cygnusx1

MLV is very good at tuning and will sort out the VE maps in about two to three iterations if you give it a good AFR map. Spark timing...lots of spark timing maps are available on here in the EMS threads but they differ from engine to engine. I like to have full advance (35deg) by 3000 rpms and pull out about 1.5 - 2 degrees for every psi or so. I idle at 23-25deg and pull it really low in the starter cranking range. L28ET stock long block. 42# injectors.

My Z always gathers alot of people at our weekly 1000+ car show. Most hot rodders and muscle car people are cool and respect the little old Datsun Z. Even though it's just an L28ET they are interested. The most popular comments are: 1) Those really were pretty cars...and still are. 2) My (insert relative here) had one of these and they were fast. 3) Is that a 240 260 or 280? 4) Where is the turbo charger?...puzzled as they hunch over the engine trying to find it, usually on the wrong side.

I also have MS, no working fuel light, the whoosh of the BOV, and working AC!!! My clock is dead though...it's the older type clock that ran out of time long ago. Watching you drive, I know how you feel. It does sound and look great. I love the new seats too. Nice work.

I am also interested in using MS to do this please follow up with any info you get. Thanks.

Matt I will look into the tach noise. Maybe I will add another metal brade over the wires involved. I didn't even notice the noise. I will play some more with the AE settings to observe how the datalogs react to more and less. I can also try blending in some equivalent TPS signal as you said. TPS is something I haven't really spent much time with yet. Thanks your help is much appreciated! -Dave

The springs are not really critical. The retention of oil inside the lifter body is critical. The oil trapped inside the lifter acts as a solid lifter. When the oil bleeds out, the lifter crunches. The spring is there just to keep them taught even with no oil pressure when the engine is off.

How much does it cost to rent a compressor for a day or two? I know at least three friends that have compressors that they would be willing to lend to me for a day or two locally. The point is, that all the time spent sanding and buffing a roller job could be used to mow lawns to earn enough money to buy/rent decent painting equipment. (mow lawns was just a figure of speech). To each their own, OTOH. The corvair does look nice in the photos.

A cheap spray gun, decent paint, and buffing will do the same thing with much less rubbing work.

MSII, v2.687, 3bar sensor, WB O2, GM IAT, Nissan CHT It runs pretty steady AFR's until I wave the throttle around a bit. There are a few very lean spikes in the datalogs that could be misfires? I couldn't really duplicate the lean on throttle climb very clearly but if you look closely you will see alot of 14:1's during some throttle roll on's. If you have time to take a look and comment it would be appreciated. The factory fuel pressure regulator is connected to a 3 foot vacuum line and may be lagging. The fuel rail is dead headed. Return Line down through the regulator. Fuel supply up the filter and to the rail. Thanks, Dave datalog.zip v2_687 msq.zip

I cut out a rectangular piece of stainless sheet metal. I riveted on a simple bracket and bolted it to one of the wastegate housing bolts. I lined the inside of the shield with foil backed fiberglass using Super7 spray glue. It blocks alot of heat and looks clean. Paint and red hot cast iron dont mix.

The EVO MR came with the vortec's from the factory. The roof vane would probably be bling factor. Although stranger things have worked. http://autos.yahoo.com/mitsubishi_lancer_evolution_mr_edition-pictures/

Matt, I run 100% MAP and it does this. I will datalog it tonight and post both the current msq and log file. Thanks.

Got a spare turbo here is what you can do... http://www.rcdon.com/html/gr-1_turbojet_engine_video.html

I have the car running really well. The timing and the mixtures are all in the safe zone and it has no burps or surges anywhere in the driving range. I have one issue and I don't quite understand it. I will try to datalog it this weekend but for now I will explain. I have the AE set as close to perfect as I can get. It's really pretty good. The problem is only when I SLOWLY roll the throttle on at a STEADY rate. Example would be going from off throttle to 1/2 throttle in about 4 or 5 seconds. A really slow throttle roll on, as in getting back on the gas while approaching and rounding an apex. When I first tip-in the pedal, the AE gives me a nice AFR but after that wears off, the mixture leans out to 14-15 during the steady roll motion of the pedal. The mixture settles back to normal when I stop the pedal movement. This happens at all RPM's and loads. A steady pedal motion, produces little or no "Kpa/sec" so the AE goes away for the duration of the pedal movement. I use 100% MAP blend on the AE and it works well. Are there any functions for steady state pedal movement enrichment? What would cause this leaning out? Could it be lag factor in the MAP reading set too low? Thanks, Dave

Nope, I have been so busy with the family. I also had to change my head gasket which ate up some of my free time. I still plan on doing something for a spoiler and a front splitter out of aluminum this winter when the car is on jack stands. I will certainly post photos when I get to it.

I am getting twin Gatlin guns on my Z. Front and rear.

I've got a mildly tuned 02 WRX. These cars are simply a blast and pretty easy to drive fast. Things on them tend to get loose and rattle over the years but if you keep up the maintenence, they last a long time. Too bad you probably wont experience snow driving in it. With a good set of snow tires and about 10" of snow you are in an amusement park! My friend just sold his STI with 400awhp for $29K with 18K miles on it. I drove it before he sold it. The sweet boxer sounds and g-forces are phenominal. Good luck and keep it shiny side up.

You didn'miss much. Only three of us showed up and only two Z's and then it began to rain. At least I got to try the tires in the rain and play with my brake proportioning valve to find a good rain setting on the way home.

Got a new wing on my car. The Z is charging the glider batteries through the lighter. Actually, the roof of the Z is perfect for finding the Center of Gravity (CG) of the plane. Wherever the fuselage touches the roof is right where the CG is.

I am using Ford Lightning (bosch 42#) injectors. With the injectors pushed all the way into the mainfold, and the fuel rail pushed all the way down on the injectors, the bottom of the rail is flush with the back corner of the thermostat housing. I could not push the rail any further down than it is now. I can take a detail photo of the contact point for you later today so you can see what I mean. It fit's but it's really close. -Dave Pretty close, but just enough room!

Juan, she polished up nice. Sealed nice and tight to all the orings too. No probs with the tail at all except it comes really close to the thermostat housing. If you could shorten one or both ends of it by 1/4" or 3/16" it would eliminate the interference. Of course it may depend on the length of the injectors. Longer injectors would raise the rail up off the therm. housing.

11am is fine for me. Cooler air = more power. I'm bringing a sandwich to enjoy in the park. I might bring my RC car or my RC plane to play with.

Did they not give you an opportunity to review before publishing?

Cell phones will not work in the park...AFAIK. It's a short drive to a location where a cell will work if you need to make outgoing calls. I will try to make it on Saturday. Not sure when, or how long I can stay but I will try my best to make it.