j260z

nice work. it's refreshing to see that stock clock location being used rather than just holding a clock that doesn't keep time.

nice setup. did you screw the threaded tube to the strut to stop it from rotating?

$400 to upgrade to 280z stub axles and companion flanges? or is there some other upgrade you are looking at.

i had a 2002 Frontier that colour before my Dodge 2500 4x4 Turbo Diesel. it was gutless but i loved the colour. i think it will make a good z colour also.

i have rebuilt a couple of sets myself and there really is nothing to them. the hardest part was cleaning off the surface rust so i could paint them afterwards. if you are mechanically inclined i would recommend you try it and save yourself some money. if for some weird reason they don't work, you can always turn them in for some rebuilt ones afterwards.

what do you mean by new components. most of the aftermarket kits offered are just reconfigurations of existing parts that have already been tested and approved for other applications. in the case of the z series cars, i have yet to see a brake modification that didn't add to the safety of the vehicle.

sounds like your shocks are on their last legs. your springs might be getting a little tired but i would bet on needing new shocks.

cool! I'm out in Priddis. if you are not a member of the Calgary Z Club you should check it out. you can get between 15 to 20% off parts at Sunridge and Brasso Nissan and there are a bunch of guys with spare parts around.

$700 sounds like a load of crap. find out how much remanufactured calipers will run you and how much you get for your cores. if you are confident in your mechanical abilities i can't see removing and reinstalling a set of rear calipers taking more than an afternoon. even if you take your car in to a mechanic i can't see them charging more than 3 hours to r & r them.

Where are you moving to? I know a couple of good guys around Calgary if you need some help.

those panels look great. one less part to try and find at the JY. i like the clean lines. keep up the good work.

there should be a stamping on the side of the calipers. it should say something like S12W or something like that ( it's been a while since i've looked and i'm going from memory) depending on what year truck you got them from. as far as rebuild parts, i found that the Toyota dealer actually had all the parts in one kit and it was just over half the price of the other kits i had found. i was suprised because that was the first time i had actually bought parts from a dealer because they were cheaper.

great work! I love the viper/ vette style hood separation. definately worth the effort.

some pics would be nice.

evilc do you have any pics of the rails and jack plates installed. i would love to see how they look on the car as i'm leaning towards the same setup to strengthen my frame and i'd rather not buckle the new rails by jacking up on the frame.

you guys have done a fantastic job on these lights. just the kind of cure for the older technology in these cars. it's this kind of thinking and attention to detail that makes this site exceptional.

nice looking car!! i think the zg flares would look good but i would try to incorporate the grey from the hood into the colour (canadian eh!) of the flares.

here is a link to the install of the z31 shafts http://www.magshooterz.com/z31_cv_conversion.htm the shafts are of different lengths because the differential is offset to the drivers side therefore the shorter shaft goes on the drivers side and the longer on the passenger side. you could try putting two of the shorter shafts in but you may get tired of the passenger side shaft popping out of the differential whenever the suspension is used.

i just had the same experience just a week ago. my front left strut was rusted in. i ended up drilling a 1/4" hole in the bottom and used a punch to drive it out. i had to hang the strut in my vise so it rested on the cast part where the spindle joins the strut tube, do not clamp the vise to the tube, and pound the crap out of the strut. after three good whacks it started to move. you would not believe the amount of rust that came out. after that was done i just welded up the hole again. the one thing that i didn't do was try and let some wd-40 penetrate through some of the rust.

any 260z made after august 74 will have the bigger bumpers and the 280z struts and conversely any 260z made before august 74 will have the 240z struts and bumpers.

i've been away for a while because i've been so busy with house building and having a baby. i'm finally back to working "normal hours" (60 hours a week). i'm just getting back to my z now and i can tell you it's amazing how much you forget when you are away from it for a while. i have no pictures as of yet.

does anyone have pics of how they attached the brake lines to their struts after changing over to coilovers? I'm just getting to the point where i can send my struts in for powder coating and the last thing i'm trying to tackle is this issue. the rear struts aren't a problem because i can always rig something up and bolt it to the existing holes, but the fronts don't have that. i've seen pics where the line is just zap strapped to the strut but that doesn't work in my world. any ideas would be appreciated.

Ross, i love what you're doing at keep it coming but with every new piece you make i keep having to try to come up with more money for parts. it's getting hard enough to talk my wife into letting me spend more money on "that project that hasn't moved and is probably never going to run". now i'm faced with the daunting task of trying to get $5000 out of her just to catch up with the parts i need from you, not to mention the new parts you have coming out! keep up the good work

the strut isolators on the 240z are the same front and rear. i'm not sure about the 280z but i would think they are the same also. if you swapped out the taller 280z isolators for the shorter 240z ones you will drop the car between 3/4" to 1".

i'm with Ross on this one. i recently completely rebuilt a set of 240sx rear calipers (which are almost identical to the 280zx calipers, parts wise), and if you don't have the correct tools it takes quite a bit of screwing around to get all the parts out (that's the easy part) and then back in again . only after you have them back together again do you find out whether or not the e-brake cammed lobe piece needs to be replaced or not ($35 each) don't ask me how i know that