Pyro

too much cam. plus we also need the lsa spec. may work with 106 or 108 lsa. a ran a 11:1 362 cid, zero deck, 64cc dart heads with 200cc intake ports with full length headers, rpm intake, 750 holley, and a compcam 292H. trans was a t5 and diff was r200 3.90. it ran strong from 3000 to valve float (7200 prms). I would normally shift at 7K since it seemed to still be making power at that rpm. However, my best et's were achieved with 6500 rpm shifts. Most dyno sheets I have seen with that cam show max hp at 6900. I don't like your carb or those heads, and I think you are running too much cr. A compcam 294S (solid flat tappet) might be a better setup for you. Plus a set of 64cc heads with 200cc ports would help.

Well then it sounds perfect for you. Hope you have better luck than I typically have with "used engines". Seems I always get the guys who swear they run great then only to find out the cylinders are worn and the heads are cracked. End up getting a block and some tin at an expensive price.

i bet your carb is vapor locking (fuel boiling in the bowls). Edelbrock says their aluminum carbs cool the fuel quicker after shut down but fail to mention that they also heat the fuel up quicker when running. hahahaha. If you have hood clearance for a 1 inch thick carb insulator it will help. Otherwise buy a Holley or q-jet, these carbs don't transfer as much heat to the fuel bowls. You could also close off the manifold exhaust crossover under the carb. I had 2 edelbrock carbs and threw them both in the trash. Edelbrock makes good intakes but bad carbs.

You story reminds me of when I tried to save money by buying an "old 327" and ending up spending more money. The chances that engine is any good is slim. A 350 will always make more power than a 327 when build the same way. If you rather make less power then you are getting the right engine.

I would past on the 327. get a newly rebuilt 350 with flat top pistons then add a set of 200cc dart iron eagle heads and a compcam 292H cam and make 450hp.

I would just use a holley 3310, 750 cfm with vac secondarys. A cheap, durable, and easy to tune carb. Plus they get much better mpg than a double pumper. my z ran 11.7's at 120 with a 3310, rpm intake, 292H compcam, 200cc darts. and 10.7's and 135 with a 175 hp n02 shot. also 6.9 at 110 in the 1/8 et's were slow for mph because i use gmt5 5 speed and i shifted it really slow so it wouldn't blow up. also had 11:1 cr, 362 cid (3.55 stroke x 4.030 bore, zero deck), full length headers, dual 2-1/2 pipes with hooker aerochambers, r200 3.90, 26 x 8 mt drag slicks, 71 240.

I run 2 inch on the turbo output then 2.5 from the ic to the throttle body. I'm using a T04B-h3 turbine and 12 to 14 psi of boost. The main reason for selecting that size is because it was easy. However, I don't think you will need more than 2 inch from the turbo. The ID on your turbo output is most likely less than 1.5 inches.

Not sure if it is crank or wheel. but I would guess his setup should make about 200 on the dyno.

Fast enough or not.... Low 12's and 120 mph on street tires seems to be the magic number, since the stock rear end setup starts to break things in the 11's. Comfort level in the car (AC, exhaust noise, idle, ect) can vary greatly when it comes to 11 and 12 second z's. As I got older, I slowly figured out the trick is to keep the car comfortable and make it fast. But, thinking back. I had the most fun in my 240 when it was only a high 12 second car. I ruined it for the street when it became a 10 second car. And that power made it dangerous.

comes out to 203hp with 2766 lbs, 98 mph, and using the above mentioned formula.

The biggest problem with a 383 in a Z is the balancer and flywheel. In most cases a 6 inch balancer and and 153 tool flywheel will be require for clearance reasons, especially if you use a T5 which needs the engine set back (JTR position). And most 383's are externally balanced which requires a counter weighted balancer and flywheel, and most all of those are 8 inch and 168 tooth versions. The simple fix is to use an internally balanced 383 kit, but it cost more. In any case, add in the cost of counter weighted end parts or internal balancing. A 350 with a good set of heads will run better than a 383 with stock heads. So spend the money on heads first, then on stroke.

Big enough for most applications. How much power are you trying to make?

If you plan to run a stock cam then don't say I didn't warn you when you detonate the engine and break a piston. A high compression L28 and a small cam is a bad combo. Good luck.

Use the head gasket that matches the block. A F54 block/P79 head combo is from a 81 to 83 280zx. The heads passages are all about the same but the blocks are very different. Yes, compression goes up with a N47 on a F54 block. Way up. To much for the stock cam. The cylinder pressure will be 220+ psi which is way past the safe limit for pump gas. If you plan on using a stock cam then use a P79 head. The P79 makes plenty of cr (8.8:1) for the tiny stock cam. If you plan to run an aftermarket cam, then use the N47. I would not use less than a 270 degree cam with that much cr. 280 or 290 degrees would be even better. A bigger cam (longer duration) requires more compression ratio because the intake valve closes much later than a stock cam, thus the motor captures less air to compress. On long duration cams, the intake valve is open for some period as the piston is rising up the bore to compress the charge, so the cylinder pressure is lower because it is "bled off". so a 10:1 engine with a 280 degree cam can have 180 psi of cranking pressure and a 8.8:1 cr engine can also have 180 psi if the cam is stock (248 degrees). But put the stock cam in the 10;1 engine and make 220psi. not good.

A carb will flow a set amount of fuel for a set amount of air passing through. One SU will be small for a l28 turbo but it will work well up to 4500 rpms (guessing). The hole on the su is about the same size as the turbo so it can't be that far off. However, the fuel bowl might get sucked dry if you don't use a boost sensitive fpr. I have seen one su used on a l24 turbo with good results. However, I don't know the setup details. Why not just use a holley 3310 750? A cheap carb that works nice on a draw through turbo. It just requires a simple modification to the secondary side so the secondarys open on boost. Need to use carbon seals in the turbo for a draw through setup. attached photos of a 1600 cc bug engine with a 3310 holley 750. ran high 11's with almost a stock engine, a big cam, 114 octane, and 14 psi of boost. Both pictures are the same engine but one photo has a custom header. It was just a shop play toy to have some fun at the local dragstrip.

Yes, those curves should get a motor head son a little more interested in math. Yes, that maybe be crank hp. I have seen it described as crank hp and as wheel hp, so I'm still not sure. But I'm leaning towards crank hp. I'm guessing a manual trans Z would have about 15% loss at the wheels

check out this site http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm

Not sure if G-tech is low or not. That formula is most likely off a little to. I have seen 4 or 5 different formulas for hp estimates from mph and weight, and the results do vary by a good amount (±20hp). The formula I used is the only one I remember right off the top of my head. I think maybe the formula I listed is more accurate in the higher mph ranges since it was made for real drag cars that tend to run at least 110 mph. But I did measure 275hp with my g-tech and ran 108 mph with my 2850 pound ride at the track. Using the formula it comes out to 280hp. Pretty close.

98 mph in the 1/4 mile with a 3000 pound car (2800 pounds plus 200 pound driver) takes 220 hp if you go by the following formula. hp = weight x (1/4 mile trap speed/234)**3 Your traction must be pretty bad. You should be running at least mid 14's with a 98 mph trap speed. For example, a 350z typically runs 14.0 at 100 mph. Try again with some fresh rear tires.

use the RPM intake and a 3310 holley (750 vac secondary). you need a 2500 stall with that cam. use ZDDP oil additive if you want the cam to live. Also break in the cam with only the outer springs.

I have done a few V8 conversions and I welded on a short piece of angle iron at the top of the pedal linkage (inside the car), then drilled a hole in the firewall so the cable has a straight shot to the carb linkage. Works well. Need to take the pedal out for welding.

I would use a th350 with a performance rebuild (clutches, shift kit, ect). Use a 3.90 gear diff and a 3000rpm stall. Use 10:1 cr, compcam 292H, and a 150hp shot of n02. Should run 10's at over 130 mph on n02 and 11's at 120 on the motor. I would use a first gen 350 with a good set of heads (dart iron eagle 200cc ports, 64cc chambers). The performer rpm intake and a 3310 holley 750 will also work well.

I would re-torque the heads bolts. Break each head bolt loose the re-torque to the correct spec (one at a time, using the correct head bolt torque pattern).

aeromotive fpr has a 1:1 ratio.

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