j260z

smoke 'em if ya got 'em

Ross, was that your 280zx? too bad!! i guess it just goes to prove that you can have all the best stuff and still kill yourself if you don't know what you're doing.

95 would be best because the optispark distributor is the vented style if you get a 94 you should look into either changing out the distributor for a 95 one or doing a mod like this http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/

that looks amazing. what size exhaust are you running?

that totally sounds like a broken synchro. i'll bet if you dropped the tranny yourself and took it in, it would probably cost you around $200. i'd definately get a couple of quotes. it's not hard to drop the tranny and either way you'll need to do that. if it is a comp tranny, i would think you would be farther ahead to get it repaired than to replace it with your buddies tranny. you really don't know what the condition of that one is anyway.

you'll probably break a stub axle before the 4 bolt would go.

here's the link to the spirit garage coilovers http://s-garage.hp.infoseek.co.jp/asimawari1.htm

i can explain that in one word. No.

if you are going to paint it a flat black, you should make your final coat a mat finish clear coat. the reason for this is that a flat paint, especially black, has a really rough surface which means it will pick up dirt really well and will look scuffed up in no time. at least with a clear coat on top you will have a smoother, easier to clean surface.

sounds like your second gear synchro is gone. first gear usually is tough to shift into while moving anyway. as for working on my own tranny, i'm very mechanically inclined but don't have all the tools to do it right. i'd rather remove the tranny and take it in than try to explain why i'm bringing in a lot of pieces for them to re-assemble.

yes! try the search function in the brakes,wheels and suspension forum under 5 lug conversion. it has been covered many times. here's one post http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21046&highlight=5lug+conversion

you should really strip the galvanizing off first. all you need is some muriatic acid (old name for hydrocloric acid). you can pick it up at either a paint store or Home Depot. it is primarily used to etch concrete floors before painting them. that stuff will strip those pipes in seconds just watch out for the fumes and don't get any on you. it's not too strong but it will burn you if you don't rinse it off with water right away. the proceedure would be put your pieces in a pail and pour in just enough acid to get the job done probably less than a cup. when finished grab the pieces with pliers and rinse them off thouroughly. you can either pour the acid back into the origional container or get another container and fill it with a gallon of water and put 2 tablespoons of baking soda in it then slowly pour the acid into the water.(always pour acid into water never the other way around) if you do this it will neutralize the acid and you can flush it.

one more question. i couldn't tell by the pictures on your site whether you also removed the EGR valve? i think that is what is under the fuel pressure regulator also at the back of the intake.

has anyone done this mod http://www.installuniversity.com/ (you have to go to install documents then to Porting MAF Housing) and if so did you notice much increase in power?

i'm trying to get my intake cleaned up to send into the coaters. it is off a 95 LT1. i was wondering if any of the hoses that connect to the intake can be blocked off or whether they all need to be retained in order for the computer to function properly. There is also a pipe that returns exhaust gas from the passenger exhaust manifold into the back of the intake. when you are running headers do you just cap off that hole?

i ended up drilling a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the strut and spraying in a ton of WD40. after letting it sit all night, i put in a punch and gave it a few good whacks. it came out quite easily once the initial rust bond was broken. the only thing is that you have to weld up that hole when you are done otherwise the next cartridge you put in will rust in also. when you put your new cartridges in, fill up the remainder of the strut with ATF. this will prevent any new rust from forming and also acts as a heat transfer fluid when the struts are working.

with the LT1, because the distributor is on the front of the engine, there is no need to change the existing hood latch.

if you go the route of the nissan 5 lug hub, rotor and toyota s13w calipers you will also need a spacer that goes between the hub and rotor to line everything up. i know that Ross C. at MML sells a kit for that setup and last time i checked Juan at JSK was making spacers for that setup. if you are looking at cost then i think the least expensive setup would be the 5 lug/toyota setup and it does work well but the only drawback is in the weight with the calipers alone weighing about 12 lbs. each. if you are looking for an awesome light weight setup then i would consider either the MML 13" kit or JSKs willwood setup.

scottie gnz has done this mod and here is his site http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/gnz.html it looks like quite the production.

i went ahead and got it. and it's already completely torn down and the block is going out to get dipped tomorrow. other than some serious miles on it the only problem with it seems to be both head gaskets were leaking.

i found a 95 caprice taxi in the jy today with a 5.7 engine. i was wondering if this was the same 260 hp LT1 from the impala SS? it didn't have the distributor behind the intake so i'm wondering if this is the optispark unit or not. being in a taxi i'm sure it is beat but i can pick up the engine complete for about $250 CAD. is this worthwhile? and whatelse would be needed if i did pull this engine?

besides working on my Z, i'm also swapping a 5.0 H.O. and AOD into my sisters 64 Mercury Comet 404. the engine will be stock with about 215 HP and i need to know if the stock 7 1/4" rear end will hold up to that much power. i'd rather know now before i start because we're on a budget and i'd hate to have to swap the rear end out not to mention probably needing another custom driveshaft. any help would be appreciated.

check out this link for wiring. http://www.windsorfox.com/ a little expensive but something to fall back on if problems arise from your install. here is a link for converting from a standard 5.0 to an H.O. setup. http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/ho_conversion.html

be patient, Ross has a day job which takes up a serious amount of time. his product is more than worth the wait.

OMG!!! did you guys look at some of those engines! http://www.chrfab.com/Engines.htm $18,000! those are things of beauty. i'd almost be afraid to fire one of those up, you might mar the finish on one of those parts.