Kevin.pk

Saw your PM but decided to respond here. For the stock top hat, there are two different type of stock hats. One has a center perch for what I think was a shock boot. Its a flattened section that has the perfect diameter for a 2.5" spring. All I did was weld in a 2.5" piece of exhaust tubing in the center to keep the spring centered this pic is a comparison of the two types of stock spring hats and this is before i welded in the exhaust tubing in the center. I used the one on the right, you could probably weld a center ring on the left one as well. As far as saving a buck to install coilovers, unless you get a deal on springs it will likely come out to similar a price as just going with Ground Control.

Started Body work on the hood New Stickier Tires upfront 235/40/17 Toyo R888 Bung welded in for wideband NGK AFX wideband

Boss adapter finally came in so i could install the new steering wheel.

Radiator developed a small leak so ordered up a replacement Installed a 26" x 19" Griffin Radiator. Tight fit. only 1/4" of clearance on either side. (note: pretty sure 240z frame rails are narrower at radiator and this would not fit in them without cutting) Decided to change my mounting style with rubber isolators at the top and bottom. Used a cut up bungee strap for the isolator Old Radiator Pulled Used a nut sert at the top of the radiator to install this bracket I bent up. Had some difficulty getting the intake ducting to get around the water inlet. Going to have to revisit that and possibly re-route the piping to the other side. Only one isolator is installed at the top in these pics. Finishing up the other one today.

^from youtube comments It's not my cup of tea, but nice to see the guy has a good attitude towards criticism. From the the comments he modified a system for a 2004 bmw 525i

I didn't take any more pics when the dash was out and its back in now. Haven't hooked up the A/C or heater hoses yet either. Gotta love TX weather... as soon as it is warm enough to drive the car without heat, I'd rather drive it then finish the heater install and when it is cold, i don't want to go in the garage to work on it. That situation won't last when summer rolls around though. Not going through another Texas summer without A/C.

Thanks It's a big leap to make that first cut.

Didn't take any process photos, but installed LS6 PCV setup. The small U-shaped hose is all that is exposed now. Installed the spoiler Picked up fender liner for the passenger side.

Got some new parts. Found a stock non vented hood on craigslist. Turns out it is the matching hood to my driver's side fender. Person I bought it from bought it off the same guy as i bought the fender from. Just need to get a passenger side fender and i'll start prepping them all for paint. Happy to have a nice fitting hood. Will have the fiberglass one up for sale.soon enough. MSA Victory spoiler. I think. Not installed yet. Still debating on whether or not i want to mount it. Momo Prototipo Steering wheel Waiting on the hub to arrive to mount it.

X2 One of my wheel cylinders sprung a leak last week and I want to be done with these ole drums

Food for thought: I had my stock stubs redrilled by local machinist for $120. (they welded up the old holes and machined down the mating surface smooth as well) Modern Motorsports used to do them for $150+ core and they welded material around the near edge holes.

One consideration about the aftermarket units is that most only have the option for recirculating air. I'm using the vintage air gen II mini for the under dash unit. I've only mounted and wired it at this point. Not in a rush to get the rest of the A/C components installed since its winter still. I'm using their standard control unit with four basic looking knobs. Looking into making my own panel that fits in the stock location, mounting the rotary knobs to it, and ultimately have some vinyl printed instead of the very basic circular stickers that come on the vintage air panel.

whole engine bay welded up and smoothed. Chassis wiring ran through the fender well. Fusible links/fuses moved inside the car. Engine wiring harness could be cleaned up, but no immediate plans to do that.

I've been running a pc680 in my LS powered Z for a little more than a year without issue. Take that for what it is worth. It is not a daily driver but is used daily. Only issue I have ran into is my own fault. Left my lights on a couple times and came back to a dead battery a couple hours later.

Didn't take any install pics, but the Konis are installed now. Vintage Air Gen II Mini install. Doing the first part of the A/c Heat install. Hooking up everything for the heater for now and then come spring time I'll worry about installing all the A/C components. Working on figuring out the best way to run the heater hoses. Having a hard time deciding to drill through the firewall with all the work to smooth it out. Think I am going to go through the fenderwell. Mounted in the car relays and circuit breaker for power mounted to the dash connector box

if S30- (similar sized wheel) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105013-new-possible-wheel-option/?p=1035982

count me in 1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring) 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Parts ordered: Koni 8610-1437 for the rear m52x1.5 Koni Gland nuts for 280z (PN 73.25.00.025.1) Gland nut tool(5480A13 from mcmaster carr) Started some light body work on fender Welded up the side marker hole. Plan is to leave the seam for the headlight bucket extension this time around, but still smoothing out the side markers. Not an update to the car but an update to my garage. Built a workbench from a kit made by northern tool. Provided some much needed organization to my garage. Need to purchase lower box for the tool box still, but putting it on the work bench will suffice for now.May add a support beam in the middle to prevent sagging over time.

Hood was made by Unlimited performance products. Their site says it weighs 16 lbs.

Looking for a stock non-vented s30 hood in the DFW area. Looking to buy from someone or trade my fiberglass hood if interested. Fiberglass has some light damage on the underside from a fire but still structurally fine. I've just never been happy with the fitment of the hood since I first purchased it and want a stock hood.

Added a second bar to the front strut brace and painted it as well. The two bars are welded every 6 inches or so across the bottom.

Never had issue like that and have a similar cooling setup with a ls1/t56. afco radiator with taurus fan.jtr air filter setup in front of radiator. No trans cooler. No holes in core support filled in. I never get above 215. Taurus fan controlled by ecu or temp switch? Believe Stock fan control setup turns off the fan at certain speed. Definitely odd issue.

The material I used didn't quite hold up to sunlight well enough and got really faded and I pulled out a while ago. Depending on the "stretchiness" of the material used, you may be able to get the side window plastics covered with a single piece You can see in the top left corner of the window in one of those pics how the material i used is split and doesn't cover it completely. The one back piece that is one nice curve is very easy to cover, i never tackled the other side. I pulled out the vent tank and everything and planned on "reshaping" that piece when it came time to cover it. As far as glue, I used 3M spray adhesive. I can't remember if it was 77 or 90. The 90 is a higher strength adhesive.

I would weld some tabs to tie it to the firewall. If it I do that, I'll probably wait until the eventual camber plate install and re-paint it all at once.