cygnusx1

I was a packaging and automation machine designer and project engineer for 10 years. Now I design the packaging itself. AutoCAD and Solidworks are my tools.

Whats with the rear shock absorbers? The photo quality is VERY poor as well. I think the rust you see is a lift, not the frame rails.

This is not an answer to your question but what I use is a piece of straight steel, a magnetic level, and a measuring scale. Hold the steel against the rim edges, then pull the top away from the rim until the level shows, level. Measure the gap between the steel bar and the rim. Calculated the angle using trig. (Autocad in my case). It is cheap, quick, and accurate.

Carbon build up happens so slowly that the butterfly would wipe it away faster than it could accumulate. However, the areas that are not wiped by the throttle plate would thicken with carbon and eventually cause a poor idle and stalling. I can't imagine it would ever cause throttle plate sticking because the throttle plate constantly wipes its own path. Ice however, can build up really quickly if cruising down the highway at a steady throttle angle. This could cause a big surprise when it was time to slow down and the butterly was frozen in place. Planes have carb heat for ice prevention.

I'm just happy I found something to gauge my car against. There aren't any local tracks and there isn't alot of "street racing" up here in the woods. Not that I condone street racing. But when you are at a light and you have a challenger, and you built your own car...enough said. 145HP at his crank SHOULD put him in the 10's with all the extra weight. However as 24 oz accurately pointed out, any bike with a passenger can't use full power in the lower gears because the front lifts. My 1st and 2nd were even with him and when I shifted into third, I was pulling away. Once I pulled on him, I backed off and let him go.

The investors/speculators raped us and left. They are now in hiding counting their money. They will be back after Thangsgiving. Buy lots of gas now.

Lets not get into this here. There is no right answer.

..a long way from my old Peugot 10-speed bike. http://forums.streetfire.net/showthread.php?t=9277

Yeah but he said light weight OR big cubes. Why not light weight AND big cubes? It can be done you know? Modern turbos and systems ARE reliable. Let's not get into that here because that wasn't a question anyhow. I brought it up because it's not the size of the motor, it's the amount of air it can move that makes power. Yes, tuning a single carb is simple and a BIG motor with a single carb is a great solution AND it can be light too. I think the V8 guys (what I think you mean by "Cubic Inch Motors") and the I6/I4/V6 or Turbo (what I think you mean by "Light") guys think the same, yet they dont know it. The only difference is that the N/A V8 guy has to put in a bigger motor to get more cubes. The Turbo guys can add boost to get more cubes. They can both be light and both be heavy. This is what I dream about.... AND THIS *!!CENSORED!!*

I never liked turbos either until I bought my WRX. Then I just had to add one to my Z. However, I have never owned a V8. It all depends on what you do with the car and what you are used to. Turbo's definitely have a different "gas pedal" vs "butt dyno" feel than big cubes.

Yeah I think I am going to try to clean them either this week or next weekend. I found some instructional document about cleaning them. They suggested kerosene. I guess we will see how lazy I am if I am real lazy, I will dump in Risolene. If I get motivated to take the puppy apart, I will remove them and soak them in Kerosene. If those dont fix it...I will park the Z and start planning the monster build for next year. I drove it today and it didn't tick at all. I guess it depends on the temp of the oil or how the dirt floats around in the lifters.

Let me add this..the LIGHTEST way to get more cubic inches is to turbocharge. This applies to ANY motor. A 2.8 liter at 14psi becomes about a 5.6 liter. adding about 70lbs A 350ci motor at 14psi becomes roughly 700ci adding about 100lbs IMHO, paradise is a well built aluminum block V8 with Twin Intercooled Turbos!

Hey, Silicone Boy --->

Yes sometimes, about 1 out of 10 times it will tick for about 3 seconds when the car starts cold. It always goes away. Today, it came back when the car was fully warmed up and idling. After the car cooled for a few hours, I started it up again and no ticking. I will try the risolene....but I might take the lifters out to clean them over the winter if it lasts til then. Do the Hydraulic lifters actually come apart for cleaning?

Today, from a standstill, I out accelerated an FJR1300 from 0-75mph. I let off at 75mph for sanity and his safety. The FJR was, in all fairness, loaded with an average sized man, a girl, and saddle bags. I am guessing he weighed in about 875 pounds with 145 BHP. Yes, he was racing me. He almost lifted his front wheel on the launch, and he was surprised. hehehe

Yes, and the hatch has a bump in it at the top of its glass as well. I am thinking at this point that there is NO clean air flowing on the roof, hatch, and side window, surfaces of an S30. There are just too many "speed bumps" for the airstream such as, window trim, rain rails, wipers, mirrors..... Experiments with duct tape over the trim, and top and side streamers, would be truly revealing.

I think Nissan water "heated" the throttle body to keep it from freezing open/closed in the winter. Mine is no longer "watered".

UPDATE: PICTURE OF LIFTER A FEW POSTS DOWN.... Once the engine is fully warmed up, the oil pressure at idle is showing about 15psi at idle. It runs about 30-45psi when driving around. Today when I got home and idled up the driveway I heard tick tick tick very loud from the valve cover. As soon as I revved a little it went away. At idle, the tick comes and goes with the engine hot. I'm 99% sure its the Hydraulic Lifter collapsing at idle. I read all about the lifter rebuild and the conversion the solid lifter conversion. BUT, right now, I am not wanting to pull the motor or do heavy work on the car. Can I postpone the "fix" until I am ready to build a new monster motor next season? Will running heavier oil help? Now it only ticks at idle intermittently with hot 10W30 Synthetic. Should switching to 20W50 help get me through? I don't use the car much at all. (Ploxlamus, it didnt work for you did it? What did you end up doing?) If I do end up using TIMESERT inserts and convert to solid lifters from my L28, do I need a different cam, rockers, or lash pads?

Extremely Nice! Love the custom bodywork that enhances without detracting!

This is all very interesting. I think that some great points were made and the focus here should be, as some already stated, on keeping the airflow attached to the bodywork for a longer distance along the rear. I think we can learn more about the Z by studying golfballs than we can learn from studying wings. Read this, and picture the rear half of the Z to be like the rear half of a golfball. We want the attached airflow to creep further down the hatch area to reduce the "shadow" and to introduce more clean air to the rear wing. "Tripping the boundry layer" is what we need to do, read this: http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/aerodynamics/q0215.shtml

Here are some more nuts for the squirrels. http://64.225.76.178/catalog/Default.htm

You are bringing back sooo many memories of when I did my turbo swap a few years ago. The four things that bit me in the ass are: 1)AFM not adjusted right. Hours of tweaking (might have been problem 2) 2)Constantly loosening/corroding connectors causing strange driveability. 3)Stock ZX EFI fuel pump controller cant handle Walbro Pump current. 4)Rubber intake pipe before the turbo was collapsing from the turbo suction causing 0 boost and 0 power under heavy acceleration. (I put the metal spring back into the rubber boot to keep it open). Nice Job AE

L28ET is the bottom of the barrel budget swap. However, it is barely considered a HybridZ because it is sooo easy. Yes, it will get expensive also if you get greedy with your RWHP, and who won't eventually, but up front it is cheap.

What zeiss said. Look at it this way. The top end MAKES the power, the lower end has to TAKE the power. Since a solid, stock, lower end can TAKE 300-350 rwhp. Concentrate on MAKING the power with top end stuff.

Receipts? We don't need no stinkin' receipts!! The only papers that matter are the dyno sheet and 1/4mile sheets. Everything else is kindling, or landfill.