Kevin.pk

Awesome.Nice to see the car getting all sorted out. Need to update the ol' sig.

I just went to the local parts store for engine mounts. Just tell them you need engine mounts for a 1970 Chevrolet C10 with a 350 in it. This is what it looks like.... Alternatively ..... Rockauto carries them for under $4 a piece. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=226835 1971 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 (E) : Engine : Motor Mount WESTAR Part # EM2282 Engine Mount Front 1/2 TON $3.53

It is nice to see people at least trying some different things rather than the same old same old... looking forward to seeing how it comes out either way.

x2 on that specific wheel. I'm probably a bit biased in the following statement, but I think 17"s can look perfectly fine on a s30. I think a lot of it comes down to the wheel type. A 17" with a stepped lip has a vastly different visual effect than some of the more modern style wheels such as the concave look.

I'm just up the road in Plano. My schedule is pretty flexible to go check it out. Shoot me a pm if emeraldlion can't get around to it.

mmmmm 15 gallons of IPA... that sounds amazing right about now.

here are couple pics of the full exhaust as well. There are number of things I would have done differently now in hindsight. The center muffler hangs down too low, there should have been a flex joint added in, as well as a flanged section somewhere to make removal a little easier. The bends going into and out of the center muffler are really tight. Two separate bullet mufflers with a y pipe could have given a lot more flexibility in directing the piping for less bends. Part of the tight bend on the driver's side was caused by getting around the 700r4 transmission pan. Lastly, next time I'll definitely have it done up in mandrel bends.... This is what I mean about the center muffler and ground clearance issues..... The car was much higher up when I first had the exhaust done and it wasn't an issue at the time. I also went ahead and weighed the full exhaust.... I realized it's fairly hefty at 47lbs.

Thanks for the kind words. I've actually got the car all apart so I can take some decent pics tomorrow of the full exhaust for you. I think my biggest gripe about the current system I have is ground clearance. The muffler I have tucked under the drive shaft just hangs too low for how low I have the car. I'd probably get some smaller bullet style mufflers and a proper y-pipe in place of the single center muffler. As far loudness/sound goes, several of my friends thought it sounded too quiet at idle but when you get on it it's plenty loud. Here are a couple videos...

<-----JEALOUS The car looks awesome and the whole project is nothing short of badass. Definitely keep us updated!

Cable talked about using stock manifolds off of a 98-99 f-body. I believe the driver's side header has to be sightly modified. I haven't done the swap though, so may want to wait for others to chime in. Here's where I read that.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87296-exhaust-manifoldheader-options/page__p__828297__hl__%2Bstock+%2Bmanifolds__fromsearch__1#entry828297

Nice job on the parts list and video. Very helpful for prospective engine swappers.

They are the same. The black car is just exceptionally well done. I think the reason they "look funky" on the white car is because of the wheel fitment compared to the black car. The black car also has the flares bolted on versus molded on teh white. The white car also has some errr...unique vents behind the front wheel on the fender.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58528-wheel-show-post-your-pics-of-you-wheels/page__st__940__p__798233#entry798233 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58528-wheel-show-post-your-pics-of-you-wheels/page__st__1060__p__836503#entry836503

It looks like the inspection lids are the only part of the outside that has been damaged. I haven't cleaned away all the soot to be certain yet. The hood actually looks fine from the outside. I got the fire out pretty quickly... so the damage at least appears relatively minimal so far. you can kind of see the bubbling on the inspection lids in this pic....

I don't know exactly... it just happened a few hours ago. Everything behind the carb/on the firewall is toast though. Gasoline certainly accelerated the fire....

I'm glad I heeded grumpy's advice.....

Not if you want any ground clearance. F-body pan is 5" deep and the LH8 pan is 7.5" deep. The mounts for the LS1 are from JCI(John's car inc/broken kitty) not JTR. JTR does sell headers that work with the JCI mounts. JTR sells mount for old gen 1 and 2 small block chevys.

cheapo grant steering wheel painted white and just a standard white shift knob on my B&M pro stick.

The car pictured actually is supposed to make ~1400hp without that custom aluminum block. The text on that site seems to imply that the company is shooting for 2000hp with the custom CNC block and 9000cc injectors. The amount of $$$$ tied up in that thing has to be ridiculous.

This is pretty rough but how about something like this based off your sketch.

Well I finally grew a pair and cut up my Autometer tach and installed it in the stock gauge cup as well as added turn signal indicators LEDs. I followed instructions from bjhines write up. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/63713-mounting-autometer-5-tachometer-like-stock/ Finished product. And the LEDs lit up. I've also been working on installing the Power door locks and keyless entry. I should have that project buttoned up here pretty soon. That project managed to snowball into removing excess wiring from the rear harness and covering the wiring with wire loom.

the other two links aren't cooperating but I think I found them... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/1816636-markviii-vs-spal-duals.html http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII I got a kick out of the link back to Hybridz on the NastyZ28 forum on page 2. And another thing to note is that the guy from Hollister Road mentions that the Volvo relay isn't suitable for the Mark VIII fan.

Great link. That's actually where I gathered most of my information and the wiring schematic I put in the first post.

You might be able to get by with the 60 amp, but I'm not certain. I had similar temps and slightly higher if I got stuck in traffic here in dallas for too long. My fan was far from adequate for the 100+ temp days last summer. I'm curious to see how well it does this summer as that is obviously my biggest concern. The volvo relay really did make the install fairly simple. Previously, I was not looking forward to wiring up multiple relays together with the 2 speeds, but this simplified it greatly.

I know for a fact that the relay came in the 94-97 Volvo 850. It was used in a couple of other models as well though. If you are looking to grab one out of a junk yard it is located under a plastic trim piece on top of the cooling fan/behind radiator core support. I have a 110 amp alternator.