j260z

once the photos are in the photo album you have to right click on them, go to properties and copy the location. once you've done that then you can put the location between the tags and it will show up in the thread.

the isolator is what makes the struts taller. the 280 isolator will raise your car about 3/4" compared to the 240 one.

that is amazing!!

i think everything looks great and with the steering rod tightened up i don't think you could get any closer to optimum without going to a lot of trouble (ie. lowering the steering rack) and even doing that i couldn't see it affecting the geometry enough to warrant it.

i have the early 260 so i'm not totally sure of the fit for the larger struts but i believe the cartridge will have some side to side play in the larger tubes but this will disappear when the gland nut is tightened down. i think the gap is there to keep the cartridge from rusting into place which is a problem with the earlier design.

there's not much out there but here is one i've found http://www.arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html and it looks like juan at jsk innovations is working on something also. other than that i think you're stuck with upgrading your brake pads.

my mistake, the early 260 was from 8/73 to 8/74. so your car would be considered a 75 260. you have the big bumpers then.. right? if that is the case then you would need to swap out the smaller 240 strut housing.

that could very well be the RB26 pump but i'm not sure.

i was way off on estimates of both time and cost!!!... it took me almost 7 minutes to pull the part and cost just over $2 CND!!! i hope you can handle that.

i've heard that the front brakes on cars do close to 70% of the braking due to not only the weight bias but also due to the weight transfer that occurs when braking. i would think that having rear brakes anywhere near the same size as the fronts would only be a detriment in terms of weight and adjustability.

are you talking about the shock cartridge or the strut assembly that the cartridge goes into? if you are talking about the strut assembly then you should have the smaller version in your car. the early 260's came with the same assembly as the 240's and the late 260's came with the larger diameter 280 assemblies. i suspect that the previous owner may have replaced one with the newer style without seeing the difference as the complete strut assembly is interchangeable. if this is the case, you should check to see if the isolators are the same or not. they are the part with the three bolts that attach to the shock towers on the car. the 240 version is about 3/4" shorter than the 280 one. in any case, i would get another 240 strut assembly to replace the 280 one just for consistency ie. replacing shock cartridges or converting to coilovers.

i found one in the junkyard up here. it would probably cost me about ...$7 for the part. i'm not sure what it would cost in shipping though. i could probably pull it tomorrow, looks to be about a 20 minute job. i'll pull it and try to get you a shipping cost by tomorrow night if you want. all the parts have a 90 warranty so even if you found another closer i could always return it.

check out these links http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/toyotaCalipers.html http://www.zcar.com/articles/dat74z/brakes/ http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/brake.html http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=48 http://www.jskinnovations.com/ventedspacers.htm that should keep you busy for a while.

i was working on my own swap with the rack from a 91 subaru legacy until i got too busy with work. i'm trying to find all the info i had when my hard drive crashed also. i can tell you that the rack has the same ratio as my early 260z rack but it also has an extra inch or so of extra length on the rack which i suspect would have to be addressed with some sort of stop so that you wouldn't be able to turn the wheels into the frame rails. other than that, the only other thing i can remember off the top of my head is that i got the track rod-ends look like they will work but the end fitting and ball (threaded piece that the track rod-ends fasten to) can and need to be shortened for the system to work. as far as bumpsteer goes, i believe that if the pivot point on the steering (the ball joint on the end fitting) isn't in the right position in relation to the pivot point on the lower control arm then bumpsteer will be affected.

i think there is a 280zx in the junkyard near me. i'll check tomorrow and let you know.

this topic has been discussed in a few threads in the past. i would suggest using the search function otherwise you may get jumped on by a few members on this board. that being said, welcome to hybridz.

the z31 turbo cv's have a 4 bolt housing on the wheel end of them whereas the z31 na's come with the 6 bolt housing which looks identical to the 280zx turbo cv's.

i finally found the same fan as the one in the JTR manual (seventh edition). i've been looking for that exact one because it has the two mounting flanges on the top and the way they mounted it in the manual makes it look almost stock. anyway, i found it on a 91 ford probe with the 3 liter v6. as far as the 2 speed motors go, i'm sure this one is the same as the others and only the shroud is different. the other nice thing is i got it for $12 CAD.

sharp car! that has to be the nicest red i've seen on a z.

yes, the hubs are a direct swap (they use the same bearings as the early z's) the difference is that they sit out 3/4" farther than the stock hubs so you will need a spacer between the hub and rotor to get things back in line. you will also have to use the 300zx dust seal and modify it to fit on the z spindle as the early z dust seal is too large to fit on the new hub. check out http://www.modern-motorsports.com or http://www.jskinnovations.com/Datsun.htm for the other required parts.

the titan engine is a 5.6 litre 32 valve aluminum block with 6 bolt mains!! if the stock 305 hp, 379 lb ft of torque isn't enough i'm sure the block could handle at least another 300 hps easily. i think someone (someone being someone with more money than me) should seriously try this swap.

i've heard that the 928 is a really nice car to drive... if you can keep it running. the engine runs well but needs constant adjustment to keep it performing well, not to mention parts are a small fortune.

just remember that a higher speed rating doesn't really mean much on a daily driver street car. a 'Z' rated tire capable of sustaining speeds in excess of 160 MPH does you as much good as an 'S' rated tire if you're just driving around town.

weight. as the cars developed they became heavier eg. bigger engines, crash bumpers, sturdier frames. the basic dimensions are the same so you could put an LS1 in any z from 70-78 but it's not just a walk in the park. the cars commonly rust out around the battery tray, behind the front wheels on the fender, the floor and the frame rails just behind the front wheels. most of these questions have been answered many times before and can be found using the search function. that being said, welcome to hybrid z.

just to muddy the waters further...when i took my stub axles out of my early 260z, i found that i had one 240 and one 280 stub axle. both had the 'B' spacer in them, which according to my plastic calipers are 52.5 mm, but they both came with a 1mm copper spacer also?... i never had a problem with the axles when the car was running previously. i gave the 240 stub axle to my mechanic for a spare and got another 280 unit for the MML cv conversion but i'm sure i could get it back to do some measurements if needed (my current axles are still uninstalled). i also now have a spare set of 280 stubs that i personally pulled out of the struts which came with no copper spacer but do have the 'B' spacer.