PalmettoZ

Hey- Try to sell it as a complete car. What you have done is so specific to your car, I think you would fare better to sell it as a whole unit. Be sure to include links to your website on your add. I would suggest E bay for sure, with lots of info and as many photos as possible. Your car is very cool and extreme, a real car lovers dream that I am sure most all of us would love to own.

Thanks RE- I am sure that the Datsun cam lobes has hardened surfaces, I don't know to what Rockwell hardness that it is though. I would not think that they are cast iron as well, but probably steel with a high carbon content so that they can be heat treated and hardened. Of course the 2 hardened metals need to be close in hardness in order not to wear prematurely. Has anyone been down this road before ? Thanks-

Thanks- By the way, did the photos go thru ? I cannot tell since I can't view them at work due to the firewall. What kind of roller rockers did you use ? I would think that a regular cam would work, although I have seen the profiles on roller cams before and noticed that the are alot rounder.

I recently replaced the cylinder head on my friends 98 Ford Ranger truck and discovered how close the ford roller rocker was to a L6 Z rocker. It started me thinking that maybe this one could be modified or possibly making some on a CNC mill. It could really free up some horsepower with valve train friction reduction. What do you guys think?

I looked at your photos at Picasa, man what a ton of work. It looks like you are doing a great job though, obviously you have been down this road before. I really like the idea of the rotisserie made out of the 2 engine stands, thats a great idea. Keep up the good work-

That is very cool. love the flat black paint and side vents. Great job-

Hey Derek- I had Weber carbs on my Cobra and I used tea strainers as filters. They are made of stainless steel, were the perfect diameter, and had a very fine mesh. I just snipped off the handle and made some rubber gaskets out 26" mountain bike tire tube about 1/2 wide. These slipped around the rim of the horn and the top of the rim of the strainer. Not sure of the diameter of your horns, but you could probably find some that are close. They looked great when finished.

Hey- Try EASY OFF oven cleaner. Works great. Use a tooth brush if you need to on stubborn spots, rinse with water. I just cleaned mine with it and a green scotchbrite pad.

Hey Tony- Bosch has had a manufacturing plant in Charleston since 1975 producing mainly EV injectors, ABS components and Diesel injectors and pumps. The Common Rail technology is Bosch technology though, I am not sure who Diesel Technologies is. Where were they located ? Scott

The 1600 bar is for the Bosch Common Rail diesel systems first generation. 3rd generation is now running 1800 bar ! As far as leaks go, the rail has a pressure sensor on it, and the second there is a low pressure sensed it stops the pump pressure. But these high pressures are diesel only. The direct injection gas is running around 300 bar and has a mechanical pump on top of the engines with the rail right on top of the injectors:

Hey Matt- For heavy duty Common Rail diesel injectors it is 12 volts at the magnet valve. These injectors are running 1600 bar with as you said multiple injection points. The magnet valve can open and close fairly rapidly due to somewhat of a balance with the high pressure and low pressure in the injector. The high pressure is only at a very small point at the needle. Atomization on these injectors is incredible, you can barely see the holes at the nozzle they are so small. The Piezo injectors use a long crystal which grows slightly when energized to open and close the valve at an even faster rate. As far a trying to use a diesel head on a gas engine goes, the compression ratio is around 22:1 on them with little to no combustion chamber in the head. I don't think it would be possible to use this head for a gasoline set-up.

Here is a photo of the Bosch pressure regulator and one of the injector itself. I would suggest to use the current manifold injector position and set this up as a regular style injector. The better atomization of the injector and the deeper nozzle depth would create much more power than a standard set-up. It appears to be a magnet valve style injector which could be controlled by a mega-squirt style of computer.

Hey Derek- I work for a company that will start producing the direct injection injectors at my plant beginning of 2009. They run at 1500 psi, and I would assume that they have an external pump that will be driven by the engine. It really bumps up the power since it atomizes the fuel much better as well as controlling the injection more effeciently. I think that VW has a 1.8 liter now with this out that produces a ton of power for the displacement. The idea is not new ( WWII aircraft had this mechanically ) but to control it electronically is much more effecient. I can try to find some photos of the pump and injector set up and post it for you-

Hey Ed- I had Webers (4x2 IDF's) on my 302 Ford on a Cobra replica about 10 years ago. Same carb as DCOE's but in a vertical position. I too was trying to get the jetting dialed in and came up with an idea that worked great. Since I had extra jets I was able to experiment with them. I bought a set of very fine drill bits that were a half mm difference in size in the range that I needed. Then I took the main jets and heated them with a soldering gun and filled the holes with solder. Then I drilled the holes with a dremel at slow speed starting with a half mm smaller and trying them out. This took about 4 tries at gradually different diameters until I got the correct size that I needed. Then I ordered this size and it worked perfectly. I also went down a size in the idle jets doing this same process. If you have some extra jets you might want to give it a try. It will get you very close to the size you need.

Hey Josh- There is a great thread going on at the moment on the "Nissan L6 motor" forum about a guy building a 3.1L motor. Lots of good info there to educate yourself with. I am also building one so I have been checking out this website for months now getting good info on everything. Good luck- Scott

Hey- A rifle drilled (more commonly know as "gun drilling") hole is one in which a drill bit that has holes in the flutes of the bits is used. During the drilling process cutting oil is fed into the bit under high pressure which keeps the bit straight and allows for a very long bit to be used. Runout from this process is minimal and makes for a very accurate hole as well. Scott

Thanks Jon- I know its not too agressive a cam, there just doesn't seem to be much that I have found between 280 duration and 300. I am tempted to go the route of the higher duration cam but know the port sizes won't justify it. I also have an N42 head that I could use as well, but I prefer to use the current one since I already have some of the machine shop work done already on it. The main reason I thought about the peanut shape is that I thought this increased power due to the reduction in the quench area. Since I have not purchased the pistons yet I could opt for the dished ones to lower compression with the peanut shape. What lift and duration cam would you suggest ? Compression ratio will be high ( I assume around 10 or 11:1 ) using flat top pistons and a 1 mm gasket. I think with the .6 mm positive deck height I will need to turn down the pistons about half a mm or so. At what lift cam will I need to check the valve seals ? I thought I would be safe up to about .510 or so. Of course I will be doing a check with the cam installed and rotated thru with the head off of the block. Thanks- Scott

Hello- New to the website but have been reading info for about 6 months. I am in the process of building a stroker motor with the V07 crank, 133mm rods and 89mm pistons into a N42 block. I have had the crank weights turned down (knife edged) to reduce weight. Lightweight flywheel and throttle body injection with stand alone megasquirt. I will be using a N47 head that has stainless undercut valves in them with bronze guides. Also the combustion area has been relieved by the valves, along with the standard bowl cleanup. Only port matching to the manifold at this point. Camshaft is still up in the air at the moment, but probably around 280 duration and .460" to .480" lift. I would like to go higher on the duration but not sure of the outcome. I am considering having the combustion chamber welded to create the peanut shape chambers in the head, and wanted to know how much of an advantage this would give me in terms of horsepower. Is it worth it for this mod ? Car will be street driven, but not a daily driver. I am looking for smiles per gallon not miles per gallon. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks-

Hello Braap- The suede with stiching looks great. Where could I get this done ? Thanks- Scott

I have a 2.5" exhaust with a magnaflow muffler on it on my 75 280Z if you would like to hear it run. I just bought a new header and exhaust system off of E bay so if you want you can have all the old exhaust except for the new muffler. You can get the same stainless steel muffler that I got from Pepboy's. Has a great tone to it. Scott

Hey Derek- Sorry I missed it, I have been bouncing back and forth reading this at work and didn't see where you had already said that. What you are doing looks awesome, I have never seen casting before and now have a clear picture of the process. You are investing a ton of time and work into this. Great Job- Scott

Hey Derek- Could you not make a quick fixture to hold the butterfly at the angle you need ( I assume just a couple of degrees ) and then turn this down on a lathe to the correct diameter ? This would give you the relief on the sides as required. I can try to draw something up and show you what I am thinking about.