240z!!!

the fuel pressure is perfect also replaced the fpr and filter...cause i had an extra and also cleaned the injectors and checked for leaking ones...none of them are leaking...no i havent checked the timing with a light yet...on the other hand the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-1 counterclockwise and isnt #1 suppost to be the one facing the driver side fender...(the one closest to you if your looking directly at the engine bay on the drivers side?) becuase this cars #1 was the one closest to the motor and when i put the wires on that way it wouldnt fire but when i put them where i thought it should be it fired up? also is the turbo suppost to spool up to 3-5 lbs. when the car is in park and rps are inbetween 1700-2000? i thought a turbo wouldnt spool up but underload....what would cause this?

the zx alt swap is easy take off the old alternator regulator....then unbolt your alt....swap it with the zx alt....plug it up....then you'll need to make 2 small jumpers and bridge the yellow and white wire and then bridge the black w/ white stripe and white w/ black striped wire inside the old regulator connection....and if its a 240z then you have to sader in at least a 1 amp 50 volt diode inline with the bottom wire in the "T" connector or the car wont cut off with a key...if its a 280z then disregard the this last part.....if youve done all this then you either have a bad connection or bad alt. or battery.....oh and one thing that i found helpful was to go get some 8+ guage wire like car stereo wire and reground everything....cause honestly look at the ground on the back of the alt....that doesnt ground efficently....hope this helps

i forgot one big detail....whenever i was giving the turbo car gas it wouldnt go any higher than 1700-2000 rpms spitting and sputtering and missing but everytime i got it up that high i could hear the turbo spooling up and reading about 3-5lbs (and this while in "park".....is this bad b/c i was pretty sure turbo's dont spool up until 2500-3000 rpm under load....depending on there size?

the stock hp of a l28et is 200ish id say with a intercooler better turbo and some fine tuning....maybe some bigger injectors and megasquirt you could easily be at 250+ reliably....

im completely lost on the 280z's heater problem....if anyone can help? as for the turbo car...i went and messed with it today...i thought i had plans but they got cancled....i done some reseach and found out the production month and year was 8/81....the previous owner said it was a 83 with a manual guage swap...and i found the door identification plate underneath the carpet..... so i checked the distributor and of coarse it was wrong...the rotor button was forced on in a different direction....changed that cleaned all the connections got new plugs and wires...and it fired up.....bad thing is now that it will idle great...but when you hit the gas any and i mean any it starts choking out and jumping around horribley....and after you release the gas it almost dies then goes back to normal idle....i was trying to play with it a little and it was backfiring out of the exhuast now....it backfired so hard one time little pieces of crud started to come out of the tailpipe....my hope is that its the muffler and not the turbo.....but it stopped after a minute....but at least it idles now so i can get it warm and mess with it then.....does anyone have any suggestions on what to mess with next? im really stumpped the only thing i havent done is replace the vacuum lines but i have cut the hard ends off of every one of them and reconected them so that they actually seal and then checked for leaks with some carb cleaner....didnt find any...oh and i swaped the egr valve with one i know thats good with no luck....and also switched the coil out with a blaster 2 i had lying around and it didnt do anything either

the most direct swaps are the L-series...l20, l24, l26, l28 l28et....but in my opinion the next closest thing would be the rb series....but this still requires some custom work...like driveshaft and mounting...but if you cant custom make mounts or a driveshaft....then there are tons of companys who make custom mounts, customs driveshafts, and custom wiring...for almost any motor swap into these cars...

it starts fine it just wont idle.....timing was my next plan of attack but i dont have a timing light....and dont really have the money to rent one right now...ill just have to do it by hear for now....but i didnt think about the egr being bad....i have another one and ill switch it out....ive already checked the coil...but i forgot about the ignitor....could it cause this also? and ive checked most of all the fuses and cleaned alot of connections including the ecu connections

no then the valves arent getting stuck then b/c has good compression and the valve train doesnt make noise.....well i wont be able to work on it again until wednesday so keep the ideas coming...thanks oh and um last time i messed with it it wouldnt stay idleing and it had some sputtering....if you rev'd it to 2000 rpms then it was fine but anything under that and it would start to sputter more and more until it died....it smells of gas horibley but it backfires through the intake only which i thought it meant that it was lean? it honestly acts like its getting to much gas then floods its self out?

actually there have been extensive tests that have explained in detail why they cant be over here....1 reason being smog.....but the biggest reason is that it didnt pass our crash standards....those cars cant with stand any impact to the doors....so if you get t-boned...your screwed.....there is a company that redoes these cars in california the right way...he put stonger supports in the bumpers and he puts supports in both the doors and also stiffens the chassie.....i forgot the name of the company but you can probably find them on google...but they arent cheap....i think it was 10xxx for a titled body with no motor or trans with the crash stardard upgrades.....or one with the motor and trans(with the adjustments for smog and the adjustments for air quality and elevation) for 20xxx...dont quote me but its close

so ive checked everything electric wise and everythings good....im gonna get my injectors flow tested some time soon....i also thought about having a stuck valve....im pretty sure it has hydrolic lifters....whats the best way to check if the valves are stuck....and were could i get the kit to put in solid lifters cause i have a set off a p90? anyone know about the heater problem in the 280z?

i dont know about legality either but i garantee that those harnesses are 1000 times safer than the stock 240z lap belts from the 70's and 10 times safer than the 280z belts

so i have 2 problems and decided to put them in one post... first....im helping my buddy fix it 280z's heater....we fixed all the vacuum lines and cleaned the connections for the blower motor and what do you know it worked...but when you turn it on you only get heat out of the defroster vents but when you turn the heat on for the front vents it comes out cold....could this be the flap not working? and is that flap opened with a vacuum diagram? second....i recently got a 280zx turbo and it has a slight motor problem.....when ever you turn it on it sounds like my 240z with carbs and it backfires from the intake....whenever you drive it, it only drives about 4 miles then overloads it self with gas...but ive taken the injectors off idividually and checked to see if any of them were leaking when i put fuel pressure to them and they dont...the motor has excellent compression and the turbo is perfect....i havent checked the timing yet but the timing hasnt been touched so i doubt thats it....my guess was the tps or the afm but i dont know yet.....i just thought id post it while im fixing it just to see if anyone had anything like it

i just gotta say....that car cleans up good....

i think it would work but not as good as it sounds....it wouldnt have a good money to power ratio....but just remember some guy stuck a leaf blower in his intake and got some boost....id just stick with a turbo

i want one!!!! actually 2 cause my buddy wants one also.....pm me with pics or post them up if you can....

im sorry i thought you meant it like the only reason your car was running bad was b/c your timing was off.....when everyone told you it was your charging system.....i get what your saying now....but in all seriousness i dont think your timing would be effected...

unless you moved the distributor or changes the sparkplugs around or the timing chain messed up then your timing is fine........that crankshaft pulley just drives your alternator, waterpump, powerstearing, a/c.....and probably the only reason its running ruff is cause of your alternator not charging.....which has been said 3 times.....why ask questions if your not gonna listen?

you said it was a manual trans.....why are you talking about an automatic?

200-300 is junkyard prices and is a really good price for a decent running motor.....but more likely to be more if they know what they have....and if my memory serves me correctly the turbo 280zx's had cv axles with a 3.7 r200 with can be swapped in a 240z for an easy upgrade....not including the bw t5 which which is a good transmision....although 240k miles is a lot but you have all the essintials to do the swap which if you had to source those parts individually it would be a fortune....id say it worth it b/c the motor trans diff and axles...plus if any of the parts are good on the 280zx you could part it out and make some money or all your money back...my 2cents

yeah its battery powered and it takes 3 tripple a's...sorry for thread jacking....but i have been patiently waiting for some updates on this thread

actually you can get a 9 led mini light thats metal and fits in the palm of your hand from advanced auto parts and its only 2.99 i think....it looks like its the exact size of the under the hood light and can probably be easily modified to be powered by the original wires so you can still unraval it and move it to where you want to....fyi i bought this flashlight im talking about and its freaking bright and the batterys never go dead

i like the ones that have the tape messure beside them any of these kind of fit my idea

im about to do the same thing for my car....my idea was to get the stacks and some of that foam looking filter stuff and some net wire mesh and make some individual filters on each of the stacks that dont protrude from them and just goes over the front and have the net wire mesh hold the filter pieces on....fyi that foam filter can be bought at any hardware store for cheap and be cut to any shape you want

go to a car dealership....go pop all the hoods in there and tell me how many have crossflow heads and how many dont? you kind of contridicted yourself b/c port geometry....has a whole lot to do with crossflow or non....noncrossflow limits everything...how you make your ports the angles it even limits you on how much you can bore out the ports cause they have to make the water sleeves thinner to fit in the intake and exhuast ports on one side....you can only squeeze in so big of a port....unless you have a foot tall head....come on they make honda 4 banger motors that make 200 hp stock without a turbo...and everyone of them are crossflow.... heres an example...(im gonna make an imaginary head) say you have a completely blank p90 head...(i dont know any of the exact dementions so im just gonna throw some numbers out for my example)....say the head is 120mm tall..now if you have it non crossflow you cant have the ports touching so you have them say 20mm apart and say the water jackets are 10mm thick inside the port....lets not forget that they have to be centered away from the top and bottom(which really really limits the port angles and geometry) lets say 20mm...so you can only make your port hole size 30mm apiece and can only port it out safely to 35mm without busting through the water jacket....not including the port angle and geometry being forced to be one way from lack of space.... or lets say you have the same 120mm p90 head thats crossflow that you could make your port angles and port geometry any where you want because you have all this space thats not been taken up from other set of ports....and lets just say the port size is 60mm with a water jacket of 20mm inside the port with 20mm of room on top and bottom so its exactly in the middle....so you could bore this heads exhaust and intake ports safely out to 70 + and be ok..... all this is also not including the shape and geometry of the intake and exhuast manifolds being also limited because of space on the noncross flow head.....and can be made to almost unlimited posiblities on the crossflow (the almost stands for how much money your willing to spend) which one do you think you could pull more power with? again im not trying to hate on this motor....but then again its 30 year old technology....back then this was the 2jz of the motors but now its not...life goes on...(end of rant)

everyone has fail to mention the big part....we are talking about a z car not the 240sx so the ka would have to be bought... ka 2.4 ltr. dohc na (i dont think any one wants a sohc) makes 160 horses sr 2.0 ltr. dohc turbo (specifically built for turbo) make 205 stock horses l28 2.8 ltr. sohc (na and turbo are built the same except the heads...unless you have the p79 block which came with flattop pistons....not to mention this is 30 year old technology and is limited in flow....there is no replacement for displacement except money.... id say it cost 300 or so for a ka including tranny thats low mileage b/c everyones jerking them out for sr swaps....parts are easliy avaliable and quite cheap....but you would have to have everything to turbo it and tune it so lets just say it was built well for 1500 thats 1800 sr now i got my whole swap for 1000 thats everything needed to straight drop it in and go (in a 240sx) but if you just buy one from a company you could get a decent deal on one for 1800 shipped (thats for the older redtop) now include mounts and a custom driveshaft, if your good with a welder you could do the mounts and wiring yourself...if your not then thats big bucks$$$$.... now the l28's are cheap....well unless you already have a 280z then you already have 1....but this is 30 year old technology....parts are considerably more expensive because of age....but it already has decent potential and is a straight bolt in.....but the big disadvantage is it doesnt have a crossflow head which limits the motor even more... now all are decent motors....can easily reach anywhere from 200-400 horsepower but after that are limited.....now if you want to stay in the nissan family and have good power go get a rb26 and be done with it....or just make a rb30dett and then laugh whenever someone argues about which is better the ka or the sr...... but in all serious it is funny as h*ll to beat a corvette and then see the look on there face when you say its a 4 banger....priceless but im not hating on any motor b/c ive had all of these sometimes theyre a hit or miss...ive seen someone throw a ka-t together in one night and run it ragged for years then again ive also seen ppl strickly build them up and blow them three months later....same with the sr's....id honestly say go with a l28et or a rb for simplisity.....sorry so long of a thread