j260z

there shouldn't be. the engines sit in the exact same location and use the same fan clutch.

that does look cool!!

i stole that picture from ON3GO but i have the same kit with the exception that my threaded aluminum tube (the red piece in the picture) is 8" long and blue. i got the kit from Ross Corrigan at http://www.modern-motorsports.com. it is a great product and Ross really knows his stuff. i just finished helping ON3GO get his assembled in this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25653.

i'm not sure what size hole you have to drill but it should be no bigger than it has to be to get that knob through. the strut only has to go through the isolator far enough for the threaded section to get through. that should be around 1 to 1.5 inches. the only other thing you have to remember to put on before you tighten everything up is the bump stop rubber that came in your urethane suspension kit. it goes on the strut shaft right after you tighten up the gland nut.

sorry, when i posted Dans reply wasn't there so i guess the knobs don't come off.

man you guys reply so fast i'm out of date before i can get a reply typed out. i started my last reply before there were any comments. thanks for the compliments. i wouldn't have been able to do any of this if it wasn't for my wife (we own a photography company and she's the photographer) and about $11,000 of equipment... and i can't for the life of me figure out how come i don't have any money for my z project.

the coilover kit does not come with the bearings. there should have been a bearing in each of your front struts when you disassembled them. the rears should have had a rubber bushing in them that is roughly the same size as the front bearings. the reason the fronts have bearings and the rears don't is because the front wheels turn. even if you do find the old bearings from the front struts, i would replace them because they are probably old and need to be replaced. Nissan still stocks the front bearings but does not stock the rear bushings. i'm in Canada but i don't think the stock numbers would change. the number for the bearing is 54325-21000. you will need two of them. as for the rear bushings, search through your parts and see if you can't find them. they may even still be stuck to the inside of the strut isolator, that's where i found mine. if you can't find them anywhere i have 3 extras. here is a picture of the bearing and bushing. and here is a picture of them in the strut isolator. the bearing has to go in this way or it will not work right. if you follow the picture you can't go wrong. did you find out how the adjustable knob comes off the strut yet?

i don't think there is a single Z on this site without a ZX part on it somewhere.

for a turbo application, there really isn't much room for the downpipe from the turbo with the engine in the stock position. with 4" less room you would definately be looking into some serious fabrication.

me too!

OK. firstly take a nice deep breath... in through the nose... 1... 2... 3... and out through the mouth... 1... 2... 3... . now that we have relaxed, we'll begin. here is a picture of what the assembly should look like. you can see ,in order from bottom to top, 1) the spring. 2) the upper spring retainer. 3) 2 washers. (there should be between 1 and 3 washers)(we'll get to that later). 4) strut bearing. (front only)(the rears are just rubber bushings). here is a picture with the strut isolator on. the isolator just sits on top of the bearing and washers which in turn sit on a lip just below the threaded portion of the strut rod. notice that the upper spring retainer can move up and down the strut rod. here is another picture with the isolator on. notice that there is a gap between the isolator rubber and the upper spring retainer. this is where the 1 to 3 washers come in. you'll notice in my setup i use 2 washers. i'll explain with these next pictures. disregard the fact that the first isolator is from a 280z and the second from a 260z. if you compare them you will see that in the second picture the rubber lip has been cut off of the isolator. if you keep your isolator stock, like the first picture, you will need to use 3 washers to maintain that gap between the isolator and the upper spring retainer. what i did is cut the rubber down to where the steel is and was able to get away with using only 2 washers. if you wanted you could cut away at the steel about 1/8 of an inch and get away with one washer. you need at least one washer on the front suspension because the bearing needs something, other than the upper spring retainer, to rotate against when you turn the steering wheel. as far as the adjustable dial on the top of the strut, i do not have mine ordered yet so i cannot comment on them but i'm sure that they must come off somehow in order to get the isolator on. i know that you don't want to alter your strut isolator because that D shaped hole in it is what allows you to tighten and loosen the nut that holds the strut in. without that flat spot on the side you couldn't get the nut tight because the whole strut would be able to spin freely. i hope this helps.

you forgot the most important reason to go to coilovers!!! they look cool!!

the only real way to keep him out of trouble is to keep him educated as to proper driving techniques. that is what will get you killed no matter what HP your car produces. if you can make it cool and fun to learn how to drive a car properly you have won. i think everyone on this site has had a few learning experiences related to stupid mistakes with too much HP or speed ,and he probably will also, but if you can instill in him a healthy respect for his car i believe he will be less inclined to bow to peer pressure when driving. the other thing, in my opinion, that will help is doing a lot of the work on the car himself. this will give him a sense of pride and accomplishment in this project. when you have a vested interest in your vehicle you tend to take care of it. i believe that the ricer crowd, in general, have this drive it like you stole it mentality because all they have to do is pay someone to make their car fast rather than invest any time, sweat and blood into their projects. just my $0.02.

that frame looks like the pairakooks frame from the fastassdatsun site. what they did was chop off the whole frame and bottom of a datsun and basically put the shell back onto a frame. although it adds the ability to use the corvette suspension and any size of wheel and engine they like it also adds a considerably larger amount of money to the project. very cool project but also very pricey.

i love those cars. i have owned 4 of those in my past all 74's. another option i was looking at when i had mine was an 18RGU which, if memory serves, is a twin cam version of the engine that is in the car now. i had a buddy that put one in a TR7 with a small turbo and water injection that could blow the doors off anything we came across in 1987 when he had it running.

there would be no advantage to going to a 240/260z strut if you already have a 280 strut. like auxilary said all you need to do is swap the strut isolators from a 240/260 over to your 280. one of the advantages to coilovers is the ability to adjust ride height easily by adjusting the spring perch. if you get longer springs with your kit you can always lower the perch and get the car to the height you want.

the adapter is countersunk so the companion flange fits into it and is then welded into place. this makes for a much stronger unit and uses less bolts. as far as the stub axles are concerned i'm not sure which ones came in the early 260 because i had one of each but here is a picture that will show you how to easily tell which ones you have. note: if you are planning on using 280z companion flanges (which is recomended) you will have to use 280z stub axles also because the spline counts are different between the 240 and 280 units.

cool! i'll add that to my notes.

for Ross's conversion you need to have the 4 bolt flange on the 300zx cv's for this to work. if you have the 6 bolt cv's like the ones on the 280zxt cv's in the picture then you will not be able to flip the assembly. here is a picture of the end of the cv that this ball and cage assembly is in. all you have to do is remove the housing.you do this by removing the rubber seal and then taking out retaining ring that keeps the ball and cage in the housing.(dead simple once you get the rubber off.) you will now be at the stage in this picture. now all you need to do is take off the circlip that holds the assembly onto the shaft and tap the assembly off, flip it around and reinstall. this should shorten the shaft about 3/8 of an inch. reassemble the shaft and you are done.

as far as i have been able to surmise the only car the R200 3.36 diff came on is the 280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200). i have heard rumors that it also came on some 260Z 74 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200) but i am not convinced yet.

from my experience there is no if you screw it up!!! it's more of a when you screw it up!!

could you put a life sized picture up on this thread so i could print off four copies and stick them to my wheels? that's about the only way i will be getting a set of those in the near future. those are awesome.

i only hear from him sunday evenings. he is working like mad at his real job during the week.

the new sport bikes are running a setup close to that. the big problem the bike manufacturers were running into was that the rpm range was too big for one set of injectors to be able to handle the range. like tim said, they use one set of injectors so they can keep a nice smooth idle and low throttle response and then when they get upto around 9000 rpm the other throttlebody injectors come online. i'm pretty sure the show i was watching on it mentioned that at the higher rpms the injectors were firing about 400 times per second!!!

is that a two stage injection system for the L28 engine? if so that is very cool!!!