SRRTz

That's an R200, R180s have a bolted on retainer/flange where the axle stubs enter the diff

PM'ed

I've got a wastegate flapper/housing.

Stock thickness is 107.9mm or 4.24803 inches

Second one. The first is for a 240, 260, or 280z.

Check the map sharing thread in the FAQ section, you're info should be there...

I used a HF model for 4+ years before it just died on me one morning. Picked up a low-end adjustable darkness Miller for $73.00 from cyberweld.com that I have been using for a little over a year now. The HF helmet worked great when I was just doing minor rust repairs on the zed. The Miller helmet is lighter and I feel like I can see the arc better so I prefer it now that I'm doing more TIG welding and heavy rust repairs. But, for a beginner (I'm assuming) doing some straight forward welding, the HF helmet works great.

I paid $200 plus shipping for a set a few months ago

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We used Rust Bullet on most of the underbelly of my 280 and are planning to spray the entire underside of my dad's Barracuda when sheet metal replacement is finished. On the 280 all we did was wire wheel off the surface rust and old paint then wipe the surface down with lacquer thinner before brushing on Rust Bullet. Four years of driving in salty gulf coast air on semi-crappy roads and there are no signs of peeling or chipping. On another note, my uncle's Road Runner was coated with por15 several years ago and it is holding up great as well. However, his car was on a rotisserie so access for prep work was far easier compared to cleaning up a car on jack stands... Ultimately I would recommend the Rust Bullet solely because the prep work is a little less intensive but por15 will get the job done just as well (when the surface is prepared properly for its application)

Ordered one from Courtesy Parts last spring p/n:12309-V0800 According to my notes it is 15mm longer and still has the deep bolt head with dimple for a puller.