fl327

hey everyone, i know this topic has probably been beat to death just as bad as 4x4 brakes but i tried doing multiple searches with no real results. i am about to pick up a 300zxtt r230 from an automatic car and the cv shafts, and want to know: 1. what gear ratio does it have, like a 3.90-4.11 pretty sure its lsd 2. who has or where can i get the connectors to the stub axle side of halfshafts(sorry i dont know the correct name, but its the part of the halfshaft that goes to the inner strut side?) 3. driveshaft flange, should i just grab one from the jy and have the right slip yoke put on the other side? im pretty sure once i get enough info and get the stuff ready im gonna try to stuff up in there, its almost perfect timing, frame is almost done being reinforced, but then again i may hold off until i get more parts together. any help is greatly appreciated, truly. Leonard

i think the ramjet efi motor will require no hood mods to fit it. it doesnt sit very high, it only appears to. remember, theres no carb on top, the highest point is that manifold and i think hotrod magazine measured it and it is actually just slightly SHORTER than a standard carb setup with a dual plane manifold, and one hell of a motor to boot, pricey though, im thinking about TPI myself, for a low revving mild motor its good upgrade and fairly straight, hey LONE i have some tpi setups for butt cheap come holler!

lookin mean. hey im still interested in an r230 mount kit, very much so. hey what are you using to connect them to the stub axle side of the shafts? im picking up an r230 pretty soon.

considering that it already has a v8, and i believe that lt1s can use the same motor mounts and the same position, once you mod up the tranny crossmember to work, motor and trans should take you the better part of one day, assuming that you will have some friends to help install. you are going to go fi with it right? if so, factor in anything from a week or more to set the fi up including fuel injection lines fitting and a return line. oh, and when you do an lt1, its a good idea to put in a new dist cap and rotor in, because it requires you to pull the balancer and i think the water pump, great design there, the dist firing direct off the crank like that and the water pump runs direct, so if a belt goes its not even close to bye bye head gasket time-oh boy.. once everything is in theres the clutch hydraulics, which i think is well documented anyways, may be harder if the car was auto to begin with, the t56 engages backwards, meaning it pull type slave vs. push type which most every other trans uses. you already have an auto so i dont think you have to widen the tunnel any wider-oh boy. if you really kick ass and work on it alot, maybe two weeks to a month. good luck and tell us how it goes, if i ever get around to it i would do the lt1, its a kick ass oem motor, and they do make a carb manifold for it.

triple carbs on anything is pretty bad ass, if you really want to go triple go for it but tuning those things is pretty tough from what i hear, but the induction sound is pretty nice, combine that with a glasspack and you sound like a ferrari. probably wont be a hard install, its the tuning.

i had one of those on my old b16a civic, it held up to daily 8k plus upshifts and downshifts, but the trans and cvs wont!

i used to do the engraving at a gift store, they could do it since those are billet alum. right? yeah our engraver would slice them things up like butter. i would get "BRAKE YOURSELF" on one caliper and "BOSSOLINI" OR "FETTUCINE CAPONE" on the other one in army stencil letters, just me i guess, or even maybe "made you look" nice brakes.

the afm goes bad in a lot of those cars, i would check that first, and failing that bad i would replace most of the smog system except the cats, then test again, if cats fail, then replace, and watch out, i think your car has to super pass by a large margin to lose gross poluter status, and you have to go to a smog station with a tester with a higher liscence, and chevron doesnt usually have one of them cats on the premisis.

forget the track times, we gotta see these two cats run em head to head!

only scarabs can run full length headers?

i would go with a holley fuel pressure reg. 30.00 electric fuel pump, holley again, or one of those purolator ones you can get from any car parts places, they work. or you can run the stock fuel pump and put the elec fuel pump in line, but then again what size are your triples? if they are 40s you probably wont need to change any of that stuff. but i would NOT suggest trying to bolt on the webbers if you are not very mechanically inclined if you rely on it as a daily driver. and do you truly need triples? built motor? its something like an 8hp gain on a cammed motor with more response, a waste of time in my opinion, thats my opinion though. im not trying to discourage you from anything please i hope i dont come off that way, but dont take your ride out of the game for that third carb if you dont need it.

try TRD carbon metalic, any dealership should have them in stock. or metal master from kragen.

i swung three figure 8s in a welded r180ed 240z with straight six, and took several hard corners all i can say is CATCH

you might have to shorten it, it might be too wide as well. but a cage is a cage, its only steel!

im over six feet tall and i fit good in a z, except it looks like the car was built around me! also have to sit with the seat a little bit forward to get leverage to disengage the clutch!

i havent tried tapping tne brakes in forward motion, i have discovered that if you take a left on an intersection hot in first, and hit second and floor it, i will leave a massive two legger and powerslide viscously, front end in the first lane, door in the middle lane and the rear end sloshing out into the third lane, thats what gets the girls. are you running auto and hard tires, that could be the reason that the r180 has been doing you so good. i run a stick and i think my r200 is about to bow out!

hey if anyone is interested i have a set of sidedraft B&M two barrel carbs with the flange that puts them on a four barrel manifold, ultra trick combo, email me if interested i will have photos soon.

for 600.00 nitrous is the way to go, just dont overdo it and have someone install and dial it in for you so you dont blow yourself to pieces if you are not experienced in this.

that shifter is no issue at all it looks like all you need to do is cut about three inches, nothing really. man was it really that simple to drop the motor into place, it looks like all you did was maybe slot the supra mount a little bit and drop it right on! how far is it from firewall, is it a little forward like the stock location? and for the trans mount, please dont tell me its a stock datsun mount, that will just kill me. anyways, that looks really good and hope it runs better, one of these days i can see myself defecting to the turbo camp and may just jump over to a 7m-gte, so i say.

you may want to do some more research on it, but this is what i know about the smog and california, in order to get it to pass all the smog equipment must be there, charcoal cannister, cats, smog pump, etc, etc,... i dont think an oem cat is needed,they bug out more or less on if you have the right number, for example i know a guy who swapped a gt40 crate motor into a volvo station wagon, and in order for him to pass ref station he had to run dual exhaust and dual cats,previous he had a Y pipe with one cat. emmisions results with either system were similar. you can run a big generic cat for your turbo swap, and run every smog device that came with either car, maybe you can plug it all into the stock 280z locations? make sure it all works somehow, and throw a prayer in the air and take it in to get reffed. i think youll pass very easily, since most things in a turbo swap are very straightforward, i guess just use a zx haynes manual countereferenced to 280z manual to route smog equipment???.good luck itll be a winner.

sounds like conspiracy

hey my buddy is looking for a nice bolt on turbo system setup for his z, healthy l28 early z car, wondering if anyone has used the four barrel cannon intake with a turbo charger????

bb zcars are straight line killers i can only imagine, the cubes man the cubes, you can make other motors work to have just as much power, but man its not a big block, cant be a big block, isnt a big block, big block.

why not? you already have the diff and i assume you have an r200 ready to go right? why not weld it up the r180 i mean and give it a couple good dumps for kicks, my buddy runs one on a stock z and gets more sideways than i do and i have a v8! at least sideways easier, and he will hit a posi burnout on call, and the infamous "triple dog dare ya" thats when you dump the clutch into a power brake in second gear. whoa. but yeah, side effects are that you will get sideways whenever you hit a turn at any speed, and people say im nuts, but it strangely appeals to me. but hey, you will get sideways in a left or right, which to me is better than only getting the left to spin in a left turn any day of the week. if you have it in you to swap motors and trans, i assume doing a rear end wont take you that long should something adverse happen in the event you run a welded diff, but hey these cars were made for kicks right? right???? now show me a two legger!

absolutely beautiful. man that looks tough, probably handles better like that too? man i wanna do a turbo hecka bad, but first things first you know, hey i thought i was the only one misusing post office equipment!