j260z

i think that would be near impossible. you would have to cut the pieces off, very carefully so as to keep a nice straight edge, then once they were chromed, you would have to re-weld them back to the frame rails. the process of re-welding them would mar the finish....unless....you sand blasted the entire front up to the firewall, picked the car up by the back bumper and dipped it into the chroming tank.

utvolman99, could you post a picture of that fan? and what year tempo did it come out of? the reason i ask is that in the JTR manual they show one that has a slightly different shroud than the two that i have found. it has two mounting tabs on the top of the shroud which makes the install cleaner and more professional looking.

check out this thread http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24231

that dash looks cool! there's only one problem with it, where do you put your coffee now?

check out this link. http://www.heidts.com/heisinfo.htm i'm currently working on installing a mustang II suspension in a 64 Mercury Comet so i can easily fit a 5.0 HO. the more info i read on this suspension setup the more i think of trying it out on a Z.

that's the exact fan i just picked up at the junkyard yesterday. i got one for $14 CAD.

tough call. Ross's arms are engineered and AZCars arms are race proven. if they are the same price and both easily adjustable on car then i think it would have to come down to which set looks cooler.

a lot of the chevy truck rads, along with the caprice rad, are too long to fit in the z.the radiator can't be longer than the width between the frame rails, which is about 26". you should really get a copy of the JTR manual as it contains a lot of information on this topic not to mention many others. as far as fans go i think the taurus setup is probably one of the best. you have to be careful when looking for the right fan. you need to find one with 3 wires going into the motor (2 speed fan) as opposed to the 2 wire version (1 speed fan) which is found in earlier taurus's and most tempos. to top that, i also found that there are at least two different 2 speed versions of the taurus fan. one has a fan diameter of about 16 1/2" and the other is about 15".

well, we can only hope that you still check in once in a while to keep us on track and answer a few questions. it's better to burn out than it is to rust.

that looks good except for the control arms. don't get me wrong, i think that the Arizona Z car arms are awesome, but they are also pricey. if i were you i would contact Ross at MML about control arms first. i know he has been working on a set for quite a while now. either way, it doesn't hurt to get another quote.

that is a cool valve cover, but i don't think i'd pay an extra $5500 dollars for it!!!

the shifter placement won't be a problem if you just move the engine forward 9 1/2"!!! LOL

definately needs to be lowered 1" but when you do it'll look sweet!!!

if you want to do it right then check out this site http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm these panels are designed to be replica parts but stronger.

Awesome!!! now i have to try and sell my 2 sets of z31 5 lug hubs!!

the master cylinder should be bench bled before it is installed and then there is an order you have to bleed the brakes in. i can't remember what it is but will try to find it for you. when you mentioned idle surge, did you mean that the engine idle surges when you depress the brake? another thing to check is whether you have the one way valve in properly on the vacuum line to the booster.

who needs a torque wrench!! i just tighten up the bolts until they strip and then back them off half a turn!! LOL sorry, i couldn't resist.

here is a link to greg krings site. http://home.flash.net/~joeao/greg/zcar.html if you click on the link for R200 it will put you into a directory for pictures ( kind of odd) but there are pictures of the VLSD unit and cv shaft differences. not the best site for diffs but it may help.

first off, welcome to the club. i don't think you'll find another site with anywhere near the amount of knowledge and experience about Zs and modifications to them on the net. that being said, we have seen your questions more than a few hundred times. if you could please read this thread i think you will find the answer to all your questions and more. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24170 anything you can't find be sure to ask and someone here will be glad to help.

This is what i managed to find so far. R-200 diff from an 86 300zx turbo with cvs for $50. R-200 moustache bar for $20. new boots and grease in the cv's $40. MML Z31T cv adapters $215. 280z stub axles $60. Total so far $385. This is what i hope to add. MML Quaife LSD unit $1990. Total $2375. give or take shipping.

one thing i have noticed is that there are more of the auto trannys (4L60E) in the junkyards than manual ones (T5, T56). so if you are needing to replace a tranny or get parts it would also be cheaper to go auto.

if you do make a set be sure to take pictures. i'd be interested in seeing how they turn out.

that is unreal those welds are fantastic! if the radiator doesn't take up too much space you should be able carry a full set of spare tires! one in the back, two on either side of the engine and one between the engine and rad!! and talk about low centre of gravity!!! very cool!!!

that is an excellent article and actually backs up a lot of information i have received from mechanics and friends. when i bought my new Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS the salesman told me that Subarus break in policy is essentially "drive it like you stole it!!". their reasons being, if something is going to break it will, under warranty, and the engine should be broken in along the same lines as the way it will be normally driven. i've got 33,000 kms on it so far and not a single problem. as far as what oil to use, it makes sense. my buddy with a CBR 600 was told not to use synthetic for the first oil change because the engine simply won't break in, there is not enough friction generated with synthetic.

you took the question right out of my mouth! I was thinking the only reason not to would be stress related but if you were to make the spacers and setback plate as one unit you could always make the plate thicker and thin the spacers to compensate. i think that would make for a much cleaner looking unit, not to mention slightly lighter. one other thing would be whether the threads in the aluminum, where the motor mounts bolt up, would hold up.