Pyro

I had a clogged line feeding my fuel pump on my 75. so I drained the gas tank, and drilled and tapped the stock drain port to a 1/4 npt thread. Then installed a 90 degree-3/8 hose barb fitting. Put on a clear plastic puralator filter with 3/8 barbs and mounted a fuel pump at the level of the tank bottom. works great until 1/4 tank, then I get fuel issue if I do quick changes in speed or direction. A 240 has a similar drain plug. The efi stock pump should work fine. A 2225 msd efi pump will also work well for cheap (90.00 to 100.00). use the old tank feed line as the return line. don't use aluminum fuel lines. the return line needs to be the same size or bigger than the feed line.

I see. good explanation!

The wastegate should be more or less closed until full boost, so I don't understand how too small of a wastgate port would delay boost. ???? I can see getting boost creep from too small of a wastegate but not a slow spool.

It seems the stage 3 turbine killed the low speed torque due to lack of boost at lower rpms (3000). A stock turbine works well with a stock cam. A modified turbine (stage 3 to 5) works well with a longer duration cam. What to4b compressor is that (s, v1/v2, h)?

A TO4E-50 trim is a good compressor for a L28. But it will need a 1/2 inch spacer to clear the manifold. If you are going to use the stock cam then use a stock L28 T3 turbine if you plan to use an aftermarket cam then open up the turbine a little to a stage 3 or so. However, a free flow turbine will make a boost come on later. So it sounds like a stock turbine will be best for you needs. (t3 0.63a/r). to make 350hp at the crank (300 at the wheels) then you will need about 20 psi of boost with a stock cam and a aftermarket efi system.

Yes, a tune will increase torque by a lot. 10:1 is very rich. try to get 12.7:1 at full throttle what does the ignition timing curve look like?? at what rpm does the turbo get full boost? a stage 5 turbine should be delaying boost and hurting low rpm torque. Only use a free flowing turbine (like a stage 5) with a bigger cam (more overlap). I use a stage 1 schnieder turbo cam and my engine pulls hard from 3000 to 6500. However, bigger cams have less low rpm torque. But, you can use more compression ratio with a bigger cam.

hooker still makes the datsun V8 conversion header (1-5/8), but they aren't set up for the JTR position. I got mine to fit in the JTR position but it took some fab work on the header. my z trapped 120 on the motor and 135 with n02 with these headers. I also tied a 1-3/4 inch hooker header for a 73 vette that looked pretty close but decided to use the V8 conversion headers. But I did see a vette set on a Z, which gave me the initial idea. I'm talking full length headers.

get this turbo, but without the kit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Turbo-Kit-Honda-Civic-D-D15-D16-92-00-T04E-50-TRIM_W0QQitemZ400017893623QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item400017893623&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_3018wt_1713

T04B is an old compressor design made for diesels. The s and v1/v2 trims are not much better than the stock T3, so not worth the upgrade. The H3 has a lot of hp potential but is on the verge of surge if boost comes on before 3500 rpm. I run a H3 myself because I got lazy and did't want to use a turbine spacer that the t04e requires. but my cam and turbine are big enough to delay boost until 3500 so it works for me (barely). However, my long term plan is to re-do with a t04e-50. check out this compressor site, then you will see what I mean. the to4e-50 is a really good compressor for the L28. http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/

also, a cam with longer duration will help reduce cylinder pressure. thus allowing more cr with your setup.

stock gasket is 1.25mm if you have 9.5:1 cr now then cr will go up to 9.8:1 with a 1mm gasket and drop to 8.9:1 with a 2mm. what is your current combo? block, pistons, head, cam, turbo???

What? how could you possibly damage the wiring in the house? The worst thing that can happen is the breaker will trip. Jesssss you guys are over thinking this. In most cases, the welder will pull less than 20 amps because full power welding is rarely used. I did electrician work for 4 or 5 years while going to college and did multiple side jobs for the last 15 years and numerous temp power setups (as described above).

Double tapping a breaker is not going to blow you up. either is making a little adaptor cable that uses two plugs. Sure it isn't code, but it gets the job done in a pinch. don't be afraidee cat.

you need 220V. That means two 110V lines in different phases. how many plugs do you have in your garage? If you have 2 plugs that are feed by 2 different breakers and they are on different phases, then you can use 2 plugs to power your 220v needs. use a volt meter and test between the hot side of 2 different plugs until you find 220V. The hot side is the smaller slot in the plug. other wise, you need to get into the breaker box.

avoid the T04B compressors (s, v1/v2, h2 trims). You need a T04E. However, the T04E will require a 1/2 inch spacer and therefore longer studs to work with the stock manifolds. If you want low rpm boost then use a stock L28 T3 exhaust turbine (.63 a/r). If the turbine is modified for more flow, then it will rise the boost rpm. A stock exhaust turbine works well with a stock cam. If you plan to install a bigger cam then modify the exhaust turbine flow to match the cam. T3 turbine's have ratings or stage 1 to stage 5 (not sure of the a/r's at each stage). For example, a stage 3 will typically will not make full boost on a L28 until 3500 rpm and works well with a cam that pulls to 6500 rpms. I would recommend a T04E-50 trim compressor. Seems to be a good fit for both low and high hp applications. I would buy a used stock L28et turbo and have the compressor changed at a turbo shop. And they can also modify the turbine if a bigger cam is to be used.

Wow! those headers look like a lot of work! How long are those header tubes? What was the reason for such a long tube? Trying to make low speed torque?

Yes, use much more timing and adjust mixture screws for best idle (highest vacuum) 20 initial then plug the vacuum advance into the manifold vacuum source. should be idling at 30 to 35 degrees at idle with the vacuum advance. that cam needs a 1000 rpm idle speed and should have around 12 inhg of vacuum at that rpm.

Why would you consider a 327 more fun to drive? less torque is more fun? my 350 spins up to 7200. it's the cam that makes revs not the stroke when comparing a 327 to a 350. A cliff q-jet is very good. but cost 500.00 and will take 6 months to get. I have called cliff and asked. A 3310 750 holley is 1/2 the price and can be had in a few days. overlap doesn't bleed off compression. the engine isn't even trying to make compression on that part of the cycle. A longer duration cam with a later closing intake valve is what bleeds cylinder pressure. 11:1 isn't a problem with a 292H compcam. I full full timing in my 11;1 350 with 93 octane without any issues. (3.90 gear and T5 trans) Roller have quicker ramps so a cam with the same at 0.050" numbers will have less advertised duration which makes more cylinder pressure as compared to a flat tappet cam. so, rollers work better with less compression, not more.

just as well. why reinvent the wheel? just buy a complete L28 turbo engine and get all the stuff you will need. plus, a L28 is better than a L24 any day.

I used a universal sway bar bushings and bolt kit for my diff mount.

you want to limit the travel so when the wheels come back on the ground there isn't a bunch of negative chamber in the front. You know, when you jack up the car and the front wheels tuck under the car. keeping the wheels straight takes less energy when they touch the ground after the lift.

longer durations cams need more initial timing. But you would need to reduce the advance amount in the distributor so you don't over advance at the top end. If you want throttle response off idle, then initial timing is very important.

reduce the amount of advance and use 24 initial and 32 total. (4 degrees in the distributor = 8 at the crank). you could also install a bigger cam. this will allow more total timing due to lower cylinder pressure from a later intake valve closing point. a cam with 280 to 290 degrees would be ideal for your compression ratio and use about 36 degrees total.

Set the front up soft and the rear hard. use very stiff springs and struts in the rear. furthermore, little positive chamber in the standing position is good for off the line traction in an irs car. use soft, thin wire springs (lots of travel) in the front with stock struts and remove the front sway bar. plus, use skinny tires up front and fatties in the rear. Use fresh rubber. MT drag slicks work great. Try to lighten the front end as much as possible. Try moving the battery to the rear. use light weight engine parts (radiator, water pump, heads, intake, if you have a v8) remove the passenger seat if possible. along with spare tire, jack, beer cans......

I'm sure the idle speed went up when you plugged in the vacuum advance. and since you didn't adjust the throttle means more air into the carb from a higher vacuum with the same amount of fuel. Next time, compare a/f using the same idle speeds. And readjust idle mixture screws for best idle (highest vacuum) with each timing change. yes, a lot of timing at idle allows the engine to run leaner. low timing at idle is an emissions thing.