Chickenman

There are lots of Options for making a new harness. You use a new bare harness that comes with your Stand alone system. ECU side is terminated with proper Terminals and there is usually a sub- harness for a Relay box ( Fuel pump, ECU Main Relay, Cooling Fans, Nitrous etc ) The sensor ends, injector, etc are bare pigtails and you attach what ever terminal ends you need. Bosch terminal ends are widely available on the internet. DIY Auto Tune carries any terminals and parts you need. https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/wiring-components/ You can also order the new Harness pre-terminated with all the correct ends from DIY Auto Tuning ( or any other supplier ) for additional money. One of our members ( Fric Frac ) makes beautiful custom made harnesses. He also supplies the bare Bosch connectors ( new style with spring release ) for a reasonable cost. Kit includes enough EV1 connectors for all injectors and sensors, TPS and AFM ( if needed ). Terminals come with unwired terminal pins so you can crimp on the pins to your harness. I find that much easier than soldering wires together and then heat shrinking etc.

Another reason why OP should install his WB gauge ASAP. Most modern AFR gauges have auxiliary WB and NB outputs. So the gauge itself can be used as a WB controller. The MS2 V3.0 has WB input that can be integrated with a WB gauge such as Innovate or AEM. It has the ability to self tune to Target AFR maps. That makes tuning sooooooo much easier and faster. And you can Data log everything. Have an annoying stumble when you " tip in" at cruise or pull away at a Stop . The ability to Data Log with a WB gauge will instantly tell you if you're going Rich or Lean.... and by how much. I've tuned cars for over 35 years with no WB or even NB gauges, as I'm sure other " Old Timers " here have done. . And I've done it very successfully. But with today's technology, I would never waste my time tuning without a WB . I'd never waste my time trying to dial in a stand alone unit with out using it's WB " Self Learning " features. Spend a little extra time and effort right now hooking up that WB Gauge and integrating it with your MegaSquirt, and you will save time and grief 10 fold down the road.

I have a Copper three core rad ( freshly boiled out ) and the stock 280Z 8 blade fan with a new Thermo-clutch assembly. Stock 280Z fan shroud. New factory Nissan W/Pump, Zerex Anti-freeze and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. Car has factory air and runs right in the middle of temperature gauge, with AC on and ambient temps of 90 - 95 F. Usually sits right on the " E " of the word " Temp " on the factory gauge. Stop and go traffic, and needle creeps up a bit, but only to the first leg of the " M ". As soon as you start moving Temp guage needle drops right down to the " E" mark again. Ambient temp has to be really hot to Pretty happy with that. Factory 280Z fan moves a TON of air.... just saying. Edit: Oh yeah... and Factory Nissan Thermostat ( 180 F ) . I always use OEM thermostats on all cars now, since I found Stant Thermostat quality took a nose dive about 10 years ago. Even the premium Stants ( and other makes ) vary all over the place. The factory stats are dead nuts accurate.

I think I'd seriously be looking at a MegaSquirt. For $350 I'd look into getting a good used MS 2 on E-Bay as a low cost Option. You should be able to pickup a complete MS2 with MS3X expansion and harness for $350 used. They come up for sale quite often on E-Bay. Looks like you're pretty comfortable with soldering and electronics, so a new MS 2 DIY kit would be another cheap option. I've played around with some Bosch ME5.3 ECU from my Turbo Audi... and it's an absolute PITA. I even built a Bench Flashing setup, with a chip burner and starting learning Hexadecimal coding. Just way too much bother for me. I'm into Stand alone systems now, and they are just so much easier. Everything just works and is infinitely adjustable. Plus the new stuff will self tune, if you buy the right hardware.

Some more operational information on the Motronic 1.1/1.3 ECU. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1430281-Bosch-Motronic-1-1-1-3-BMW I'm thinking more and more that this may be a Security module issue. I'll have to do some more research, but apparently there are some specific work arounds to get the 1.1/1.3 ECU's to work without the Security system connected.

On a Project like this I would suggest a stand alone. Factory ECU's just have too much integration into other electronic control modules in the car... particularly High end German cars. Note: There is also some mention of being able to Modify the ECU's to run with out the Factory security system. I suspect that this system is incorporated in the dash module... which you do not have... which could be causing the issue with no injector pulse. The new AEM Infinity series is very very good from reports on Audi/VW big Turbo forums... but it's expensive. Haltech has some excellent products but $$$ . Megasquirt is the most cost effective solution and there is a TON of support on their forums. More so than just about any other manufacturer. Edit: Check with DIY Autotune to see which MS unit best fits your needs. MS 2 would suffice for distributor based ignition and Multipoint / Batch Fire fuel control. MS3 with MS3X expansion board gives you full COP ignition and Full sequential fuel injection control and expandability range. Note: One last kick at the can......Do check the Camshaft and Crank sensors and make sure they are operating properly. If one of these is defective it can cause a no injector pulse problem. Here is a good diagnostic site for early and late Motronic testing procedures. Cam and Crank testing is about halfway down the page: http://blog.bavauto.com/3562/no-start-1989-325i-e30/

BTW.. I had a quick view at your Log, and basically it doesn't tell us a whole lot. Lots of extra fields that are superfluous, but the two most important, AFR and Spark advance are not logged. 1: Is the engine completely stock other than 240sx TPS and AFM removal? That means stock cam, stock compression and stock injectors. If so, you best bet may be to go to Megasquirt forums and download a working .MSQ for a stock 280Z. Note you must tell us of any engine modifications as they all affect VE, which changes the tune. 2: You're only controlling fuel with the Megasquirt. Is there a particular reason for that? Are you running the stock mechanical and vacuum advance distributor. If so, then please tell us the static timing and what the total mechanical advance is. 10 degrees static timing at 700 rpm and 32 degrees total mechanical all in by 3,200 is a good starting point ( Vacuum advance disconnected and minimum 95 RON fuel ) 3: If you are using a crank fire or some other form of Programmable ignition timing, then why aren't you running a Spark Map Table? 4: Your logs have way too many fields selected for dialing in a basic setup. KISS principle. For initial idle and a basic " Drive it to the Dyno " setup all you need to log is RPM, AFR ( essential!!! ), Spark Advance ( real time ) TPS, CTS and MAP. If you're running a mechanical Dizzy you obviously don't need Spark advance. Don't clutter your logs with useless info. 5: Go out and buy this Book: It is THE best resource for understanding standalone EFI systems. Written so the DIY tuner can understand it. Matt Cramer ( Megasquirt Developer ) and Jerry Hoffmann co-wrote the book. You can get it from Amazon Worldwide, but here is the Canadian link: https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557/dp/1557885575

1: Why aren't you asking these questions on the Megasquirt Forums? They have the most knowledgeable support for their product. 2: It is an absolute waste of time to try and tune a new stand alone system without a WB O2 AFR meter hooked up. Push pull or drag your car to a shop and get a bung installed for an AFR Meter. Then install one. Period. Or spend a ton of money and take it to a Chassis Dyno with a tail pipe O2 sensor and spend hundreds of dollars to have them Tune it. Your choice.

Hmmm... my Airtex fuel pump has recently started to get noisy. I'm running a G3 filter as well. Have to check it to see if it's getting plugged. I think I'll see what Aeromotive has to offer.

12 V at Injector leads doesn't necessarily mean Injectors are firing. Injectors are fed with a constant 12 with ignition on. Injector Pulse circuit is opened and close on the ground side by the ECU. Best way to check injector is circuitry to use a NOID lite.....or several. They're pretty cheap. I paid $1.97 each for mine in a clearance bin. Any NAPA, Autozone etc should have them. Once you confirm NOID lite is pulsing, you know Injector circuitry itself is good.

Hook the Inertia switch to the ground side of Terminal #85. You could also hook an Oil pressure switch, in series with the Inertia to the ground side. That way your engine actually has to be running or cranking to turn on the Fuel Pump relay. This prevents the fuel pump from constantly pumping if the ignition is on, but the engine is not actually running. You want a low pressure sensing switch for this. 5 to 8 lbs. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-a68301/overview/ BTW. Terminals #85 and #86 are interchangeable. It doesn't matter which is the ground side and which is the Hot side. They are connected only to the Magnetic solenoid which doesn't care about polarity. Terminals #30 and #87 are different. #30 should always be the Hot side feed. #87 ( or 87A ) should always be to the Device you want power fed to . The reason is that #30 and #87 have contact points that open and close. Often there is a condenser on the #30 side to stop any arcing of the points when they separate. #87 and #87A terminals will have no such condenser.

Hi Cliff. Glad you found this. Yes, the issue is if you crash. Crash sensors will shut down the Fuel Pump by disconnecting the ground side of the relay. In this case, the crash sensors are connected through the Dash Control Module. My Audi is the same way. Most electronic modules always seem to switch the ground circuit on or off, not the Hot side. If you bypass the factory crash sensors you should try and duplicate how they operate. That's why I said to incorporate an Inertia switch into the circuit if you decide to rewire and activate the FP relay by using a switchable Hot feed. IE off Ignition switch or Fuse box. These Inertia switches are readily available at Summit or Jegs. Used a lot on Ford vehicles. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Fuel%20Pump%20Cut%20off%20Switch&retaillocation=int Rock Auto also has them. And cheaper: http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?mfr=STANDARD+MOTOR+PRODUCTS&parttype=10756&partnum=FV7&a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2Fen%2Fparts%2Fstandard%2Bmotor%2Bproducts%2CFV7%2Celectric%2Bfuel%2Bpum p%2Binertia%2Bswitch%2C10756 E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XFuel+Pump+Inertia+switch.TRS0&_nkw=Fuel+Pump+Inertia+switch&_sacat=0

GK... did you also have a thread on the FP Relay issue on Classic Z or elsewhere. I made a reply yesterday, but now I can't seem to find the thread???

Another way you could do a work around is to wire a separate Generic Bosch 30A relay for the Fuel pump. But change it from ground actuated to Power actuated. Ground #86 terminal of new relay to chassis. The use a switched power from your ECU or Ignition switch connected to terminal #85. Sometimes it's easier to find circuits that are Hot when On rather than Grounded when On. Incorporate an Inertia or Crash switch between Terminal #86 of the new Fuel Pump and the chassis ground. So fuel pump will shut off if you crash into something and are knocked unconscious. The above method would enable you to not have to run the Climate Control Computer... which appears to be the source that actually grounds the fuel pump. Makes sense if you think in an over complicated German way. Climate control is probably combined with the security system which is also tied into crash sensors. ( Most German cars do it this way ) On 2000 and later Audi's and VW's, the Engine ECU is actually linked to a specific Dash Module, because of the Immobilizer configuration.

Don't know if this helps, but I can across this little factoid while doing some research. Seems it's the on board Dash display computer that actually grounds the Main relay for the Fuel Pump. So engine ECU is not actually grounding the FP Relay circuit directly. The Germans Auto makers can always over complicate a very simple thing... Grrrrr. Here's the link. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/motronic.htm Really, all you need to find is another circuit from the ECU that grounds on startup. Piggy back a ground from that.

Note that all of these connections are very sensitive to corrosion. You'd be well advised to get yourself a spray can of De-Oxit to clean all electrical connections. Corrosion on the pins of the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor will greatly affect the running of the car. Note: On a car this old, corroded electrical terminals are everywhere. Back in the 70's they did not have weather-pack connectors like modern cars. Start methodically taking apart ALL electrical connectors and meticulously clean each one. De-Oxit, some fine sandpaper and a small flat blade screwdriver for scraping hard corrosion off pins, are all required tools on these things. Once the connections are properly cleaned, apply Dielectric grease to keep out moisture. Clean and tight electrical connections make a world of difference in how these cars run. Here is a picture of all of the water switches, including the extra one on the side of the Thermostat Housing for the two pickup Federal dizzy's. Click to enlarge:

There are several different Coolant temperature switches on these things. The one wire bullet connector ( White or yellow) is for the dash gauge. Then there is the two pin " Engine " Coolant Temperature switch which sends the engine water temperature to the ECU. This switch affects running and driveability more than just about any other sensor. It has two wire leads that are black in color. These wires have bullet connectors that plug into the engine harness to two wires that are also Black in color. Then there is the Thermo-time switch, it controls the " Cold start Valve ". It also has two Black wires that terminate with Bullet connectors. It plugs into the engine harness side with two Dark Green wires. But here's the neat part. After years of grime and dirt accumulating, the two Dark Green wires magically change to Black!!! Guess what happens if you mix the connections up between the Engine Coolant Temperature Switch and the Thermo-time switch? Yes it runs like a bag of S**T. You have to wipe the oily gunk off if Brake Cleaner to sometimes find the true color of the wires. Here is a picture of the Different wires. Click to enlarge. On Federal models, the distributor has two pickup coils inside. One set is advanced and one is retarded. They are controlled by Water temperature and yes, there is a separate Water temperature switch for this as well. Fortunately this switch is a bit different than the other. Has two wires attached, but one has a ground " Ringlet " on it and bolts to the thermostat housing. The other wire ( Black again ) terminates in a Bullet connector. This is a single wire though and it connect on the engine Harness side to another BLACK wire . Fortunately the engine harness wire has a Red band around it to identify it. Only some years of Federal models have the dual pickup system. California models only have a single pickup in the Dizzy.

Edit: And please don't start the same thread in different places. That gets hard to follow. Stick to one thread.

Pop the cap off and rotate the motor until the points open. When the points are open ( key on of course ) you should have zero voltage on the negative side of the coil terminal. Have someone crank the car while you observe the points. If you see a spark at the point contacts when they open, that indicates a bad points condenser. A bad condenser will cause a weak or no spark problem. Check the condition of the points and make sure they are not burned or badly corroded. A quick way to test the points system is to put a 12v test light, ground the alligator clip to chassis and hold the test light tip on the negative terminal. If the test light pules that indicates that the point system is working correctly. If the test light stays on or off steady, or flickers weakly then you know you have a problem with the points system. If the test light pulses strongly, then you likely have a bad coil ( assuming still no spark from coil Hi Tension lead ). Of course, do check the resistance of the Hi Tension coil lead. Make sure it's not not " Open " Here's a good article on how to test points. This is on a VW, but it's a universal method for all points systems. http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=123687

Hard to go wrong with Amsoil.....especially at $2.50 a quart!! I've used the their products ( and many others ) for decades. Always Top Tier lubricants, if normally a bit pricey. Still, I've had two Automatic transmissions saved by using Amsoil ATF when they were improperly assembled by so called " experts ". It would be my #1 choice for everything if it wasn't so danged expensive in Canada.

How is it any more suspect than similar tests done by Redline, Lucas or Mobile ( if you can find them ) . They're all standard industry tests.

Yeah that has me scratching my head as well. Any decent Dyno operator should be monitoring AFR and should have seen it go pig rich. All that was mentioned in original Post was that In car AFR meter and Dyno AFR were reading the same. No figure was given.... I kinda figured the AFR's were good or something would have been mentioned.... Hmmmm. And no one noticed it was Rich on the Top end? Very strange... how was that missed? Confusing timeline...

Here is a tested D585 Dwell table on a high boost Audi/Vw's. Spartiati's table.This is as aggressive as you can get. You don't need values as high as this on a Normally aspirated engine, but you do need more than 3.0ms. Click for larger Image.

Double Post

3.0ms at the top end might be a bit low. Even the stock GM Silverado Dwell Table runs higher than that. You could temporarily bump the Dwell up to 4.0 to 4.5ms and see if that cure the drop off. Do not run 4.5ms as a constant though. Only for testing. Do run a Dwell Table. It is necessary to utilize the coil cooling strategy and maximize spark. Here is a picture of the stock GM D585 dwell table. D581 coils should be similar. RPM and Voltage Correction Table: The Audi/VW Turbo guys are using 4.2 to 4.5 ms up on top with 30 psi boost. They've been doing it reliably for a number of years. Here's a link to a thread I started on VWVortex.com. Very technical and fantastic input from some very knowledgeable people. It is now 25 pages long and growing...... Check out Spartiati's Dwell table on Post #1 of the following link.. This is an aggressive table for a high boost car, but also a safe level. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5563383-LS2-Yukon-coil-conversion&highlight=LS2+Coil