puretone

Here's another way of looking at it: That pump you are using, the original 280Z pump, is most likely VERY old and VERY tired. Whatever its specs were when it left the factory, rest assured that it is nowhere near capable of providing that kind of flow or pressure it was designed to output initially. You can do some seriously bad things to, what I will assume is currently the highest dollar item in your car, your engine by starving it of fuel. Same holds true for oil starvation of course. From what I gather over the years, having spent waaaaaaaayyy too much time cruising car / car engine forums is that literally nobody gives even 1/2 of a single f##k about fuel pumps. Flabbergasting to me, really. 100-200$ gets you a fuel pump that will more than delivery the results you critically need. Pennies compared to engine damage from fuel starvation. Invest into a Walbro (or similar trusted brand) 190-255lph pump and a fuel pressure regulator. The regulator doesn't need to be made of myrrh or anything, but at the very *least* get something that is adjustable and has some means of monitoring the pressure it flows. Bonus: you *will* beyond a shadow of a doubt be able to rule out fuel pressure and/or fuel flow rates as gremlins when you do have some other shenanigans going on under the hood. You really can not come up with one good reason why you should keep an ancient fuel pump around. When you go in for a heart transplant, you don't settle for the 75 year old's recent donation over the young and crispy 21 year old's relatively new heart.

I know this man's pain allllll too well. I'm from Aruba, we have CRAZY import taxes on performance cars & performance car parts...plus everything and its mom is marked up about 250-300% what it costs in the USA. So yeah, something like a bog standard Lexus RX is easily a 100K car brand new.

This is probably silly of me to post here, given that EVERYBODY is probably looking for these...but I am on the hunt for either the passenger CV Axle or both. Shoot me a price if you have one/two/can help. I've got a considerable amount of $ stashed away for these, as the *only* other option seems to be to buy them brand new OEM from somewhere.

LOL! Focusing of a camera lens is not your strongest suit now, is it?

They are indeed COMPLETELY wrong. I did the exact same thing just to see what would come up... I've noticed the same thing at Advanced/Pepboys/Autozone as far as oil filters for certain cars & motorcycles are concerned. The threads & seat will be the same, but the filter itself will be too large/tall and will interfere with things. Apparently "they" have solved this issue now with the oil filters.

Starter connects to the battery. At least at one end. I believe you're asking about how the starter solenoid is energized? MS1/2/3 could have a trigger output for that, but don't bother with that. Just figure out some way to energize the starter solenoid. Follow the skinniest wire attached to the starter solenoid. That skinny wire needs +12v (I think, right...? Or is it ground?) in order to fire up the starter solenoid. Use a momentary switch, for example your ignition switch, or some fancy aftermarket switch. The MS ECU "runs" when you turn the car on, it won't do anything until it "sees" RPM or other signals coming from an engine that's turning over.

Oh and on the subject of the buzzer wire...you daft #$%&@! I admit I'd do the same to annoying buzzers & bong sounds cars make with the door being open and such. Just don't blindly rip wires out. Think for a sec what royal pain in the be-hind it is to repair such a travesty. The actual switch/sensor/device might be buried way deep inside some annoying crevasse, requiring tiny Asian-lady hands. (Relax...it's just satire...) Commonly these sort of things are "ground-triggered" so you *might* be lucky. On the other hand you may have just negatively affected a grouped ground wire scheme & now have yerself a potential ground leak. Do yourself a favor & trace this wire back to whatever it connected. Disable that whatever-thing by unplugging/unscrewing/unbolting/unclipping it and remove the wiring for it, or leave the wiring in place but PROPERLY deprecated. No need for a wiring diagram to tell you how to properly remove active circuits. Just a matter of being prudent. Dangling circuits & wires can chafe on sharp edges & call up the Gremlins for active duty. Unless you have speakers in the door or other fancy electrical stuff, there may just be that 1 wire. If the door switch sits in the car's body, you may have a can of worms. The wiring diagram may indeed prove/disprove this. It doesn't take away that you need to look at this bit logically too & have your volt meter handy. Praise the Gods for not having ripped this wire out on a modern CAN-BUS networked car. Do it in a modern Merc or Beemer and you may very well have incited the secret password code to start Armageddon. Or divided an equation by 0.

This is a kindergarten question, seriously. Ground wires are easily traced, regardless of color. Which is nice if you happen to be color blind. More often than not they will all be the same color (blue, brown, black, Technicolor raincoat) and get bundled into a "combo plug", where all ground wires meet, interconnect and from there go to a nice clean bare metal contact...or battery (-) post. Same generally can happen to the switched +12v wire. Although here the wire color (very very very often red) will be different from the ground wire color. Obviously. You don't need a PhD in Muppet Society Studies in order to figure this one out. Look at the back of the gauges and you will notice there are 2 wires that each gauge has that is identical for every gauge. Grab your volt meter and test these 2 wires with ignition switch set to accessories. If you have a read out of +12v or thereabouts, you know you've got the correct ones. If your readout is -12v or thereabouts, you've got your volt meter probes swapped. Generally speaking each gauge has a ground wire, a +12v wire and some sort of input signal wire. In some instances there is an additional wire which is used for dimming the dash lights. Big whoop, skip that one because it's for girls. See? Now did you need a wiring diagram for that? No. Useful to have one? Perhaps. I've come to find out that most diagrams online and/or in print are quite often inaccurate. Experience tells me so. I've worked on anything from a 1964.5 Mustang to a 2011 KIA & everything in between. It's cake dude, seriously. Just think logically and give up on the idea of "I can't do it...Boohoo". Keep in mind: stuff running around on this earth was made by human beings, not aliens...although I may argue that some of the more colorful individuals that threadeth upon the lands are indeed suspected alien-spawn. But that's for another day & another place. But I digress, fact is, if it was made on this planet, means it was assembled by man, and therefore you are more than capable of figuring it out easily. Unless you are a member of the tribe of San People. I realize that's a stupid statement since these dudes are quite clever...but you may have a reason there, caveman & all. And no, I'm actually a pretty big retard, mostly slept thru highschool and went on to college where I got an extremely advanced degree in Advanced Muppetry for Idiots. Possibly the worst ~100.000$ I will have ever spent. The college girls were fun tho. I unceremoniously left the Muppetry industry because I wished to start my own weekly series of Commie Muppets at home...Muppet Hitler served as Muppet Kim Jong-Il's personal Ottoman, whilst Muppet Gadafi & Muppet Chavez quarreled on the love-seat, and Muppet Castro was just aimlessly faffing about in corner.

Excuse the thread bump...but meh, I'm using a Koyo radiator and a single Flex-a-Lite puller fan. I have a radiator hose coupler with a thermo/fan switch screwed in it. Turn-on temp: 190° F, turn-off temp: 180° F. The whole circuit is controlled by a Painless Wiring weather/waterproof relay, circuit is enabled by ignition switch. I have no A/C compressor, this is a fun run-about-car with no need for pesky parasitic draw to cramp my style. This thing hardly ever heats up enough to the point that the fan is continuously running. Even on the hottest Chicago days. The Koyo aluminium radiator deals with most of it. This all makes for flawless cooling all the time in an otherwise nearly flawless operating 1975 280Z with a lightly massaged L28 block.

I was wondering, in fact, about what the FSM listed as well. Would that coil have a resistor built-in? Just a curiosity from my end... I pretty much know off-hand what the MSD coil specs are as far as primary resistance goes. Committed it to memory some years ago whilst screwing around with a friend's Honda. I suppose connecting two ballast resistors in series to obtain something near the 1.0 ohm range would be a possibility. I have a pair of those MSD 0.8ohm resistors lying around doing nothing on the bench. HOWEVER! I just came across an MSD 6AL-2 at a seriously good price. Long live store credit! So I'll be hooking that up, instead of screwing around with ballast resistors & ignition boxes that may fry due to current mismatches. Thanks for the insight! Those dudes posting their 280ZX distributor / E12-80 & coil upgrade shenanigans ought to adjust their guides to include the ballast resistor & why it is prudent to use said ballast resistor in the circuit...

Thank you! That does offer much needed insight. Flopping about on the internet, I have come to 'understand' that there are quite a few folks with 280ZX's using the MSD 8202 coil or something similar with a similar primary resistance as the MSD unit, so I figured not much harm can be done. Of course the folks upgrading their 240Z's to the 280ZX/E12-80 also run into this conundrum...from the guides posted online, most opt to remove the ballast resistor as well. The E12-80 and coil are both connected in series though, so wouldn't that reduce the stress on the E12-80 box? As in the highest load of current would still take the shortest route? Also, it is safe to say the MSD 6AL ignition probably takes care of that extra heat/short life span of the E12-80, doesn't it? I suppose if I were to buy one of those I could pretty much use whatever MSD coil I feel like using on any given day of the week... I should really stop tinkering with this set up, but can't stop my hands from doing what they do...an RB25 going in come next winter. If anyone else has a thought, do by all means drop it on me here.

Hi Kids! I've done the distributor upgrade on my 1975 280Z. Previous owner(s) did an engine swap and stuffed in a fresher L28 that's been de-EFI'd. It's got an Edelbrock 4bbl & Clifford intake manifold. I'm still cleaning up the former EFI wiring & getting rid of unused anything. Anyways, it had a beat up old distributor with external ignition sitting in the engine bay...ballast resistor as well. Comical. So I got my mittens on a 1980 280ZX distributor with the E12-80 box attached to the side of the distributor. I have an MSD 8202 hooked up right now to provide spark. My question: What, if anything, would stop me from using an MSD 8207 coil instead of the MSD 8202? It is not a question of frying the E12-80 box, right? The setup as-is right now does not require a ballast resistor, so using an even lower (primary) resistance coil shouldn't be an issue either, correct? I realize the MSD 8202 coil works & suits just fine. I have a spare pair of MSD 8207 coils lying about that I'd like to put to proper use...besides that it is a smaller more compact & perhaps slightly more esthetically pleasing to look at coil, when compared to the old-school looking 8202 coil. Any thoughts or input?

RHD is just a massive headache on LHD roads. Dangerous too... Try passing someone on the roads/highways. Oh and you'll look like a massive daft clot when hitting the drive-thru of your favorite burger joint.

Man that's an awful eBay-special copy of an HKS oil cap. I just replaced mine with a ZStore billet cap. I'll compare it to the Toyota oil cap I have in the morning & report back.

A Helical & TorSen differential is nearly similar in operation, no? I've been involved with some Toyota Celica fan-boy boards for a while. Some of the sportier SS3 Gen 5 & 6 Gen Celicas were delivered with Helical LSDs that for whatever reason at times displayed open-diff characteristics. Perhaps it should be mentioned that the amount of "bite" a clutch-type LSD has, can be "adjusted" to an extent by virtue of different viscosity & additives found in various diff fluids.