j260z

if you are planning to go to a V8 you will want to beef up the rear springs anyway so the squat won't become that much of an issue.

i would also mention that, with the added horsepower and torque of an LT1 going into my car, i like the idea of rear discs because if i do break a stub axle there is still something holding the rear wheel onto the car... other than the emergency brake cable and brake line.

Ross at modern motorsports has a packaged setup for the 300zx rotor and toyota 4x4 brakes. check it out here http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=48

check out http://www.modern-motorsports.com.

finally, maybe we can make a difference!! say yes to change! say no to chrome!!

i wish!!

i have, and will be running 10s when my car is back on the road.

i just got the longer ones cause they cover more of the strut tube up and, of course, they look cool . you could argue that they weigh more but we're only talking ounces.

i'm partial to the blue z myself. the problem with black, or any of the darker colors, is that they show dirt and scratches very easily. i'm a big fan of bright colors so i say go with the orange or silver. here is another silver 240 http://home.flash.net/~joeao/greg/zcar.html . as far as no front bumper, you would have to check the local laws to see if you can drive around without one. for me i'm still fighting with the idea of using a fiberglass bumper because if you do get into an accident there is nothing there to protect my z.

my stock bodied, triple webered, 2 1/2" exhaust 260z hit 132 mph with the 4 speed tranny. that was good enough for me considering the car felt like the front wheels were just touching the ground. any improvement to the front air dam will make a dramatic difference to the high speed handling, or lack there of, over stock.

i believe the 95 LT1 is still OBD1. the change over is in 96.

definately!!! if it takes you an extra year to find a rust free car you'll probably save more than that much time fixing it.

PaulR, your're using an automatic tranny though right? i will be using the T56 so i think if i were to move the engine back any more i might compromise the placement of the shifter in the car. otherwise i could move the engine back another inch at least because the LT1 has the front mount distributor.

i would definately pump some new gas through the system (could be bad gas or condensation in tank), change the oil and filter (could be condensation in the block from sitting), pull all the spark plugs and check the gap, squirt a bit of ATF into each cylinder before putting the plugs back in (this will help with compression on start up and also lubricate the cylinder walls), and check the radiator. that's all i can think of.

definately sounds like a charging system problem. your lights take up enough juice that your system cannot fire the spark plugs. check the voltage regulator. i'm not sure whether the zx's had internal or external regulators.

i'm not using square tubing anywhere. instead of using the aluminum spacer, i'm going to use 3 pieces of 1" round steel stock with the center drilled out which will be tig welded to the setback plates.

hopefully that will be the perfect solution. let me know if you can't find a set of insulators. i think i have a pair sitting around gathering dust.

Muskrat, yes, they are for the standard sbc. i just reshaped the JTR ones so they wouldn't look mismatched to the chevy motor mounts. the reason i'm looking at welding 1" round bar stock on for the spacers is because, 1) i don't think there will be much difference in weight between those and the aluminum spacers and any difference will be made up by what i removed from the origional plates. 2) i would rather have 1 piece of metal that looks like it belongs there than have a motor mount bolted to a slab of steel which is used to sandwich a piece of aluminum to the engine block.

what year car is it? if it is a 280z then you should have the tall strut isolators on it. if that is the case, you should be able to replace the front isolators with ones from a 240 and that should lower your front end by about 3/4" or so.

bump

a problem with the wheel not coming back down sounds like a spring issue. what setup are you using? if it is a stock setup it could be that the spring has broken or come out of its perch somehow. if you are running coilovers it could be that the bottom adjustable perch has come loose and the spring is no longer under tension. that being said, there must be another factor considering the strut won't return under its own weight.

check out pete paraska's site http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm lots of good info

i've been working on a file for my setback plates to send to the laser cutters and was wondering what you think. i was thinking of then welding on pieces of 1" bar stock as spacers, then drilling them out. with this setup i think i can drop some decent weight from the plates compared to the JTR ones. i was wondering if i could remove some of the middle of the plates, in a triangular pattern, to further reduce the weight or whether that would weaken the plates too much?

check out this site. http://www.fastassdatsun.com/ if you want to do something like this you had better have deep pockets!!!

if you didn't use the spacers and it works well did you guys still have to elongate the holes in the motor mounts?