PalmettoZ

Hey- Look for the Bosch part number on the side of the connector. It should be a "0280 xxx xxx" part number. Then just google that number and you should find out the flow of that injector.

Hey- For what it's worth, I have bought alot of things from Reddat, and have been very happy with his service. I think something must of happened in the postal system because I have always gotten his products right away.

Hey CalpolyZ- Not quite correct. Recip aircraft engines have 2 spark plugs for another reason, and do not fire simultaneously. Normally there is 2 ignition systems independent of each other in case one fails the other system is there as a back-up. System redundancy.

Hey- Check the last chance filter at the pump itself. Should be where the inlet line connects to the filter itself, looks like a fine mesh screen. If it gets clogged with debris, it will start to starve and cavitate.

Hey- If you are hearing a hissing noise and it won't idle, you probably have a vacum leak. Find out where the hissing is coming from and I will bet that is your leak. Or perhaps the door in your Air Flow Meter is hanging up, not fully closing which is the hissing air that you are hearing.

Very good point. On the other hand, if you were to send in naked hotties with just a canteen and a M16 it would floor the enemy. They might not even get shot at....

Very interesting reading on what you found with the Honda rods being usable in your stroker build tennesseejed. I wondered if there was something out there that was close to compatable in length to a 133mm 240Z rod. You had asked: Mack and I seem to have the same unanswered question: What is the maximum safe tolerance, if any, for undersized rod ends? The B16A rods are .79mm; Mack's Ford rods are .83mm. Maybe one of the many engine builders around here could chime in. Maybe one of the engineers on the site could do a stress analysis with the dimensions of the rod with the different size rod ends. But I would think that undersized diameter would be stronger than oversized diameter though from the original size. So are you are saying that you would be putting in a larger bushing in the rod end, correct ? I am currently building a 3.1L motor and primarily what you will see is a big increase in low end torque, and of course more horsepower due to bigger displacement. But the torque is what will accelerate the car faster.

Hey Dirtbiker- Most fuel injection pumps have a filter at the pump itself. It is more or less a last chance type of screen that stops big pieces of trash from getting into it. I think its a good idea to put a filter prior to the pump, but I don't know of any with a 12mm opening ( 1/2 inch ). You could try one of the big spin on type of filters with the large fittings that you can get off of the Summit website maybe, I bet they flow quite a bit.

Hey- Yea, I have some linkage parts that I got from him already. The T fitting is on back order at the moment. Wanted to make a re-circulating system since I already have the return line from the fuel injection, instead of dead ending on the last carb.

I need one of those T shaped inlet fuel line fittings that goes on top of the Mikuni carb with the 19mm banjo bolt. Does anyone have one to sell ? Thanks-

Hey Attworth- I am currently building a 3.1 liter motor that has a healthy cam and other go fast mods that originally I was going to use Individual Throttle Bodies on. I have new EV14 injectors that are the new style with O rings and use the newer connector that flow about 350cc. These run at a slightly higher pressure (60psi instead of 45psi) and use an orifice plate instead of the pintle valve (EV1 style). This gives a much better spray pattern. I decided not to go with the ITB's since I ran across a set of Mikuni carbs in great condition for 400.00 that I could not pass up. I can look up the Bosch part number on them for you when I get home later this evening and send you a photo if you are interested in them. I am planning on listing them here and on EBAY this week. You would need to use a new style pallnet type of rail and get a variable pressure regulator ( ebay has tons of them with the gage ). I would like to get 200.00 for them.

Hey Attworth- CC's are a metric flow rate of volume in ( cubic centimeters per minute ), whereas LB/HR ( Lbs per hour ) is more of a flow rate of weight of the fuel. This link should be accurate for conversion: http://sdsefi.com/techffhp.htm

Hey Arnz- There is another company that restores dashes here in the states that I've found called "Just Dashes". Check them out at justdashes.com/. If I remember correctly they quoted 750.00 to completely redo a Z dash.

Hey- I did mine, but it is time consuming. I cut the shifter shorter (actually a little too short, wished it was about an inch longer) and then used a bench grinder to grind down the diameter to where a die would fit. You need to keep dipping the shifter in some water to cool it as you grind off metal to keep it from getting hot. Try to keep it round as possible, and the threads will look nice in the end. I also made a brass bushing for it. It shifts super tight and smooth. You can see a photo of it on my cardomain sight on the second page. This was before I put the leather boot on it.

Hey- Thanks, I see your point on trying to keep it original. I would probably try to do the same if I had a rare car like that one.

Hey- I wish it were smoother. The guy who did it said it was hard to get a smooth texture out of it, but at least I know it won't crack. I wanted to do the bottom of the car tinted body color, maybe later on down the road.

Hey ArnZ- I have a suggestion for the dash that might work for you. I didn't like the look of a cap, so I decided to try to refinish mine. I had big cracks in it which I sanded down with a block and filled with bondo, after that I sprayed it with sealer primer and then had it Rhino lined. Cost a total of 50 bucks. Putting the gages back in was difficult, I had to trim the inside of the holes out to get them back in. Check out the photos on my car domain site ( 2nd page ) and let me know what you think.

Here's the link: http://www.peedeestreetrodders.com/

Hey- I am from Charleston originally, and the downtown area has lots of historic things to see and restaurants out the wazoo. I will try to go to the car show in Mrytle Beach, but might have to work that weekend. You can call me if you like and I can try to show you around some. 843-607-0058.

Hey- Awesome work on your car, I would like to see it at the show in Myrtle Beach. Do you know the date in March ?

Hey- I had read your previous post on this and would like to do all of this as well, except there is quite a bit of work for a machine shop and it wouldn't be cheap. I have access to a lathe so I could shorten the skirts up myself, but think I am going to leave them alone. Worried about piston slap if they are too short. Just curious, do you remember the weight you started out prior to machining ? Did you take any off of the skirts ?

Hey 280Z4me- I agree with what you say about the search function as well as the search Nazi's that get into telling you about it. Here is a thought- I am building a 3.1 stroker motor right now, and had thought at one time about taking the 280Z piston and taking 3mm off of the top? Since it is a dished piston, I think the first 1.5 or 2 mm or so is just the dish part and you won't be taking off too much of the actual top of the piston. You probably have some 280 pistons around since you have a motor that you are building, get your machinist to measure the piston thickness at the bottom of the dish before and after machining to see how much is actually taken off of the piston. I don't think that the crown will actually be reduced that much. The only problem this might have is the top ring getting too close to the top of the cylinder bore. But this is a money saver for sure.

Hey Ozconnection- Looking more for the weight reduction without removing material inside the piston. It would be easy to just turn down the skirts on a lathe is what I had in mind. I have heard of some people drilling holes or milling out sections of the skirt to reduce weight. Most of the competition pistons that you see are very short, although I agree with you with what you brought to mind about the piston movement side to side. Wasn't trying to rev harder, just thinking lighter revs up quicker. The crank that I have has the counterweights reduced and I will be using a ligher dampner with single groove.

I just got a set of 89mm pistons for my 3.1L build and am considering shorting the skirts to lighten them up a bit. Has any done this previously with success ? These are stock 89mm KA24 ITM brand pistons. I believe that they are cast pieces. Not very light.

Hey- One way you could check to see if the tensioner is working is to take the valve cover off so you can see the sprocket and chain. Turn the motor by hand clockwise so that there is tension on the straight side. Now take your finger and pull on the slack side of the chain and see how tight it is. If it is flopping around, chances are the tensior is not installed correctly. Of course don't check the slack and turn the engine simultaneously, but I think you know that.