Kevin.pk

I posted a follow up in my build thread but figured I'd transfer my info here as well. Finished Install pics. I got all the wires covered in wire loom soldered, connected, and tested. I have the temp sensor mounted to the intake but it is at the back of the intake and the coolant dead heads at the sensor. I don't know if its a lack of flow around the sensor or just the time it takes for it to reach temp in general but the switch doesn't kick on until around 220 degrees. I may be moving the sensor to the radiator end tank sooner than I planned. IN the mean time I may just hook up an override switch to ground out the sensor and turn on the fan if the temps creep too high in any kind of traffic. Here is the sensors location at the back of the intake. It was just a convenient location since the port there was already 3/8 NPT. I might temporarily move it to the cylinder head with a 1/2 to 3/8 npt bushing, to see if that has any effect on the indicated temp that the fan kicks on at. Here is the Volvo relay with the wiring loomed up. and the last section of wiring loomed up and zip-tied to the fan shroud. Taurus fan impressions: THIS THING REALLY MOVES SOME AIR! My temps plummet the second it turns on. Works much, much better than the chrome aftermarket junk I had previously. Total cost: ~$180 It would have certainly ended up cheaper if I picked more of the parts up from a pick and pull. The only part that I picked up from the junk yard was the volvo relay because I wanted the OEM connectors.

Actually, after some very limited research... (looked for a 240z speedo on ebay) Structurally, they look very similar. The 240z speedo mounts differently. It has two mounting studs through the metal backing plate. As far as wiring that I mentioned earlier, You could probably just swap your current harness onto the 280z speedo. The lights appear to plug in the same way. The only real thing that is noticably different is the small electrical box plugs into the back of the speedo in a different spot(red wire in below picture) but has the same wires and such. The trip reset control looks to be easily swapped from your 240z speedo as well.

The 280z speedometer is cable driven. The mechanical drive is under that paper in the second picture. The wiring plug for the lighting is probably different and possibly the mounting screw locations but I don't see why the 280z speedometer wouldn't work in a 240z with some modification. Might take a look at the trip meter reset knob thingy as well. I've actually got my dash out at the moment and snapped a quick pic of it without the paper there. If "lonestar" implies you are in Tx and in dfw, let me know, I've got a spare speedo I can throw in my car and you can see this one up close and if it would work in your car.

Finished Install pics. I got all the wires covered in wire loom soldered, connected, and tested. Like I mentioned Earlier, I have the temp sensor mounted to the intake but it is at the back of the intake and the coolant dead heads at the sensor. I don't know if its a lack of flow around the sensor or just the time it takes for it to reach temp in general but the switch doesn't kick on until around 220 degrees. I may be moving the sensor to the radiator end tank sooner than I planned. IN the mean time I may just hook up a switch to ground out the sensor and turn on the fan if the temps creep too high in any kind of traffic. Here is the sensors location at the back of the intake. It was just a convenient location since the port there was already 3/8 NPT. I'll probably move it to the cylinder head with a 1/2 to 3/8 npt bushing, to see if that has any effect on the indicated temp that the fan kicks on at. Here is the Volvo relay with the wiring loomed up. and the last section of wiring loomed up and zip-tied to the fan shroud. Taurus fan impressions: THIS THING REALLY MOVES SOME AIR! My temps plummet the second it turns on. Works much, much better than the chrome junk I had previously. Lastly, I installed a dome light in the interior. It's actually out of a 1996 saturn. The saturn was my daily until a few weeks ago when the engine decided to die after 10 years of service. I sold off the remaining "carcass" but kept a part of it to live on in the Z. I had to make a small slit in the dome panel and cut the "lip" where the original dome light inset slightly. The dome panel is covered in headliner material. Next project I have been working on is the install of power door locks and alarm system. I had them in my last Z and they were a simple enough install in a 76... this 1978 is proving to be considerably more difficult mounting the door lock actuators.

I don't have any experience with the kit/mounts, but JCI(John's cars) makes a kit for the Gen 1/2 sbc too. http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.html For what it's worth, I used the JTR mounts.

I just did a google search for "m10x1.25 10.9" and got this result from bel-metric https://www.belmetric.com/metric-flange-bolts-class-109-m10x125-flange-bolts-c-2_69.html?zenid=v3cjglkf3tnogb3v61l5u6boo5 https://www.belmetric.com/10mm-10x125-fine-c-506_509_405.html?zenid=v3cjglkf3tnogb3v61l5u6boo5

the Subaru studs have a .565" knurl. seems a bit snug compared to the .505" stock knurl. They are the same thread pitch as stock though. Still a bit pricey at $34 for 5 studs.

Taurus Fan Install The parts: 2 speed fan from 1995 3.8l Taurus DORMAN Part # 620101 From Rockauto $94.79 BMW 80 / 88* C (176/190*F) dual temp switch Part # 61318361787 OR BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch Part # 61311378073 94-97 850 Volvo 2spd Fan relay. part # 1398845 JTR Water temp sending unit bushing/adapter http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_BMW-WatTempSending.html 14mm x 1.5 to 3/8 NPT Wiring Schematic. You can certainly grab these parts from a Pick-n-pull and lower the cost substantially more. You could also grab the connectors for the volvo relay and the fan switch too. The fan switch connector can be bought new directly from BMW. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43317 I ended up grabbing a Volvo Relay from a junk yard because I wanted to use the original connectors. Here are the install pics. I am about 90% done at this point. Still need to get some wire loom, clean up the outside of the Volvo relay and waiting on the fan switch adapter from JTR before I call it done. I had to do some minor trimming to the fan shroud to get around the Water inlet and outlet on the radiator. I just Zip-tied the relay to where the coolant overflow was originally mounted. There are two small slots on the back of the relay that zip-ties fit through perfectly. I tested it by just grounding out the two connectors at the fan switch and both speeds work great. Now I just eagerly await the fitting from JTR to road test it all. Initially the Fan switch will get its temperature reading from the intake manifold. The plan is to have a 3/8 NPT bung welded to the radiator end tank the next time I have the radiator out. That will help minimize the wiring and hopefully give a slightly cleaner look.

He said he either had the stub axles already out or was going to in the first post. Rather than yanking my stub axles out, I used a hole saw and cut a 1" access hole in the back of the drum backing plate.

I'll probably go that route if I don't like how the BMW switch works out. The $15 cost for the BMW sensor is really what drove me to utilize it, as well as its two cut in points for the two speeds of the fan. I'll have to see if the aftermarket manufactures have anything for two speed fans or I might try using two sensors. I suppose I should wait and see if I even need the multiple speeds. I really just like having the extra speed if I end up putting A/C back in the car.

The only options I see available for the s13/14 longer studs are nismo. They look like they cost $70+ for a set of 10. They come in 50mm and 60mm sizes. http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-40222-RS015-50mm-Extended-Wheel-Studs-240SX-S13--F-R--S14--R-_p_7864.html http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-40222-RS025-60mm-Extended-Wheel-Studs-240SX-S13--F-R--S14--R-_p_7862.html I'll stick with my ARP studs at 1/3 the cost. EDIT: Found some more on that site... 60mm long. $4.95 for a single stud. Slightly cheaper than nismo... http://www.frsport.com/Circuit-Sports-60mm-Extended-Wheel-Studs-S13-S14-240SX_p_7797.html#f2

I suppose I should have mentioned this is for a SBC powered Z, if that makes much difference. I agree that the second switch(195/210) is probably too high, and I just realized that the listed Fahrenheit numbers weren't correct for the first switch. (I copied someone else's conversions from another site) The first switch should be 176*f / 190*f not 180/195. I thought, ideally, for my application I would want a switch with the low speed coming on at 185 and the high speed coming on at 200. I haven't found anything with those numbers yet.

If you don't mind a change in the thread pitch and obviously buying new lug nuts... Stock thread is M12x1.25. ARP has M12x1.5 with .509 knurl and 2.5" long The ARP 100-7708 Studs for a late model Camaro are what I have on the rear of my car and they work just fine. http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-7708/10002/-1?CT=999

I've been doing my due diligence before I install a 2 spd Taurus fan in my car recently and thought I'd get the opinions of my Z brethren. I have just found the combination of parts from other forums, I certainly don't claim to have been the one to compile the following parts list. The parts: 2 speed fan from 1995 3.8l Taurus DORMAN Part # 620101 From Rockauto $94.79 BMW 80 / 88* C (176/190*F) dual temp switch Part # 61318361787 OR BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch Part # 61311378073 94-97 850 Volvo 2spd Fan relay. part # 1398845 JTR Water temp sending unit bushing/adapter http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_BMW-WatTempSending.html 14mm x 1.5 to 3/8 NPT Wiring Schematic. You can certainly grab these parts from a Pick-n-pull and lower the cost substantially more. You could also grab the connectors for the volvo relay and the fan switch too. The fan switch connector can supposedly be bought new and put together for $8 with parts directly from BMW. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43317 I haven't found a source for new volvo relay connectors though. Unless anyone has any addiional ideas/input, I think this is the route I am going to go with. I'll make sure to update the thread when I perform the actual install in my car with a full write up. Edit: Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion were wrong.

grammer? LOL Been watching old Frasier episodes lately?

Good color choice

I agree with Tony D's posts. A little intimidation is good. p.s. I now read every Tony D post with Walter's voice in my head. p.p.s. LMAO

Here is rags car with 350z wheels and a quote about what he performed.

http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/gallery/joelsr240z.html

As I'm walking in to the local dunkin donuts a middle aged man approaches as I get out of the car..... "I had one of those back in the 70's when I lived out in california. It had a split sunroof that we would take off and cruise down along the beach with it. I got so much pus sy in that car."

"Simple" in the sense that you change out every component of the rear suspension except the lower control arm?

I may be mistaken but did you glue in your windshield? What modifications to make it work? Have you found any kind of trim to close the gap around the windshield/body?

Deconstruction of a "VERY poorly installed roll bar." I came to the conclusion that my roll bar was most certainly not safe and probably did little stiffen the chassis with its current attachment points. Basically it was dead weight. When I welded it in, I was younger and dumber. I never even placed a seat in the car to see how it fit in relation to my head. I was more concerned about placing the hoop in line with the B-pillar . Well to put it simply, while in normal driving position,my head was resting on it. A shorter person may have been able to get away with it, but I'm 6'4" and need every inch of head room I can get..... so out comes the trusty Sawsall/plasma cutter/cut-off wheel/air chisel.... yes I used all of them at some point or another. The goal was to preserve the main hoop so that I could weld it back in at later date(of which I'm not even sure if its safe to do so) Mind you this is one of those S&W roll bar set ups and when i first welded it in, I didn't actually cut off any of the hoop. I dropped it in the seat belt pockets/buckets and welded away and just put a plate around the bar and not under it. Did I mention I was young and dumb when I installed this thing? Here is removal stage 1.... Using a plasma cutter in need of maintenance. I managed to cut out the passenger side with the plasma cutter before it completely crapped out. What I later realized, Is that I also welded the bottom of the hoop to the seat belt bucket..... fun. Stage 2... Sawsall. By far the easiest part of the whole ordeal. The "harness" bar came out as well as the two tubes going to the hatch floor. You might ask yourself why I quoted "harness" bar. For one, I had no harness attached to it. I guess I could have called it a cross bar just as easily... but... I welded 3 separate bars together to drop the "harness" bar back for seat room. So in reality the most accurate term would be "Cross bars" which seems awfully confusing given the circumstances. This use of the Cross bars made it possibly to full position my head into the roll bar. here's a pic of it from way back when.... as well as some pretty disgusting welds. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the other side in the "deconstruction phase." Everything that I attempted on the passenger side, I learned from, and quickly forgot everything I had attempted. The driver's side was 15 minutes with a cutoff wheel and 15 minutes with a air chisel and it was all removed with half the carnage and 1/4 of the swearing. The current state looks like this... (This plate is temporary until I figure out exactly what I am going to do with this mess.) In the mean time, I took the harness bar and chopped of the ends. The resulting bar was cut down to length and my new rear strut bar was born. I actually feel like this single bar has made my chassis stiffer than the whole thing I had welded in previously. END NOTE: If you are going to do something do it right the first time. Either pay someone to do it correctly, research enough until you are capable of doing it, or don't do it all, because it absolutely sucks ripping something like this out.

Correct. Though I'm not sure of the other brake options for this type of setup. The stock S30 caliper/rotor obviously isn't an option. I don't know of anyone who adapted the z31 calipers to the s30 for the 5 lug swap. The S12W toyota calipers bolt on the stock spidle without any modification to the spindle. The Z31 rotor is used with 35mm spacer to center the rotor in the Toyota S12W caliper. This picture might help.... check out this thread for additional info. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/80806-4-to-5-lug-swap-options/page__p__766220__hl__%2Blug+%2Bswap__fromsearch__1#entry766220 As far as the original posters question. I'm not 100% certain about the specific years/models for the correct z31 hub but I know the early Z31 turbo with 5 lug had the correct rotor. If you are buying them from the local parts store, just make certain the center section where the rotor bolts to the hub looks "scalloped" like the following picture.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2460HKR/ Definitely not. The passenger header looks like it's headed straight for the passenger floor board.