Kevin.pk

not going to happen... http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Since I apparently like to start multiple projects before finishing any single one project.... I started to mess with the wiring a bit. It looks like I only have about 8 wires going through firewall to the front lights and horns. I moved the 4 fuse terminal inside the car, directly next to the main fuse box. I still need to route the main power wire to the fuses. The fuses there are just placeholders. A couple of them are lightly melted from the fire, so I am going to replace them. Stitch welded the frame rails. Inner Fenderwell pretty much fully welded up.

First forum on the main page of the forums under FAQs.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/38-faqs/ They were taking up so much space on the first page of each subforum that the admins put them into a separate forum.

In the description for the camber plates on TTT website..... http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=648

Yep, the battery tray was pretty rough, much like every other S30, lol. I can imagine the repair wasn't cheap, it certainly isn't a simple repair. It sucks tearing the whole thing down but there are obviously some areas that really need to be addressed. I haven't made it up to cars and coffee since some time last year actually but I'll be up there with a friend of mine with a Noble M12.

Bent up and welded a new section to finish out the inner fenderwell. I was thinking about moving the battery back up front but decided to keep it in the back. I still need to figure out where it'll end up, but we'll have to wait and see if I end up regretting that. Started applying body filler.... I haven't done any body work really in 6 years... I'm a bit rusty but I remember how much I hate sanding. Lots of work still left. I also went ahead and yanked the engine and trans out to make working on everything a little easier.

The jtr kit puts the engine about as far back and low as possible... You have to remove the hood latch with jtr mounts too. Are you sure you aren't thinking of the MSA or scarab mounts?

3" tube to 4 bbl carb.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Procharger-low-profile-carb-Hat-Blow-Thru-4150-/200656003564?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb807a1ec#ht_500wt_1202

EMWHYR0HEN did it on his VQ powered car. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69340-project-vq-is-underway/page__st__120__p__671392#entry671392

I've heard of people driling a hole in a couple pieces of wood the size of the fuel line's OD and pulling it through the wood. Google search " straighten aluminum hard line" and you will get a few hits from random forums with varying solutions.

So I decided to cut some more holes in the car.... Go back to post 47 and you'll see what I am addressing here... or if you are lazy like me... here is a quick recap... When I initially pulled out the poorly installed roll bar hoop I just tacked in some sheet metal over the holes.. then car caught fire... and it was put off... etc..etc.... Previous temp "solution".... and currently... just need to cut out some steel and weld it up. Firewall patch welds ground down... and I made the fatal mistake of putting the car entirely on Jack stands.... this thing is never going to be done.... lol

Fox body mustangs have a 4x4.25" bolt pattern. Our datsuns have a 4x4.5" bolt pattern.

Some more chop chop destruction.....

welp.... operation fuel cell deconstruction is a go.... yanked off the hatch... got one side out... after a couple hours waiting for my air compressor to keep up. what was removed....

Sounds like an interesting idea. I'd see about smoothing out the stock taillight panel with fiberglass over the original reverse lights and just use the mustang ones. lol... probably more work than it's worth, though. I would just weld them up. No point in building the car for the potential second owner. I'm guessing you're trying to avoid painting the rear panel though.

Tacked in the new firewall sheet metal. Pulled out Gas tank and battery. This is the next "mini" project... while I'm at it... Plan is to essentially throw the entire previous setup in the trash... A LS1 camaro fuel tank will go in its place. I'm not entirely sure what I am going to do about battery placement though. Of all the work on the car I was always most ashamed of this cluster f*@# back here.

Metal work other than the battery box is pretty much finished. All unnecessary brackets removed...Welds ground down...etc...

Firewall pretty much fully welded up... need to remove that throttle bracket and fill one last hole. Not the one next to the bracket... that is staying for the throttle cable. Rusty firewall section cut out.

Yanked out dash, hvac, etc... (all the brown/orange stuff is left over insulation not rust) Cut off some of the brackets in the engine bay that were used for the stock motor. Most of the above came off the driver's fenderwell... Made a few holes where the factory spot welds were, so they were welded up.... Been looking at different ways to run the wiring after the holes are plugged up. Almost thinking of trying to run the chassis wiring through the frame rail since the only parts it contains are wiring for the headlights, horns and turn signals. Also thinking about using a weatherpack bulkhead connector for the engine harness and maybe the chassis harness too... something like this..... http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Weatherpack-Bulkhead-22-Pin-18-14/dp/B005O0V5JQ

Finished welding up the passenger side... need to revisit some areas still. Welded up EGR and smog pump ports on passenger exhaust manifold. Welded up all the holes from the hood latch bracket and a few others on the firewall. I got pretty much all of the ones that lead into the cowl area. I still need to rip out the dash to get to the rest that are lower on the firewall.

Got a new bottle of gas and getting to work. I had to go to a couple places before I found a place that wasn't trying to rape me on gas or hydrostatic testing. One place wanted $60 for the hydro test... f*** that I'm holding off on the battery tray until i feel like yanking out the dash and filling all the holes on the firewall. Started welding up the holes in the engine bay and grinding them down...

Picked up a mig welder. I've been using a friends welder for the mounts and such. I figured it was about time to pick one up for myself and stop mooching off him. I still need to get some wire and exchange for a new gas cylinder. It's nothing fancy but it should be adequate for some light sheetmetal duty. I'm sure I'll upgrade at some point but it should do the trick for now. It's a Lincoln sp-135plus 115v. I was glad to find a 'plus" model because the voltage setting is variable and not tapped for only ~4 settings. Guy who i bought it from only used it to build a fence ~5 years ago and its pretty much been sitting dormant in his garage since then. Plan is to weld in new sheetmetal at the battery tray and then probably end up filling some of the holes in the engine bay/minor seam welding.

This is my 78 280z hub. It measured ~71.98mm. But there is a very slight radius where the center piece meets the hub face where it isn't completely flat. 73.1mm total seems like a fair estimate for that though.

lol.... I don't know any sources for a cell that is tapered like that. If you are set on it though, I think your best bet is to have one fabricated by a shop. Mainly because if you do find one, I doubt it will be at the correct angle to match the slope at the back of the Z.

My vote's for marks car.... but here's a couple of mine...