Kevin.pk

Drivers mount welded up. I need to trim the corner that is hanging off. Passenger side: first attachment point reinforced. Triangular shaped piece is a piece of angle iron and will be bolted to the crossmember as a second attachment point.

Finished Driver's side mount. Going to weld it up tomorrow.

I feel spoiled rotten with cars in texas... wow. That's pretty fubared.... I'd be worried about what you are going to find under the driver's frame rail where there looks like a piece of sheetmetal was welded over it.

car has been wrecked... not sure if he addressed that issue. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/91793-ironmans-1976-280z/page__st__60__p__946232#entry946232

Definitely not with the engine in the JTR position. That passenger header looks like it is running straight in to the passenger footwell. To give you an idea of the area I'm talking about....

Cut out most of the fenderwell area that will be replaced. I also started to draw out the section of firewall that will be removed. I need to get the dash out and see exactly where I want to cut to avoid as many brackets as possible. also pulled the passenger strut and finished the last of the undercoating scraping... for anyone curious I removed all of the undercoating with some paint stripper, a 1.5 inch blade scraper, and a bunch of mineral oil with a scotch brite pad.

Lol absolutely. It's just so hard not to address the things I've been putting off for some time. At least I'm leaving the front suspension and brakes alone... Probably... Maybe.... Ahhhhh... There is no escaping the infamous "while you're at its."

Update: Rusticular Cancer edition.... You can see some other effects of the fire... the melted Alarm siren... And what it looks like from underneath at the fenderwell.... So that is what remains of my battery box area..... Most of the "metal" that is missing was simply pulled away with pliers. What sucks is that the rust attacked the firewall enough that I am going to have to replace a section of firewall too... yay.. have to rip out the interior now... Not all bad... Now I can fill in the hole where the wiring came through the firewall and send all of the wiring directly into the fenderwell and move the fusebox inside the car. I think I might try and get a hold of a LS1 wiring harness and computer to see how I want to mount and run those wires as well. Pulled out the strut on the driver's side and scraped away almost the last of the undercoating.

Glad to hear I'm not just talking to myself here, lol. I haven't made it out to cars and coffee much this year.... too damn hot.... But I might actually make it out this time. If I do I'll keep an eye out for your 240z. Congrats on the purchase. If you ever need a hand on the car or got a question feel free to ask. SMU is a great school... my sister went there for her first year of law school not too long ago before finishing up at UT, best of luck in the fall.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62279-ls-1-jtr-radiator-question/page__p__575906__hl__%2Bradiator+%2Bhoses__fromsearch__1#entry575906

The first two pics show the center bore diameter as best I could with the tool available. There is a small beveled edge where the spacer meets the hub that I measured too. They should all be relatively self explanatory though. Let me know If you need anything else.

oops... double post.

I've got about 95% of the Undercoating scraped away from the wheels wells. Need to do some minor rust clean up on the driver's side and probably going to cut out the battery box and weld in some new sheet metal too. I haven't fully decided whether I might do some stitch welding while I've got everything torn apart and cleaned up. I know I certainly won't do it later if I don't do it now.... and the "while I'm at it" disease rears it's ugly ahead again... lol Driver's side. Passenger Side I also managed to pick up a LS1 F-body oil pan. I've got clearance at the front crossmember so now I just need to finish up the driver's side engine mount which is already in progress.

Cool deal. It took me a minute to realize but I think the picture you posted was of my brakes, lol. I'll try and yank the spacers off tomorrow evening and get you some measurements... convenient actually because I'm about to yank out the front suspension anyways to finish scraping away undercoating. According to the MM website their spacers are "6" OD 6061 billet aluminum." So there's one measurement down.

I dont know of any other sources but.... I'd contact silvermine motors. They don't list a 5 lug spacer but they might be able to have some made up as they already make a 4 lug spacer for the vented brakes with stock 4 lug bolt pattern. Another option is to have some made at a local machine shop. If you need any dimensions, I can measure my spacers.

Not much progress but... pics of undercoating removal from fender wells.

Awesome. That first big hurdle is done. Now just all the many little things.

Do you mean JCI mounts?

You could use one of these.... http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/600-lb-engine-holder-p-12482.aspx You might be able to find a place that rents them as well. The two stands on either side rest on the strut towers and the center point turns to raise the engine slightly. It suspends the engines weight across the strut towers while you pull the cross member out from underneath.

So a few months ago the Z caught on fire. It was a brief fire but it managed to pretty much destroy much of the wiring along the fire wall and any plastic and rubber in the same area. Limited damage, but enough for me to yank it all out and repaint.... gather my thoughts... and then dive into another engine swap... lol Before fire: After Fire: I haven't had much motivation to work on the car in a while but here's what few things I have done. Burn Victim removed: The engine bay is going to be repainted. I'm still undecided on color. Thinking of going Black instead of body color this time around... there is a chance it could end up white or grey as well... I've started to prep the firewall... Driver's side of engine bay.... I've got the old engine torn out and The new block mocked up. Still need to finish up the mounts. The passenger side mount is a rough draft of sorts.... it;s actually just a cut up stock L-series bracket with a piece of angle iron welded on to bolt it in place on the cross member. That single bolt won't be the only attachment point....rough draft. The drivers mount is about 50% done. It needs the "pedestal" that attaches to the block. The lower half where it bolts to the cross member and the t/c box is already done. A boxed in section will go up to the bolt sticking out of the rubber mount on the block. Things have already snowballed... "while I'm at it" has struck..... I decided to scrape off the fenderwell's undercoating..... going surprisingly smoothly... so far The car is a long way from returning to the road, but I'm really in no rush.

My spacing looks about the same....

thread johnc was talking about.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100525-tep-bolt-in-camber-plates/

That stock top bearing isn't the only direction of rotation. The strut rod doesn't move perfectly up and down. The rubber was designed to take up the "slack" as the strut move through its suspension travel. The strut has to be given a degree of flexibility in the top mount. Aftermarket uses a monoball and the OEM application uses the rubber isolator. The top mount isn't completely fixed into position in either application.

Cygnus, how did you manage to bolt that V8 up to the stock datsun transmission?

Sounds like he is talking about Turbo Meister's car at the end. (1972 240z custom twin turbo sbc)