cygnusx1

So true. ...and musicians too. It makes you wonder.

Another terrible setback for the world of Rally. My condolences to the McRae family. He was truly an inspiration and one of the best drivers in the world.

Birds surf thermals and slope lift but I have never seen a bird doing 300mph or even half that using this technique.

I suppose that would apply to water circulated home heating systems and boilers as well?

I just hope the darn birds don't learn how to do this!

I had these links at the bottom of my other RC post but I found this so amazing that I had to start a new thread. Talk about Aerodynamics....or whatever you call it...Energy from wind. It's called "Dynamic Soaring". It appeals greatly to my engineering curiosity. Videos: (Not sped up film!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu11mW932aM http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658640 Explanation Here: http://www.geocities.com/soaringbythebay/dsoar.htm

You need to clearly ID your goals for the car, details of the car, and the budget you are working with. There are no limits, within reason, to what will fit in the Z engine bay. Welcome to the club of endless possibility!

wrxand280z....that's exactly what I have too. Raising fuel pressure to a carb would be a bad idea. You might flood or spill the fuel out of the carb and fire, fire, fire. Thanks for the compliment Phil

On my original L28 N/A motor, I thought I was losing oil pressure as the motor passed through about 85K miles. The gauge was really sluggish and always read low. It turned out that it was the sender. I screwed a regular "boiler" gauge into the block in place of the sender and the oil pressure was totally normal. The OE sender was funky.

lifegrddude, I hope we answered your question. I think we did even though we had some fun at the subject's expense. The inside joke is that the crossflow head for the L series motors is somewhat of a flying pig, or unicorn..or a golden wing nut. It has existed, it was EXTREMELY expensive, and had a small "benefit to dollar" ratio. VERY rare, VERY expensive, VERY interesting, but not worth the walk to the top of Everest.

OMG! I just learned about "Dynamic Soaring". Watch a glider exceed 300mph with NO engine. It's due to a wind phenomenon. It is amazing. Take a look at this video. It’s real, not “sped-up”. The plane has no engine. It’s a glider. 300mph. Videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu11mW932aM&mode=related&search= http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658640 Explanation Here: http://www.geocities.com/soaringbythebay/dsoar.htm

I just put in the $30 MSA gasket to replace my blown factory original one. The MSA one has slightly stouter fire rings than the factory one did. Not really knowing what brand the MSA one is, it looks fine, all the holes line up with the original one, and it's holding 10-15psi of boost.

Wrinkle paint in a spray can from Eastwood after cleaning with a pre-paint cleaner. Make sure everything is over 75 degrees F. Spray one coat pretty heavy. Wait 3 minutes. Spray a second coat heavy. Place in the hot sun and rotate every few minutes or bake in an oven at 150 deg F for about an hour. I used a small oven for the small stuff and the kitchen oven for the pipes. Open your windows though!

ummm...O.S. Giken?... You wouldn't club a baby seal would ya?

I was thinking about a sea-plane but I didn't feel confident enough in my skills yet to land a few hundred bucks into a lake. I chose the glider because they just seem so graceful and forgiving...and cheap. Nice photos. There are alot of kits on ebay that will get you flying for under $150 with everything including a radio. I hear they are decent kits if you spend some time reinforcing them. On the flip side of cheap and quiet are the "rock and roll" versions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfmVtUA3414&mode=related&search

Nope, the other RC.

I did it twice within the past three weeks. I leave the intake manifold shield on there. Some shields might be in the way, mine isn't. It takes about 1/2 hour to remove the intake and exhaust manifold once you have done it a few times. Of course I know all my bolts are in good shape so I'm not fighting anything. Those bolts that BRAAP circled are pretty easy to get to even though you cant see them. Use a 12mm long socket with three or four extensions, put a universal joint at the socket. Wrap the whole setup with tape to keep the u-joint rigid, and keep the stack from falling apart when you pull it back out. Loosen the 12mm bolts then remove the 14mm upper bolts and lift out the intake manifold. The rest is easy.

Anyone on here fly RC? I built a foam glider with ailerons as my first plane a few years ago. I basically learned how to fly it 1 minute at a time as it's tough to catch thermals with a hand toss on a flat field where I live. I crashed it a few times but nothing major and then I stripped a servo for the rudder so I hung the plane up for a few years. I recently got the urge to fly again so I decided to stick with gliders but I wanted to take advantage of the new electric motor technology. I bought a 2 meter, 4 channel, Elapor Foam glider with all the servos included, and a folding propeller electric motor. I can just re-use my programmable four channel radio. I can't wait to build it. It's a ARF (almost ready to fly) so it should be ready pretty soon. I have been practice flying on the free RC flight simulator: http://n.ethz.ch/student/mmoeller/fms/index_e.html I can pretty much fly and land anything in the simulator so I am hoping to have good luck with my new plane, Multiplex Easy Glider Electric. I figure even with only ten minutes of battery time, I can at least double or tripple the flying time because of the glide factor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuE-dUr0_xQ Here is a cool onboard camera shot!

I can change the effect of the IAT by reducing it's effect to zero and see if it makes a difference on hot starts. As far as the regulator location and the length of the vacuum/boost reference; my MSII ECU uses a vacuum hose that is about four feet long to determine MAP and it responds INSTANTLY to throttle changes on the datalogs. Unless the fuel regulator requires a so much more of air volume to move the internal diaphram, and it might, it should react as quickly with only about 3 feet of hose. Experimentation might be worth it because my AFR's do move around a bit during quick MAP changes. Although I was able to mostly "unspike" the lean with AE (acceleration enrichments). Interesting thread you had anyhow.

Thanks for bringing up the thread. It's been working fine for months so the semi-dead-head setup of the fuel rail works. The ONLY drawback is that it takes about a minute for the AFR's to get back to normal after a hot soak start. All of the hot fuel has to leave through the injectors instead of a return line. It's not a huge deal and it looks cleaner. Besides, I usually pop the hood when I park it hot anyhow. The fuel filter is on the stock supply hard line. The regulator is on the stock return hard line.

OMFG!!! I am sooo glad to hear that nobody was lost in this crash. After seeing the photos, I got the chills knowing that there were kids in there. Condolences and get well soon to everyone.

Wow alot of banter on bolt length. It's not rocket science. Use the right bolt, if it's too long, cut it or grind them to the right size.

There are different outside diameters between the turbo and non turbo pulleys but they do fit. You may need to change the belt lengths and possibly relocate the timing marker.

That's what my 76 280Z looked like when I bought it in 1989. Same miles too. I thought the first 280Z was 76. I guess it was built in 75.

I use the similar kit from MSA. I use them on the street and I was able to keep my outside edge on the fronts from wearing prematurely. I think they add enough negative for spirited street use on a lowered car. My tire temps are usually slightly warmer towards the inside after a hard run on country roads. I measured -1.5 and -1.3 on my front camber after maxing these bushings out. I used a level floor, a level on the rim edges, and trig. to calculate the camber angles. My car is also lowered by 1" from stock.