PalmettoZ

Excellent fabrication, very neat and clean. I'm jealous. Starting on my exaust soon and you just raised the bar way high. Scott

Hello Miles- Most fuel injectors are set at a max of 45 psi, and less at idle if you have a FPR on your fuel rail that is vacume operated. Does your rail have an FPR on it with a vacume line going to the manifold somewhere? Also do you have your system set up with a return line, and not dead headed at the rail? This is critical. Also ensure that your fuel lines are the higher pressure fuel injection lines and not the standard fuel lines which are made for a lower pressure for carbs. You can also purchase an inexpensive FPR from Summit which can regulate the pressure down to 45 psi. Summit part number is BCH-0280160001, and it is a standard Bosch FPR for a lot of different applications. I put this in my car right after where the stock fuel filter is on the inner fender well. It is adjustable as well- Good luck- Scott

Hey- Yes, it will fit with a stock fuel injection manifold, in fact with lots of room. I'm putting an Edelbrock aftermarket intake which is quite a bit taller and not sure if it is going to clear it or not, its really tight. The stock manifold that I have is off a 95 GT mustang, which is different from the previous generation FE manifolds. Scott

Hey- 105 lbs of cylinder pressure sounds really low. Something is wrong there. My 3.1 that I built last year that had a 306 degree duration and .530" lift camshaft had 200 psi per cylinder. I had Mikuni carbs on it at time as well. Start with the basics and double check the distributor rotor position and cam timing again. I think your cam timing is way off. Even if the bearings were too tight, the cylinder pressure should be higher than that. Also double check your spark plug wire positions and make sure that they are correct to each cylinder. Scott

Hey Phil- Dropped off my drive shaft at CSR on Thursday and the owner said that you had been in there a few days prior and dropped off your flange and drive shaft as well. His shop doesn't look like much from the outside but it appears that he knows what he is doing. Scott

I found this part number with a google search. 16603 P9000 8148. Entered "280ZX Turbo injector" and found it. They are JECS.

I set up my car using Tuner Studio when I had my stroker engine, and its very different from regular MS. It was a NA motor though, not Turbo charged. Not sure if you can copy from existing tables for the ignition. I would contact them directly and ask these questions, since the website doesn't really support the Tuner Studio stuff, unless that has changed in the past 2 months or so. I was pretty frustrated trying to get mine going, alot of differences in nomenclature from the old to the new. Unfortunatly I think your on your own here, since almost all the info here is for MS I,II.

Hey- I left my cell phone on the fence near the garage yesterday afternoon, and forgot and left it there last night. Needless to say its toast after that storm last night. I'll be getting another one after work today, so if you call and I don't pick up leave a message and I'll call you back. Same phone number. Would like to see your project. Scott

Hey Yellowoctupus- You live in Summerville? I live West Ashley. Like to see your car some time, currently putting a 5.0 in mine at the moment. Give me a call at 843-607-0058. Scott

Hey Dpuma8- Tony's correct, what your saying doesn't make sense. You can't fit a cylinder into a bore. Maybe what you wrote is a typo and you meant to type piston?? Also where you measure the piston is important, because it is not the same at the top as it is at the bottom. I would suggest taking the calipers to a machine shop with your parts and asking them to show you how to use it. Also they should have a "master" piece of some time that has a known demension that you can check and verify your caliper with. Perhaps you are misreading your gauge, not possible to have a snug fit with a 86mm piston in a 90.2 cylinder bore. Scott

I have one, I just have to dig it up out of some boxes in my garage. Would sell it for $50.00 plus shipping. Don't know what the shipping would be though until I checked. I have some other stock 280 stuff if you need it. I'm in Charleston, SC- Scott Holcombe 843-607-0058

Hello all- I just recieved my kit today from Brian and wanted to pass on to the group about the quality / fit and finish of it. Very professionally packaged and came complete with hardware and everything else needed to install the block. I also opted for the Tach converter, and it is also a high quality piece. Kudos to you Brian, and I highly recommend his kit to anyone considering putting a 5.0 motor in their Z. Scott Holcombe

Here's mine:

I just had the slave cylinder go bad on mine, I had the same shifter problems as you did. I have a Zoom clutch/pressure plate and the problem got progressively worse until I couldn't shift it at all. I got a stock one off of Ebay, works great. I think they are all the same on the Z cars. BTW, had to replace the clutch master cylinder last year due to leaking. They are not expensive so my advice would be to do both at once.

I looked for the vacum connector when I got your Email but couldn't find it. I will be cleaning out my garage here this weekend so if I run across it I'll let you know.

Hey Padam07- Glad those Mikuni's worked out for you and they have a good home! I think that Tony D once stated that the FET manifold stands for "Far East Trading"? I bought it a couple of years ago off EBAY from a guy in Japan. I think that it was a common JDM upgrade. I'm still pulling my hair out over this Megasquirt ECU, want to sell them back??? JK

It would seem that these could easily be made with a water jet cutter. Have you thought about approaching someone who does this with the idea? They might even have a scanner that could do the measurements off of an existing gasket very quickly. I have a friend who does water jet cutting manufacturing that could easily produce these out of any kind of sheet metal.

Figured out the problem with the Tuner Studio. I experimented with the % settings going from 50% all the way to 0 then back up to 100. At 0% the motor would barely accelerate at all. At 100% it would rev up great just using the throttle and not driving the car, but I couldn't drive it like this since the motor would stall immediately. It seemed to perform best at 50/50 ratio. As far as the stumbling goes, it was just too lean at that particular vacum / RPM range. As soon as I increased the VE table at the stumbling range the problem went away. Although it seems as though this engine likes to run rich in order to run at optimum. Maybe its the big cam, I dunno.

That's the exact cam that I have. I also bought their spring kit/retainers that matches it, and it all goes together correctly and comes with the larger lash caps. The springs are really stiff though, not sure if all that seat pressure is required with that much duration.

Thanks- At the moment I don't have but a few. I'll have to take some in the next few days or so weather permitting.

You know how that goes. 2 years of restoration. I'm really happy with the look of the car, but the 3.1L is just not strong enough for me. Yes it's quick and is more that needed, but I think at this point I am going V8. I just found a 5.0 mustang motor out of a 94 car, complete with ECU, harness, T5 tranny, driveshaft and everything I will need for 400.00. Can't pass that up. Check out my car domain site in the signature if you want to see the build in progress. Here is a list of what is in the car now: 3.1L stroker motor. No, I don't know how much power or torque it has. N42 head with undercut valves and manifold gasket matching. Isky 535" lift cam with 306 duration. Megasquirt ECU with EV14 225cc injectors. Aluminum flywheel. Zoom ceramic racing clutch. Stock 4 speed. Tokico springs and adjustable shocks. Urethane bushings thruout. 17" wheels and rear disc upgrade. Balance bar twin Tilton master cylinder brake upgrade from Beta motorsports.

Thanks for the input. As far as I know, you can only change the % of TPS to vacume thruout the entire RPM range. I don't see a way to adjust the RPM in Tuner Studio. Am I missing something?