fl327

doesnt hks or greddy make a bolt on kit for that, or you could go the other route and get the manifolds, injectors and all associated wiring and turbo up as well. if you want to really punk out the competitiion for the cheapest and shortest work. nitrous.

im guilty of drag racing people out the toll boooth, its fun. the funnest is when you and your buddies drag race 500.00 auction cars from the auction to see who breaks down first.

atk has good stuff, i think they ship it to your door and take the core back with them if you have it crated when the man comes, really nice. pricy though, but their motors are good.

oh man, as soon as i get the car back and rolling i have one bad ass race right as soon as i touch ground. our buddies shop across the bay wants to run me, his car 1970 chevelle with a hot 454 and a turbo 4 trans, stock gears and rallye rims...whatcha think? we'll see in a week, this ones gettin taped!

hey guys, im sure you guys have run into this one. im in the process of upgrading to a 1516ths master cyl, and i cant get the fittings to break loose, any hints on how to break em free???

hey do you think that motor would fit in a 1971 toyota corolla te27 chassis code? just got hong kong yellow for a trade, its a cool little bugger.

its the one in the center top row,.

i was looking up bushings for a z, the diff mount bushing to be exact, and they say people use this as a diff bushing???? http://www.suspension.com/Bumpstop.htm

lock mechanisms or the rods are loose maybe, thats what it was on my car.

is the r200 rear x member bigger/stronger? going to jy this weekend to get the xmembers, maybe ill just get a couple to see if its different.

thats funny. i remember once my car went up to 220 on a very hot hot san francisco downtouwn summerday in backed up traffic and it held there, i was having a fit, i thought that i was gonna blow the head gasket right then and there, i told my buddies this and they started laughing at me, one of my buddies had a 56 belair that would run 210 on a 180t all day. i guess it was just that i could physically feel how hot the car was of how holy my firewall was being bare steel, hot hot hot. i found that with a 160t, my therm is always open and after a while it would creep and stick to 178 or so, and when i put in a 180t it would stay at 180, and thats fine with me.

hey i used the kragen fuse boxes myself, i run four of them on the car, with one in the engine bay that runs everything from firewall forward, with lots of switches hidden in various places. i spent about 10.00 to wire up my entire car, i have about 50 miles of driving on this new wiring with no issues yet, but it took a long time to do it, painless probably easier, or you could go to the junkyard and grab just about any fusebox and make it work. i have one from a 84 300zx that looks dang good./

those painless wiring systems are very complete and very nice, just too pricy for me.

thats gonna be the next z from me, im pretty sure.

thanks everybody, im going to ditch this solid mount and use a new rubber one i think, get a crossmember, brush myself off, and try again....

i think that the ones with vacum advance will work on a carbed sbc. ones with the computer advance wont work on a carbed sbc. they are pretty easy to tell apart, one will have the vacum advance module, the other does not.

now if you wanted to do something for cheap, i was thinking abotu this myself when i was considering a turbo z car with a stick, was that the 4.3 v6 five speed iroc setups go for butt cheap, considering most people go straight for the eight, myself included, but you could probably even name your price for these setups at most gm salvage yards. they come with a nice tpi setup too, use the same mounts, run a turbo setup on that with some pistons and it could be a lot of fun.

sounds like it may it, the freakin mustache bar, its the soft link in the rear end right now, it wasnt solidly mounted,im running poly bushings in it, and maybe that was hurting the front mount? i remember the first time i went solid i broke the mustache bar in half, it was pretty old and weak do you think if i go with new nissan front mounts, a reinforced cross member, and strap it down the whole system would have enough give to not snap from fatigue loads?

it was a 71 drop top plum crazy 440 dual quads and a mopar off road cam, pistol grip four speed with a 4.10 traction lock dana rear end, wow wow wow....i think im gonna put one on my car, it just looks so dang cool.

isnt a 383 a small block?

im screaming that anyone who does a mopar manual conversion must rock a pistol grip shifter. i wanna see some huge hemi power in one of those cars, man i love hemis. drove a fake hemi cuda drop top the other day, man ive never been in such a big car that accelerated like that, must have been the two carters, whew....sweaty.

the x member sheared on the drivers side, what i did to try and hinder the diff lift was wrap almost six feet of 3/8 plastic coated steel cable around the diff mount and the xmember, and i used nylon cable with the rachet fastener around the arrestor strap and cinched that around the xmember as well, i am running a solid mount as well. maybe it was too rigid? right before it broke the car was performing better than it ever has before, and then snap.

hey ive completely sheared the diff crossmember in half. has anyone beefed up this piece, modified it by welding plates it? ive taken care of the lift of the nose caused by hard acceleration and shock loads, but i think i did it too good and shattered the x member. my rear is holding up well, i do plan an r230 one of these days, but would like to know more about reinforcing the rear end mounts,being that the main reason i want to do the swap is for the lsd and the cv-but what good is any of that if i keep shattering mounts??? any advice is great hope i can help you out one of these days aswell.

running a m21. maybe 250-275 max hp no squat, running eibach/kyb/tokiko coilovers 3.54 r200. r200 is all good, its just the mount thats bugging me, maybe its the violence of the manual trans? ive heard that with an auto the r180 and mounts last longer.

ok here goes, after making everything stiff and getting my car to hook good and run well, making adjustments to timing, fuel pressure,jets, etc etc. i went out "jogging" three nights in a row hard to see how it hangs with imports and domestics old and new 1. 88-91honda civic dohc+turbo yellow with either carbon fiber or black painted hood- used to have trouble out the gate with them, hooked and all i could hear in the background was vtec, blow off, and a second and third gear chirp, far far away 2. a 240z blue with a white stripe down the middle, its too bad he gave up in second, he had a nice car. 3.1999? green new style z28 with a 6speed- first time against one of newer fbodies, beat em, beat em good. raced a 01 ss a while back and bearly edged out, novice drivers us both, ill try the SS again 4.2nd gen mr2red with modena kit turbo- go back to autofreak 5. 80s monte carlo ss black, with a 10-1 350 2004r from a roll on the freeway 6.supratt red with veilside kit and large exhaust-nothing but hook baby, he was was coming back for my ass in third, but these streets arent long enough for his top end advantage. 7.240sx turbo and a primered del sol with open pipes at the same time!!! (refer to 1) yeah im spouting off im happy im finallly gettting the power to the ground, trust me its been a long time coming and i didnt realize before how much of a difference in power and traction can be made without buying bolt on speed parts, all tuning and structural modifications, remember im on unemployment insurance right now. heres the tragic end for the time being. a while back i shattered the diff mount insulator piece in half, right after the flange and the mustache bar gave up on me, i have replaced all and welded and reinforced the crossmember. i broke the insulator again and put in a new mount and reinforced it again with sheetmetal, welds, and the jtr recommended 3/8 steel cable that ties the insulator to the crossmember, they said to wrap it three times, i wrapped it eight times, and i added a racheting nylon strap to reinforce the arrestor rubber strap and wraped that around the crossmember. man, i just snapped the crossmember do you guys think its from putting all the torque loads on it, does this piece weaken after time, did welding it weaken it? halfshaft u joints and driveshaft are good. i understand that people are getting away with even leaving this piece stock and running some really fast times, times i cant match, im thinking of getting a new x member and welding box steel to it? maybe it was too rigid and that caused the break? if that is the case should i go and get a new rubber insulator from nissan and then strap it down? man im almost done with all mechanical and ready to go body, and i know i put a lot of abuse on my car, but man it busted up in one week and it lasted two years before!! any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, very appreciated, man i just started to get this power to the ground and im hooked, just need a little more reliability with it.