar to the rear squatting and the front steady (which is a bad thing). So weak springs up front and strong in the rear is what you need. Heavy springs in the rear and soft up front also fixes understeer, which plagues most z's. Rarely does a drag racing setup help handling, but it does on a z. 118 mph trap should already be a high 11 run. How old are your tires? Fresh rubber helps a lot more than you would think. Gears will also help. 3.3 is not enough. my 240 with a 5 spd, 350 cid, and 200 shot of N02 ran quicker with a 3.90 gear than with a 3.54. when it comes to drag racing, you need gears.

you are going to hate that pump. loud as hell. mount the pump as low as possible. build a bracket to hang it even with the bottom of the tank. when you get tired of the pump noise, get a mallory comp70 or comp110 (depending on your engine build). I had a clogged line like that. Couldn't fix it. so I took out the drain plug and drilled and tapped the stock drain hole to a 1/4" or 3/8" npt (forgot which one). and put on a 90 degree fitting with a 3/8 hose barb. could drop a rubber hose into a 5 gallon gas tank just to get the engine started. you will also learn to hate that carb. (vapor locks and sticky throttle). get a holley 750 vac secondary 3310 when you had enough.

don't you guys read before posting? here it is again. http://www.hardcore50.com/Articles/georgeklass/greatmyths.htm they ONLY changed the r/s ratio. no power difference. they used 500 cid drag racing engines.

just in case you didn't see this link I posted a few pages back. Drag engine builders trying to make more power by only changing the s/r ratio. didn't change anything. http://www.hardcore50.com/Articles/georgeklass/greatmyths.htm

No offense, but I'll take the side of professional engine builders that publish on such matters. Besides, my old school 350 with a 1.63 r/s ratio revs to 7200 rpm just fine. Would easily go more but 7200 is at valve float for my setup. Yes, the people that rave about 327's are the same people spreading these r/s power myths. A 350 or 400 will easily out power a 327 with todays high flow cylinder heads. The main thing that made 400's into high torque engines was the old small block heads didn't flow enough for 400 cid at high rpms.