PalmettoZ

It's a highly modified P51 mustang actually. Made into a pylon racer. Those counter rotating props are very cool. Talk about a high dollar airplane, this is one for sure. Never been to a pylon race but have always wanted to go.

That looks awesome, love the color with the wheels. The wet sand and buff will really make it pop. Great job.

I recently purchased a balance bar set up for my '75 Z that I bought from Beta-Motorsports. Just wanted to let everyone know of the high quality hardware that John Coffey provided in the kit and how well it all went together. It all fit perfectly. I removed the brake booster and stock master cylinder and installed Tilton Master Cylinders (7/8 rear and 3/4 front) along with his set-up and the Stage IV brakes from Silver Mine front and rear. I will be tweaking it this weekend with the goal of not using a brake bias valve. Also for the rear brakes from Silver Mine the parking brake function works great. I was impressed. Thanks for both vendors for some quality products. Photos are available for anyone interested in my link on page 3.

Hey Pantera 74- I understand your frustration when you get treated like crap when your new at posting. Alot of competent people here, but alot of arrogance as well. I found this link to be helpful with mine: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/

I have some extra linkage pieces (aluminum arms that fit on the main bar)that I had made on a water jet cutter last year for my Mikuni carbs. Is this what your looking for? I can provide pics if need be. Todd Walrich at Wolf Creek racing has additional linkage parts as well for Mikuni that you might could use for Webers.

Hey Larry- I checked out your Pic's on your link and the body work and engine conversion look fantastic. Great job. I'm digging the color on the car alot, and had thought about metallic orange for mine when I started painting it. I just bought a set of 17" wheels from MSA (Konig Imagine Opal 17x7 Wheels) and will try to get some 245/45's or 50's without clearance issues. I also have Tokico springs and struts, so I don't think it will be an issue.

Hey- Has anyone seen these seats or know of someone who has used them in a Z before? They are priced well and I am in the process of trying to get some demensions on the seat brackets now. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRIDE-VIOS-LOW-MAX-RACING-BUCKET-SEAT-FRP-BLACK-

Hey- I found your question interesting, since I thought about mixing in a gallon in my tank once I start to run my high compression engine here in the next few months. I think that the SAE hose that you buy here in the local auto parts store in not tolerable to adding Tolulene, and would get brittle and crack over time. And of course this would vary with the procentage of mixture of Tolulene to Benzine. Why not just use teflon braided hose to be sure with AN fittings, just to be sure. More expensive but no worries.

Hey Challanger- I had these for sale a few months ago and never sold them. If you search "injectors for sale" you will find them. They are really nice and I got them for my 3.1L motor but ended up with Mikuni Carbs instead. I can let them go for 100.00 for the set. But I don't have access to them right now until the first week in August, since I am out of the states at the moment. But if you are interested let me know. They flow at 3.8 bar max (60psi) but normally at 45psi. Original ad: I am selling a set of 6 new Bosch injectors part number 0280158156 with a flow rate of 352.9cc's a minute at 100% duty cycle. These are new late model style injectors that use an orifice plate instead of the older pintle valve. This give a much better atomization of the spray of fuel. They also operate at a slightly higher pressure of 3.8 bar ( approx 60 psi ). They also use the newer style connector. Seal ring diameters are 14.2mm for both top and bottom. Length is 44mm long. FORD part number is 8556V. I originally got these for my 3.1L build but recently ran across a great deal on some Mikuni carbs so have opted to use those instead. Asking $200.00. I have them listed on E-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220367515211

Hey- I can't see the photos since they are blocked here at work, but if you are missing a pintle cap it will affect the spray pattern of the injector. As far as the different colors go, that won't matter if the Bosch part numbers are the same. The different colors are done to automotive customer specifications and can use the same injector or a different one. What is key is the part number being the same.

You should be able to use the AN fittings if they are the correct metric thread together with the copper seal rings. The rings are what create the seal and not the threads themselves, so don't bother with pipe tape on the threads. By the way, the Bosch part number should be something like 044 xxx xxx, not just the 044 number. But the pump in the photos are the typical electric fuel pump that has been around since the late 70's.

I would take it somewhere else right away, otherwise it will just drag on and on. Find someone who is hungry and will start right away. Sounds like he is not really interested in it if has been 6 weeks.

Hey- Summit racing sells mandrel bent pipes in different diameters and lengths. They also have it in stainless (not cheap though) as well as mild steel. They also have those new style clamps that you can use instead of welding that work really well to join them together.

Hey Blueking- One way you could check to seee if your camshaft timing is correct is to do a compression check on each cylinder. If it is way down then perhaps the timing is off. Did you check ignition timing? How about your air flow meter and hoses, make sure you don't have any vacume leaks. Make sure you are adjusting your valve lash with the cam lobe in the correct position. I would double check for the basics to be correct first, that cam is fairly mild. Although this is not to undermine what Braap and RTz said, they are right that the ECU is primitive.

Hey Blakt out- What size are those tires on your wheel there ? I am looking for tires for my Konig Opal 17x7" wheels and those look like they fit perfectly. I have stock struts with Tokico springs and shocks though, not the coilovers like yours. Thanks-

Hey- Do you have a baseline in which to start with on your ECU? I would assume so. Your injection angle I believe is the angle between firing pulses based on a 360 degree circle. For example hypothetically a 25 millisecond pulse could "pulse" at a 10 degree injection angle meaning it would fire 36 times for one engine revolution. Since every engine flows differently you would need to start with a baseline and a dyno and O2 sensor for feedback and keep doing runs to fine tune it. Hope this helps-

Hey Tony D- Didn't think about that one, good idea though. At this point I have been doing the work myself, and just thought I might finish up with a little more lightening. I think it is overkill at this point and will just go ahead and get it together and running. Thanks-

Hey 1fastZ- They are stock 89mm flat top ITM pistons with large valve reliefs that I cut into them on a mill. I know they are fairly heavy but I didn't have access to a CNC mill to do the lightening on each one. My crank was balanced after it was lightened, and I don't plan on taking the motor over 7500 RPM. Your motor does sound sweet, thats for sure.

Hey Woldson- Yep, got a Centerforce aluminum flywheel already. Good point on shedding weight.

In my 3.1L motor that I am building with a V07 crank, I had it lightened by turning down the counterweights (knife-edged) and would like to take it one step further with milling holes in the rod journals. Just curious if anyone here has done this and if so what diameter hole they milled (or drilled). It appears to be possible to do but would require repluging the oil galley hole inside the newly drilled lightening hole. Seems like this could remove quite a bit of material off of the crank.

Hey- When I lived in Germany back in the early 90's, this was already a very normal thing. There were certain areas that had cameras set up on the Autobahn (yes there are areas on the Autobahn that have speed limits) and a camera would photograph a photo of your plate as you zipped by going too fast. They would mail you a copy with a fine and you were required to pay it. Great idea and very effective at catching speeders. If you lived in the area though, you knew where the cameras were and usually remembered to slow down.

I want one, just can't justify paying that much for it. They are works of art though, aircraft quality TIG welds are beautiful.

Why do you say you cannot give negative feedback anymore ? I have left feedback recently and there is clearly a negative choice there (although I have not used it). It does say you need to wait 7 days though to resolve any issues. The feedback is one of the best parts about E bay and make it what it is, I don't think they would do away with it.

Hey Josh- I stripped my whole car down and it is a pain in the ass, no doubt. My advice is to make sure you are working outside and with a fan blowing the dust away from you. This helps alot in keeping down the stress. also rough up the paint prior to putting on the stripper makes a difference. Let the stripper do its thing by sitting for awhile before you try to get it off. If you use a small sharp putty knife ( 2" wide max ) you can usually scrape right down to bare metal.

Hey Tony- You are flying in from Qatar? I will be heading there in the middle of April for 4 months or so for the Air Force reserves. Al Eudid air base.