Chickenman

That's how you learn.... GL.

I worked for Nissan Parts Dealerships fpr 18 years. The parts replacement of Clutch Master Cylinders was about 10 to 1 over clutch slave cylinders. The M/Cylinders are made of aluminum and get pitting of the bore from water accumulation in the Hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave cylinders were cast iron and they did not pit so easily. Unless they are physically leaking fluid outside, the Slave Cylinders are " usually " good. The Master Cylinders nearly always fail first, and your symptoms are " Text Book " failure of M/Cyl by internal bypassing. The M/Cylinders have a Secondary seal ( the one on the left or push-rod end ) that just keeps f;fluid from leaking out of the bore. That is why you can have a failed M/Cyl but show no evidence of external fluid leakage. The Slave cylinder has only one seal, when it goes you will always see external leakage ( may be hidden under dust boot ) Also, your seal shown in the picture do not look good to me. The Primary seal ( right side ) lip is worn and rounded ( Edges should be sharp and pliable ) . When that happens they bypass fluid internally and you do not get the full stroke travel from the slave cylinder. The loss of a few millimeters of stroke can make all the difference. Replace the Clutch Master cylinder ( don't even bother trying to rebuild it ). Install fresh fluid and bleed properly. 95% of the time that will fix the issue. If it still doesn't work after replacing the M/Cyl, then replace the Slave Cylinder . Note: Replace the Slave cylinder as well as the M/CYL IF you find fluid under the protective boot of the Salve cylinder..

Yeah.. Royal Purple doesn't have a good reputation. Oils that do have a very good Track record are Amsoil 10w-40 AMO, any of the Amsoil Severe duty grades, Motul Synthetics, Redline and Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Synthetic ( High Zinc ). My engine was new from the ground up in 2014. Engine builder recommended Delo 400 30wt for break-in ( Pennzoil 20w-50 is also good... lots of ZDDP ) . Changed oil and filter at 100 miles. Fresh Delo 30wt. Broke in further to 1,000 miles. Switched to Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Synthetic 10w-40. 4,000 miles on motor now and I have not had to add a drop of oil. Camshaft and rockers ( factory Nissan... good used ) look brand new. I've used Amsoil products for several decades and I swear by there products. That being said, they are expensive. I my Turbo Audi I use Shell T6 Synthetic 5w-40. It's a Hi Zinc HDEO ( Heavy Duty Engine Oil ) that works very well in flat tappet engines. And you can't beat the price point. Turbo guys and air cooled bike guys like it a lot. Both types of vehicles are really tough on oils. 5w-40 might be a bit too thin for the larger clearances that the L-Series were designed for. We had an excellent Tech article at VW Vortex on oils for Big Turbo cars. It's a sticky in the FAQ. Has lists of Zinc and Phosphate levels of popular oils. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5867396-Built-Engine-Big-Turbo-Heavily-Modified-engines(aftermarket-cams)-what-Engine-Oil&highlight=Big+Turbo+oil True Ester Synthetics such as Amsoil, Redline, Motul and Joe Gibbs/Driven ( Joe Gibbs/Driven Oil is actually a new formulation , supposedly superior to Esters ) are THE best Synthetic oils you can buy. But they are expensive. Other cheaper brands are less expensive, but are made from Hydro-cracked Group 3 base stock which is not a true Synthetic like Esters and PAO. In Europe and Japan, you can not legally sell Hydrocracke base stock oils as Synthetics. You can thank the US Congress and some of the big USA Oil companies that got the Feds to relax the USA standards for Synthetic oils back in the late 1990's. Joe Gibbs ( Or Driven Oils as they are now known ) have excellent Technical articles on the different requirements of Race engines, Hot Rod motors and Vintage engines. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1312-driven-racing-oil/

I have a bad feeling a complete engine tear down is going to be required.... This is not simple wear. This is hardened metal chips flowing through the whole lubrication system. Sorry man. That sucks big time. You " may " have gotten lucky, especially if you have a Magnetic drain pan. But only sure way is a thorough inspection of complete engine. If you do start finding metal chips in oil filter pleats, embedded in Rod and Main bearing material etc, there are certain additional steps that should always be done with this type of failure. 1: If you are running an Oil cooler. Throw it out. Metal chips will get stuck in turbulators of engine oil tubes and in corners. Even Ultra Sonic cleaning will not get them out. 2: Oil cooler hoes. Toss them out if they are AN with liners. The chips get embedded in the hose lining and can not be properly cleaned out. Some will remain, and eventually work their way loose and go thru the bearings. Hard lines ( Metal Tubes ) can generally be flushed out safely. 3: All oil passages in engine block and cylinder head should be cleaned with Rifle brushing ora a similar method. That means removing all oil passage plugs. High pressure solvent blasting after cleaning with the Rifle brushes. Head can be Ultrasonically cleaned. So can block if you can find a Tank large enough. 4: Turbocharged? If using AN hose for lubrication and drain, throw out the hoses. Chips can embed them selves in that hose liner as well. Check the CHRA and blast clean with lots of solvent and air. Clean any restrictions thoroughly. Ball Bearing CHRA's may need to be pulled apart and checked for debris in bearings. Journal bearing are generally a bit more robust. 5: Oil pump will of course have to be pulled apart and checked. Don't forget to thoroughly clean all oil passages in Timing cover Please feel free to Chime in if I've missed anything... GL.

After getting the oil sample, of course drain all the oil. Inspect for any metal particles. Cut the filter apart and inspect filter medium. And of course if you have a magnetic drain plug that will tell a lot. Rocker pad material is very hard. It will eat everything alive in short order if it gets in your oil system. The oil filter is a Bypass system on these cars. Only a percentage of oil gets filtered on each pass. That's normally fine for regular dirt particles, and soft iron ( wear from rings ) but Tappet material, or Rocker Arm Pad material is extremely hard and will embed itself in the soft Babbit of con rod and Main bearings very quickly. Not good news I'm afraid...

Large image of Rocker Damage. Click on thumbnail to enlarge.

Oh crap!! That's not good at all. Stop running the Motor immediately!! Those rockers are failing. It does look like those Rockers were reground... and a bad job was done. Notice the grinding marks on the pad. Probably went through the Hard Layer coating as Tony mentioned. I'd contact Rebello and see what they can do. My advice. Buy all new factory Nissan Rockers. Send the Camshaft back to Isky and have it examined and Micro-polished ( if possible ) . Get an oil analysis kit from Black-Stone Labs and find how much worn metal is in your oil. They may be able to differentiate from soft Iron and Hard iron. I'm expecting the Iron PPM will be way up there...

Actually, it's not all that bad. $64.95 USD = $83.42 CDN at today's rate ( Bank of Canada )

^ Yes, I agree 100% Safety latch is not good enough. That's what hood pins are for... Run the hood on a Z propped up, and proper Hood pins are a necessity.

I think it is an excellent product and the price point is correct. Brilliant concept. Particularly helpful to any Tuners who do regular work on SU's, both British and Japanese. If I had a Z with SU's I'd certainly buy one. I used to Tune carbs as a side business, and getting SU' float levels correct has always been a bit of a PITA... and it is of course critical.

Yes, you are quite correct about the spalling effect. I couldn't remember the correct word and galling was as close as I could remember. Similar to the flaking that you see on rod bearing from over pressure and the resultant metal fatigue. Usually due to detonation. That's why I was asking about who made the rockers and spring pressures. I think it would be very worth while contacting Black-Stone Labs and getting one ( or more ) of their oil analysis kits. Then send the oil in to Black Stone and see what it reveals.If you are not running a Factory PCV system... make sure you tell Black-Stone that. It will help with the analysis. The oil analysis will give important data on the wear, of lack of wear, on frictional components as well as a detailed analysis of how your oil is performing. Turbo engines can be very hard on engine oils, including Synthetics. . http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Waiting on those Rocker pictures. Try and remove more than one, especially if you have a good and bad rocker. Send the pictures to Rebello as well to see what they think. Note: Regarding pictures; Try and use a good Digital Camera with Close-Up feature. Turn off the flash and use natural lighting. Flash often causes reflections that can hide fine details. .

Hmm... I think I can see what Rossman is talking about in the bottom photo. Looks like some material flaking off on the rocker pad or galling. Can you take a couple of rockers off and post up some Hi-Res pictures. Also provide more information on Cam specs, Valve spring specs and what oil you are running? And are those rockers genuine Nissan or an aftermarket brand. New or Used?

I think the best thing to do is to throw your .MSQ file up on the MS2 Forums and let the experts diagnose it. They are very helpful. This book is also very helpful. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/ Amazon and all Online book retailers can get it as well.

^ Had a quick look at the above site. Some very good info there. I think you're in good hands with Peter. I've added his site to my Chip Tuning Library. Thanks for the link. GL. Richard

Juts a note on Coolant and Air Temperature sensors. If ordering the GM style, make sure you order genuine GM or AC Delco sensors. I've found that aftermarket ones vary considerably in the values. Even Standard Blue Streak was nearly out of GM's allowable tolerance range. The GM/AC Delco sensors were dead nuts accurate ( Temperature vs resistance ) .

The Jim Stim is a handy little device. It is also very helpful to to run a Bench Test with all of the sensors connected and Calibrated, then play with the program and Load and Modify some tunes. You can get a good idea of how the GUI works before installing it on the car. Most of the developments at DIY Autotuning is done by simulation. Haltech, SEM and all the manufacturers all run simulations first. DIYAutoTuning likely has a stock tune ready to go for that engine. Juts put in a request in the appropriate forum and they'll usually fire one off to you. You could even ask them to include the BMW when you buy the Hardware. They can easily throw it on a CD or send by E-Mail. Ideally you can have all the sensors calibrated. The stock base tune loaded. All the Ignition sett-up and timing Maps svaed and loaded. Then you can install it on the car. Turn the key and have it fire on first crank. That really impresses your buddies!! BTW, if you run into any issues, there are lots of people on the DIY Forums who can help you and and even remotely tune in Real Time. All you need is to make sure that you have a good wireless connection available to your Laptop when connected to your car. An have a Remote Connection program like " Team Viewer " installed and running. It's free for Home users: https://www.teamviewer.com/en/?pid=google.tv.missp.s.ca&gclid=CjwKEAjwqdi7BRCL6Zmjk5-rsTwSJABmrVab40mPv8TXqOzntxSazdMJkq5V40-9WCUgkaod0pF2_hoCgwXw_wcB

I think the comments form the guys who despise it are from the ones who don't properly understand any EFI systems. The capabilities of modern stand alone EFI systems are pretty similar. The differences are in the User Interfaces. Some GUI' are better than others. There's also the issue on the build it yourself kits is that some people just don't have the necessary electrical and soldering skills to assemble the kits. There's a heck of a lot of difference from soldering automotive wires or house plumbing and electronics soldering. Unfortunately those people tend to over estimate their skills, and then end up with problems. Human nature being what it is, they then blame the manufacturer for their own lack of skills The kits are really for those who are experienced in working on electronic circuit boards and soldering small scale electronic components. If you are not experienced with that, then you are far better off spending the extra money and buying the professionally built units. Just my .02c

MegaSquirt is really nice to work with. And they have a ton of support on their forums. I don't know if I've mentioned this already, but this is an excellent book to buy for people building and tuning any Stand-alone EFI system. Highly recommended!! Performance Fuel Injection Systems by HP Books. DIYAutoTuning developers Matt Cramer and Jerry Hoffman are the Authors. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/ Amazon.com and all online book retailers can get it.

And just so you don't think I'm trying to hide something with my edits. I have a brand new Fuel pump ( In tank ) sitting in front of me for my 1998 Audi. It has TWO pre-filters included in the installation package. Do you want me to include a picture???? Airtex has over 45 videos' of in-tank fuel pump replacements. EVERY one I've looked at has a pre-filter of some sort on them.

I edit my post for Spelling errors. All the time. I don't like bad spelling. I also add links with my edits. Don't try and make out that I'm trying to change content with my edits. And OEM manufactures certainly do use pre-filters ( Mesh screens or Socks ) for the in tank fuel pumps. . They're on Fords. Chevies, Honda' Nissan, BMW, Porsches, Audi, VW's and every car you buy off a show room floor. Have been since the 1980's. That's a fact and cannot be disputed. Period.

Installation instructions from Bosch. Note references to cleaning COMPLETE fuel system including fuel tanks. And replacing all in tank strainers Direct link to Bosch .PDF. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&ved=0ahUKEwi9zIPN5MvNAhUJxGMKHcTpBF4QFghXMAk&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.outlawspeed.com.au%2Fsendfile.php%2Fid%2F1bd79dc5646b0592221c3442af7d99df%2Fname%2FWheelBackSpace.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH_AYnAqkOrUSO1Ky8XLkr32xPNRw&sig2=fArAq4pvZUmZeUqgNTFgGA&cad=rja

Airtex is the single largest manufacture of aftermarket fuel pumps in the USA they are not a small company. They also have a massive library of educational video's and articles for the Professional mechanic. Gerotor pumps ( Walpro 255 ) are also much more susceptible to contaminants than Roller Vane pumps. Do some research. You've never seen recommendations for cleaning a fuel tank before replacing a Fuel pump? You've got to be kidding. #1 failure point of replacement pumps is not cleaning the fuel tank. New fuel tanks are pristine inside. 10, 20 or 40 year old tanks aren't. Do some more research. I'm not go to do it for you..... although I could, but I've got better things to do. Like work on my 280Z Modern factory in tank electric pump do use a pre-filter. It is an absolute necessity on Gerotor or Ceramic pumps. It can be as simple as a mesh screen or a " sock " on the bottom of the IN-Tank fuel pump. But they all have them. Exception being Roller Vane pumps as they are like garburators and will happily grind up just about anything in their path. But Roller Vane pumps are noisy and inefficient at the higher fuel pressures that modern EFI systems operate at. ( 3 to 5 Bar ) . They are good for pumping diesel fuels though, as Diesel fuels contain a lot more contaminants than Petrol. Again... do some research. All the info is out there and is repeated over and over again via numerous companies. Quite asking others to do you homework. Airtex just happens to have one of the best Technical archives since they are one of the largest manufacturers of electric and mechanical fuel pumps in North America. You try and make it seem as if they are some small time company in HoBoken and their information is irrelevant. That's BS.

Sorry this is where you are wrong ZH. Nissan originally used a Roller Vane pump which are relatively insensitive to dirt particles. Roller vane pump will grind dirt up and spit them out. A Walpro and similar modern pumps are Ceramic Turbine pumps with extremely fine tolerances and they will NOT tolerate any dirt or rust particles getting through. Pre-filters are necessary In fact, Airtex and other companies demand that the fuel tank be removed and the thoroughly cleaned before installation of a new Fuel Pump or the lifetime warranty is null and void. Here is a Video from Airtex explaining the differences between Roller Van, Gerotor and Ceramic Vane pumps. And the Pro's and Cons of each: Ceramic Vane Turbines are explained at 4:17. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbzEeWy1b3o Note that Ceramic Vane pumps are usually designed as an In-tank pump by most modern manufacturers. The in-tank pump cage usually contains a Pre-filter or sock that attaches to the bottom of the pump. 8:30 in Airtex video. When used as an External inline pump you must have a pre-filter installed for CV pumps. Nissan did not use any pre-filter on the in tank fuel pipes, because they used an external Roller Vane pump and the Roller Vane pump will tolerate contaminated fuel. AirTex, Aeromotive, Mallory and all electric fuel pump manufacturers recommend some form of pre-filter when using a Ceramic Turbine pump. Either in tank or external.

ZH has a very good point. German manufacturers like to use Multi function relays instead of individual relays. They have multiple sets of contacts inside controlling power to different circuits, such as Fuel Pumps, Ignition and Injectors. One set of contacts can fail while another still works. Might be an idea to get a new ECU relay or at least test the old one to make sure all the contacts are working correctly. Sometimes it's faster just to pop the cover off and give it the old " Sniff " test. Burnt out coils have a distinctive odor.... and you can usually see any discoloration of the windings. Pitted or corroded contacts can be viewed with a mgnifying glass.

^ And of course if you already have the BMW harness routed and all connected, you can leave it in place and just change the ECU side connector. All standalone ECU's use standard electronics grade connectors which are easily sourced