Chickenman

A Crane Hi-6 CDI box is a better choice IMHO. Much better quality and reliability. Failure on the Crane boxes are rare. Combine it with an LX91 coil and you're golden... Edit: If you keep your stock Nissan Trignition box you could use the Crane Hi-6S inductive box. This is a Multispark inductive box, but requires an electronic Module to serve as a trigger. The HI-6S is about $100 cheaper than the Hi-6 CDI but still has a rev limiter, multi-spark and more than enough spark to fry your dinner. Will work very nicely with stock coil as well.

Yes, it is a definitely a steep learning curve. I'm glad I setup my HalTech system on a bench tester before installing ( still some time away ). This enabled me to get used to the system, generate some off line Maps and find out some of the " quirks " in the software. I swear to God they must have had multiple Programmers making the software as some things make perfect sense and are intuitive, and then there are sections that seem to be designed by the " Cookie Monster ". For MS, at least the OP has one of the most knowledgeable and active ECU forums on the planet. Thanks to the DIY philosophy and " Open Source " .And they fully support all of their older products.

Here's the Trigger wheel you need for your MS2 ( if you don't already have this ) https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/ Click to enlarge:

OK... Go read your Tuner Studio Manual. You have your Ignition Trigger settings wrong and a MS2 ECU needs a special trigger wheel for the Nissan 300ZX Dizzy. An MS3 apparently can support the stock Nissan Z31 trigger wheel, but the MS2 cannot. Read the following link and purchase the DIY trigger wheel described . Make sure you read the WHOLE article, as there is very important information contained within, and you may have to make some Hardware changes to your MS2 board ( if they have not already been done ) https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/ Without installing Tuner Studio on my PC ( Now 2:35 AM ) I don't have all the options available in front of me. Edit: But below is my best reckoning by reading the TS User Manual are the recommended settings by MS when using their special Nissan disc. Note: Many of the below sections are currently " Greyed Out " because you have the Main Spark Mode set wrong. Once you have the new Trigger wheel installed, the following settings should work: TunerStudio settings (Batch fire / wasted spark or single coil) Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings: Spark mode: Toothed Wheel Ignition input capture: Falling Edge Spark output will depend on what output setup you’re using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted.Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting. Settings under Basic Setup -> Trigger Wheel Settings: Trigger wheel arrangement: Single wheel with missing tooth Trigger wheel teeth: 12 Missing Teeth: 1 Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.) Wheel speed: Crank wheel TunerStudio settings (Sequential coil on plug and / or sequential fuel) Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings: Spark mode: Toothed Wheel Ignition input capture: Falling Edge Spark output will depend on what output setup you’re using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted.Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting. Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings: Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel with missing tooth Trigger wheel teeth: 12 Missing Teeth: 1 Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.) Wheel speed: Crank wheel Second trigger active on: Rising edge Trigger Wheel settings are critical. I would highly suggest that you go to the Mega Squirt Tuner Studio forums to get the EXACT configuration. But give these settings a try first and post back with results. Take a new screen shot of your re-configured " Combined Ignition Options " . I think this will get you headed in the right direction..

Looking at your screenshot of " Combined Ignition Option " in post #7 I think you have it configured wrong. 1: Spark Mode should not be " Basic Dizzy " That affects all other settings and many of them are Greyed out, such as " Use Cam signal if available ". You need a Trigger ( Crank signal ) and a Cam signal ( Home signal ) to enable using Programmable Ignition Timing. The way you have it setup according to that screenshot on post #7, the ECU thinks you are running a regular Distributor with Mechanical Advance weights and a Vacuum advance Pot. I'll have to check the MS software... But you should have a Pull Down Option to to use Nissan Z31 trigger wheel. But it's 2:00 AM and I'm going back to bed....

MS Extra should have it's own built in Coil drivers ( BIPS373 ) . Since the car runs, it obviously has them installed. You don't need an external Coil driver or module. I think you should be heading over to the Mega Squirt forums and seek more help there. Huge amount of info there. BTW, some advice. You said you haven't tuned your Fuel Map yet. In that case make your Ignition Timing Map VERY conservative. Limit maximum mechanical advance to 28 - 30 BTDC. Idle advance of 10 to 12 degrees maximum ( with stock Camshaft ) . 15 Degrees maximum idle advance with a Stage1 or Stage 2 camshaft . DO NOT ADD ANY EXTRA LIGHT LOAD ( Vacuum Advance ) ADVANCE. The last thing you want is too much Ignition advance and then run into a lean spot on the Fuel Map . Once you have your Fuel Map tuned and AFR's all sorted on (preferably ) a Dyno, then start fine tuning your Ignition Map. Of course you are running a Wide Band AFR meter... correct?

Have you gone to the Megasquirt Forum and checked there? That would be the best place to start. That being said I think you have a Software setting wrong. To me it looks like you have " Fixed Advance " still activated. You are supposed to lock the Timing ( Fixed Advance ) to adjust your Tooth/Ignition Offset in the program. BTW, you should not be turning the dizzy to do this. ( Read up on rotor phasing ). Once you have verified with a timing light that your have your Ignition offset correct, then you have to Apply or " Burn " the settings. That locks in your Ignition offset. ( Which, by your screen shot, is 15 BTDC. That " coincidence " is a big Red Flag that your Ignition Timing is still in " Fixed Mode "). Next you have to go back into " Fixed Advance " and change it to " Use Table ". Then you have to " Burn " it again. Think of the burn button as an Apply button. After you have made changes you have to remember to " Burn " them. Otherwise as soon as you turn the ignition off, any changes you make will not be retained and it will revert back to previous settings. After " Burning " the settings, turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds and then turn back on. New setting should be applied. ( Not sure if MS requires the ignition to be turned off then on again, but it doesn't hurt. MS Forums can answer that ). Read the following link and make sure you understand it. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/base-timing/

I've done that myself and it's one of the first things I now check for Rich running issues. I'm going to be rewiring a friends car, and all those Bullet connectors are going bye bye. It's getting Deutsch connectors for everything. CTS and TTS are going on a 4 prong Deutsch connector so they can never be mixed up again. Edit: Did the solution hit you around 3:00 AM? That's when I usually figure things out.... after tossing and turning all night. Keep a notepad by the bed...

Just another thought. Simple thing, but it's tripped me up a couple of times. Check the coil HT lead with an Ohm Meter to make sure it's still OK. Or try a known good coil lead. They can go bad, especially cheap brands such as Taylor and a few others. You should be using a good Spiral Core spark plug lead set such as NGK, Magnacore, or MSD. Absolutely no solid core wires or carbon resistance wires.

OP mentioned this car has an 82 to 83 Optical Trigger, so no ignitor on Dizzy to worry about. OP are you getting strong signal counts on both Trigger and Home when you spin the Dizzy by hand? BTW, it may have been a Typo, but the trigger wheel in these Dizzy's is 54mm in diameter. Not 50mm. A 50mm Trigger wheel will fit, but it won't work properly. With distributor out of car, upside down with spline facing you. 4 prong Electrical terminal at 12:00 O'clock. Connections on Optical Dizzy are as follows. Trigger +12V Home Ground Check the 12v feed at the Dizzy. It should be a solid 12 ( or battery volatge ) when ignition is turned on. Then make sure that when you crank the engine, you still receive battery voltage at this connection. Grounds are critical and can do funky things. Check them all carefully. Dizzy ground should go to a clean stud or bolt on cylinder head or block. ( No paint or rust at this ground point ). All sensor grounds from MS3 should go onto this same ground point on the engine. Main ground from MS3 should go to same ground location on engine. Next... run a LARGE gauge ( minimum 10 to 12 gauge ) grounding wire or ground strap, from the same ground location on the engine directly to Negative battery terminal. Attaching grounds directly to the Negative battery terminal is a big No No. Edit: You don't believe you run a Ballast resistor with the MS.

Obviously, draining the fluid and checking the magnet for metallic pieces or very fine magnetic " Fuzz" is also a good idea and will give you a good indication of any problems. An quick and easy way to check a Torsen is to put the rear up on jack stands and have the car in neutral. Spin one wheel by hand. The other wheel should spin in the opposite direction like an open diff. Feel for any roughness or noise from the diff. This will show any damage to ring and pinion. Then, while spinning one wheel by hand, have a friend put a light load against the the other wheel. This will cause the worm gears and sector gears to rotate. Any graunching, locking, roughness or noise will indicate damaged gear or worm or sector gears. Damaged Torsens can work amazing well for a fairly long time in straight line acceleration, while slowly eating them selves to pieces when you turn corners. The Worm and Sector gears are the highest load points. Those often fail because of high shock loadings (Avoid doing burnouts with a Torsen ) or because the support shafts start to ovalize the holes in the diff carrier. The Worm gears then try and " walk " away from the sector gears and it's a slippery slope to failure from there on. Torsens are not good diffs for a Drag car. Awesome for corner carvers though. The smaller the ring and pinion is, the smaller the internal gears have to be made so that the diff carrier assembly can fit inside ring gear. Smaller components ( worm and sector gears ) cannot " reliably " handle the placed through them. Anything under 8.2" in R&P diameter gets iffy for Torsen reliability with big engine Torque and sticky tires. I believe the R180 R&P is approx 7" in diameter. Combine that with an LS1 and burnout... well I think you get the picture. I Autocrossed/Hillclimbed a high HP 1986 Camaro in the early to mid 2000's with a Torsen and communicated quite extensively with Zexel Torsen on their design for the GM 7.5" and 7.625" . Zexel had a real design problem with the durability of the gears and carriers in these cars. GM 10 bolts with a ring gear Diameter of 8.5" , Chrysler diffs and Mustang diffs with a gear diameter of 8.8" had no such problems. Zexel had to limit the Torque Bias initially on the GM 7.625" diffs as running high Bias ratios would cause excessive loading on the too small components. Eventually I had to switch to an Eaton style plate Posi with carbon clutches to handle the Torque and sticky tires when Autocrossing and Hillclimbing. I was only getting about a season and a half out of the Torsens. Zexel actually considered that very good, as some of the competition was only getting 6 months out of them . It was a DD as well. Handling with the Posi wasnever as good as with the Torsen, but I just couldn't afford replacing the diffs all the time.

Don't forget the drive spindle. Turbo dizzy takes a special " splined " type. Part # 15040-P8000 I'm going to use an AEM 24+1 ( 54mm ) trigger wheel in my Turbo dizzy. AEM #30-8762. Couldn't find a Z31 trigger wheel at the time. They were on BO at Megasquirt

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about it.... unless this is an all out race engine constantly turning high RPM's. The distributor shaft is located by collars in both the oil pump and distributor drive end. This controls any primary oscillation of the shaft. The timing cover bushing is simple drip lubrication, not forced lubrication. It is not a high load area at all. It may be a good idea to replace the spindle shaft, the tangs on the ends do tend to wear and that can cause spark scatter. One you replace the spindle,check the specs again. A new spindle may tighten up the specs a bit. If it is still out of specs, then you could consider a new timing cover... if available. If not I would take it to a machine shop and have a thin wall bronze bushing installed and honed to size. It may be more trouble than it's worth. The fact that the factory service manual does not list a specification for this measurement should tell you that this dimension is not critical. In an L16 race engine turning close to 10,000 RPM... yes it may matter. On a stock or mildly modified engine running on the street, I don't think the the clearance is critical at all. Frankly this is the first time I've ever heard it mentioned.... Edit: It's interesting that only Tom Munroe's book lists this dimension. I've got the original version of: " How to Modify Datsun 510,610, 240Z engines & Chassis " by Bill Fisher & Bob Waar . And I also have " How to Modify Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine " by Frank Honsowetz " . Neither of these, nor any of the FSM's, mention anything about the TC bushing to spindle clearance. I don't have Tom Monroes book, but it does seem to be something for a Race Only engine... and not that critical IMHO.

Nice welds

The Techno-Versions Tach Match TM-03 may be a better option than the MSD or Crane Tach adapter. Cheaper as well. http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html

Don't forget the Tach resistor. You still need that wired in I believe.

240Z tachs were different in the early years. They were a current loop style much like a Smith's. Around 1973 they changed to an RPM sensing type which should work with a Mega Squirt or any other ignition box with a Tach output. You may or may not need a Tach adapter on the later styles. Part # 24855-E8200 ( before 08/72 ) is current sensing type which is difficult to get working with stand alone EFI systems or aftermarket ignition boxes. Anything after that should work. 260Z and 280Z Tachs for sure are RPM sensing. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/meters

Why go with a factory ECU at all? With all the modern stand alone options available these days you are much better off going that route IMHO. Megasquirt, Haltech AEM and Microtech, are just a few of the options. Value wise and support wise, Mega Squirt is hard to beat. Even for the older series. I'm currently in the process of converting my 1976 280Z to a Haltech E11 series. have all the parts now, just waiting on time and weather.

Doesn't look too bad. Is that the stock cable mounting location? You may want to change the angle of the cable a bit, maybe raise it up some so it's not pulling at such an acute angle relative to the bell-crank. That may smooth out the first few degrees of travel. You could also try using the outer Cam, with has a larger radius and should smooth things out a bit. All sorts of asymmetrical throttle cams available on E-Bay. BMW also have a very asymmetrical Bell-crank that you could adapt. Click on picture to enlarge:

HalTech should be really easy to find in NZ. Very good systems. Mega squirt should also be given consideration. Technical support forums are probably the most active and informed of any, and you can always seem to get a fairly speedy answer to just about any question.

At low throttle openings and light load, an engine requires more Total ignition advance. Typical cruise numbers can easily be around 45 degrees BTDC. How does the ECU compensate for light load factor and additional engine timing? Does it use a MAP sensor? MAP sensor may be faulty, or mismatched. On a NA L28 ( or L24, L26 carburated cars ) with a vacuum advance pot, the vacuum advance adds additional ignition advance at engine loads. Having the vacuum advance disconnected can lower engine fuel mileage by 5 mpg easy. More modern ECU's eliminate the mechanical advance and vacuum advance of the old dizzy's, but still calculate ignition advance by RPM ( mechanical advance ) and Load ( vacuum advance ) . They are dependent on the MAP sensor for that. A faulty MAP or incorrectly matched MAP will affect the LOAD values and thus Mialge. Might be an idea to check out the MAP sensor carefully. Make sure it is accurate ( Test with DVM and Hand Vacuum Pump ) and properly matched to the ECU. By properly matched, I mean don't use a 3 or 4 BAR MAP when a 2 BAR would suffice. Resolution goes down on the higher BAR rated MAPS.

The TPS has nothing to do with the feel of Throttle sensitivity. TB sizing and linkage do. Send us a picture and specs of your TB and linkage. Most problems with a TB that is too sensitive have to do with improper linkage angles or too large of a TB diameter for the engine size. Cable linkages are usually " easier " to drive than the OEM Pushrod style, because you can use a rotary style cam. These cams can also be made asymmetrical, allowing a slow gradual pull at first then ramping up later in the pedal travel. http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/TB-linkage-c.htm Click on thumbnails to enlarge:

Heat soak from Intake manifold is a problem with IAT sensors. It is recommended that they be mounted ahead of the throttle body for that reason. With a stand alone system, most of us ditch the archaic Vane style AFM. Replace the AFM with a section of SS or Aluminium tubing and weld a bung into it. Perfect location. You can get the SS or aluminum tubing in what ever diameter and length you need from places like www.SiliconeIntakes.com. The SS or aluminum bung ( 3/8 NPT for recommended GM IAT sensor ) can also be sourced there. Summit, Jegs etc are other suppliers: Ghetto method would be to use some PCV pipe of the appropriate diameter to fit the Boots and tap that for the IAT sensor.

Just be aware that some of the older software ( 16 bit ) will not work on 64 bit OS systems. Well. it won't work without a few tweaks. 64 bit OS's will natively only support 64 bit and 32 bit software. Not 16 bit or DOS. However, old 16 bit programs can be made to run on 64 Bit OS with a program called Setup32. This is a 32 bit emulation installer that enables you to install and run 16 bit Programs on a 64 Bit OS. Here is the link showing how to use it. Note: This is from a HalTech forum, but it will work with all Tuning Software. Or any other old 16 bit Games and Programs. http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=11540 Here is the direct link to download Setup32.exe: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwibDCBlENP_R044RUg0NFhFb3M/view

Regarding alternators. Easiest way is a a straight lug and play swap to an externally regulated alternator from a 1977 280Z. 60 Amp. RA has AC Delco reman units on for $47.79. Part # 3341567 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1001887&cc=1209248&jsn=602 Pickup an new external regulator at the same time. The trick external voltage regulator to get is a solid state model. No more mechanical relays. The solid state ones are much more accurate and reliable than the old relay style. A friend of mine has been using a Solid State voltage regulator on his 510 for over 10 years with no issues. The VR's with a short case are usually solid state. RA has an Airtex/Wells unit on for $26.79 Part # 1V1243. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=936854&cc=1209248&jsn=611&jsn=611&jsn=611 Of course if you want to go to an Internal regulated model, you can use a 1978 280Z alternator or a 1979 or later 280ZX alternator. You will have to modify the external voltage regulator wiring though. Lots of info available on that as previously noted. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html I'm currently installing an 80Amp Mitsubishi alternator from a 1985 Maxima onto my 1976 280Z. Internal regulator, 80 amps, single groove pulley and bolts on to stock mounting. Have to change alternator plug and rewire system to use internal regulator. No biggy.