j260z

i'm not sure about the 12mm bolt part but there is a 4:11 R200 for sale here http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=10395&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=34&

i had to do some searching but i found it. check out this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24294&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

one guy in japan put a skyline awd setup in an s30 but it required substantial modifications and in order to get the front wheels to line up for the driveshafts the engine had to be moved so far forward that it completely threw off the balance of the car for anything other than the drag strip. someone on this site will have the link to some pictures of it. the engine sits so far forward that the intercooler could be used as a bumper.

check out Ross Cs stuff at http://www.modern-motorsports.com. very cool, well made and reasonably priced.

how wide are your tires? my dad has a 97 Impala SS which has 235/45R17s on it at least and, even though that car can out handle most sports cars, it has always had the problem of wanting to track the grooves in the road. now your car shouldn't track nearly as bad because i doesn't have as wide a stance but having the combination of wider tires, worn bushings and steering coupler will definately produce those effects.

i would have to guess that you had a blockage of some sort. did the temperature guage only start to rise after the big bang? if that was the case then the temperature sending unit was on the cool side of the blockage. i ruined an engine on a neon because i was driving down the hiway one night when the block heater fell out ( i don't know how). because there were lights on the road and i was driving so quickly i never noticed the white smoke or had any smell of antifreeze. to make matters worse the coolant temperature light never came on because the ambient temperature in the now empty coolant passages was hot enough that the guage still read normal.

if you're going to the trouble of putting in the LSD diff i think you should invest in a set of 280z stub axles and a set of CV adapters from Ross. http://www.modern-motorsports.com i've got a set and even though they're not on the car yet i can assure you that they are top notch. the bonuses to cv shafts are their strength and smoothness.

it's this kind of attention to detail that makes this site rock. very sweet. can't wait to see it mounted.

looks great! i like the idea of the cover plate to clean up the lines. just make sure it is sealed well to keep the moisture out. keep up the good work.

mat73gnz, my hard drive crashed and i've been so busy at work that i just got time to get my other computer up and running. i still haven't had a chance to see if i can get any of my info i.e. links and address book off the old drive. it's good to be back.

i think it would look cool but... you would need some serious power to be able to take off from the lights with a set of those on. if you didn't, you would just look like any number of those other ricers out there who practically stall the car out just trying to turn those huge wheels.

here's a link to the Arizona Z Car brake page http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html check out the 5 bolt aluminum hub on his kit. i think they look awesome.

i've got a spare set sitting in my basement if you need some for R&D. here's the thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21046&highlight=

make sure you mask off any bolt or nut threads also. if you don't, not only will you have to use a tap and die on them, you'll probably destroy the tap and die in the process. powder coatings are very hard to remove from unwanted places.

aluminum 5 lug hubs for the early z? that would be sweet!! i've already got everything needed to go to the 5 lug setup for my 260z but i'm really not happy with the way the 300zx hubs sit 3/4 of an inch farther out than the origional hubs. check out this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21046&highlight= if i could get a 5 lug set that was positioned like the 4 lugs so i could get the proper dust seal to work that would be awesome!! keep me posted.

they look great! do you get the plates laser cut and then weld on the square stock?

i would first check out the u-joints in the half shafts and driveshaft. if they look fine i would then look at the diff mount isolator which is bolted to the diff cover where the moustache bar would be on an older z.

i took the old 14" Libras off my 74 260z and bolted them right onto a 64 Mercury Comet with no problems. i know there are other Fords out there that share the same pattern and offset but cannot tell you which.

sweet!!!!

hey walkingpig, ya know any Chipperfields in Toowoomba? that's where me dad's from.

i guess impede would be the wrong term. i just think that if the bump stop were at the top, the shock would never need to slide past it.

mat73gnz, good call on attaching the bump stop to the upper spring perch. i like the sound of that, that way you're not impeding the shock and the bump stop only sees action when it's needed. cool!

ivan, that picture is of ON3GO's struts and car. the car next to it is a Z06 corvette.

ivan, yes the washers do make a difference because the washer and bearing sit on a lip on the shock which stops them from sliding up and down, whereas the upper spring perch can slide up and down the shaft. here is a picture of a strut with a bump stop installed the bump stop is the red polyurethane piece on top of the gland nut. here is a picture of my strut with the isolator on over the bearing and washers hope this helps.

here is what i found for serial # HLS30 - 133898 at this site http://www.datsunzclub.net/zcarserialnumbers.html 240z L24 1973 7/72 - 7/73 120001 - 172732 hope it helps.