fl327

no, my good buddy bought a 72 240 scarab for 500.00 that needs a rebuild.

hey im not trying to discourage you from going wide, thats cool rock your thing baby. im just saying theres no cheap way out of it at some point, why not run some watanabe rs8s they are pricy but you can get them in a 15x10 and 16x10-11 that have 0 offset, and a lot of other japanese rims that i cant afford. then theres always the bfg drag radials...

i think longrod meant that in five years the ls1 will be more readily accessible and easier to upgrade and make really powerful in the typical means of big bore/stroke combos and we will see this generation and older fbodys with ls1 variants. ill take the lt1 for the ease of price and install, and put a carb on it.

motor mount?

after the spacers are done and paid for and you have wheels and tires, you are gonna be out the pockets more than 1k easy, especially with the big meats....

quote: Originally posted by OtakuZ: How much would the overall cost be to convert a 280Z from a 2.8L to a 350 Small block? 500 bucks!!!! im gotta myself.

i think you can tune it out, i prefer the overly active crabwalk you get in scarab, im a cowboy at heart, my car does not have a handling problem in wet or dry. ive got a pretty stiff suspension though, nothing hasnt been replaced or upgraded by yours truly.

them danas have spline shafts as big as a susan b !!! a nine incher should hold good though. but you cant go wrong with a dana dane....

hey just worked it out, thanks terry it worked just great. i bolted it up on the ear first so i could get the nut and a small washer around the back and get some threads down on it, then i bolted it to the control arm, which i had to jack up and move about a quarter inch towards the front of the car to center, tightened those bolts and let it sit there overnight. then in the morning i loosened the back bolt, and put the big washer back in and made sure both sides were threaded the same depth and took her for a spin.....

any carbed 350 will do you right if you stick a lumpier cam in it. t5 from an iroc should be ok if you keep it mild.

i love rwd, and i think fwd makes a good driving car, rwd for racing purposes. when it comes down to it i like rwd for a lot of reasons,but i also think maintenance wise, you ever try to hit the timing belt on a civic? alternator? do a clutch? its a whole different world under the hood, a world that i dont want to enter too soon......

theres nothing like banging gears in an old school man....

1k is a dang good buy in price. the best i can get for the drivetrain is twice that, and i would still have to do the whole conversion.

i like the look without the front bumper, thats the toughest, i think im going bumperettes in the front.

theres nothing to it but to do it, everytime i get under a car its a new experience, and im getting better at it everytime....

my final break down to go ahead and sooner or later run an r230 is wanting to keep my suspension mostly the same and have a tougher rear end with yazzi(posi) and some radical gearing, i cant wait till that kit goes public.

the way i see it, the best rear end to run is the one that best matches your combo or trans gears, intake, cam, power range, etc etc, no matter what car you are in. you run a 3.54 with a mild motor, like mine, once you run that crazy lift cam and the big high manifolds, your low end will be sorely affected by those 3.54s, and that power will be of no use to you on the street until way up high, and you will be slower light to light. yes 3.36 or 3.15 is great with no overdrive, but who here built this car to drive to work on the freeway everyday, and can i get a show of hands for the people who built their ride for performance??? your whole combo should reflect what you are trying to do with the car. no overdrive and 3.90 or numerically higher, your top end is affected but it works with radical combos to make the most useful power the way its supposed to. i dont have an overdrive, and i run a 3.54, im slow on the freeway but its fine, i drive slow in general until its time to rock. if you build a crazy motor that makes that mid and top power, i believe 3.70 and up is in order to maximize your ability to use that power, isnt it?

the gn motor is the ONLY one that would bring me out of my carb setups. theres something so right about that v8 carb setup to me. turbo to me is something only done right with fi, and i would take the leap in a heartbeat if i could.

im not into the two plus two roof.

remember to have a friend with you.

hey rooh, how was that welded r200, i have a spare 3.54 that i want to weld up, my buddy has a welded r180 in his straight six car and he loves it!!!

i think that rear works well in a four cyl 510 because it came with the r160, now if a r180 is not recommended for a modified z car, i cant see that the r160 would be any better, it might be worse. r200 or r230 swap is plenty strong, actually and r200 is pretty tough enough, break that and go to the next level, since the r200 bolts in and r230 doesnt, you may not even need to go the latter.

a typical driveshaft shop can do just about anything. you can get the flange made at the rear end side, that would be the only change i think, maybe different u-joint at flange???

that rubber stop works, its really cheap too,

sounds like a synchro. better get it checked out.