cygnusx1

Statement? Â You did notice this in the subject>?

Ah,I see, the bind is at the bottom! Makes sense.

Nice. Â Cheap and easy fix. Â Â BTW, still try to set your fuel levels by measuring the depth of it from the top of the carb body. Â If you look down into the main jet port, you can see the spillway to the left. Â Fuel should be 2mm below that hole.

With those tires and the type of racing it looks like you'll be doing, the mis-alignment problem is not a deal breaker IMHO.  You aren't going for a lot of rear suspension travel I am guessing.  The stock rubber strut tops have a bit of slop in them and the rubber does give a little to angular deflection. Jon, what if you shim the factory strut insulator between the body to match the new strut angle?

I'm not familiar with the HPV1. Time to sell and upgrade. Welcome to the sickness!

Limit boost to about 14, set inital to about 18 and max around 25. You are giving up major power. You could lock it at 25.

Stock long block? Run factory spec initial timing for your engine. The advance curve is up to you. I keep max around 36 with around 42+ at light cruise. Pull timing out during boost, 1 or 2 per psi.

Wow, I hope you ran away from his house because you STOLE IT!! Â

I wouldn't say the clunk is normal...I am saying that I tried for many years with somewhat limited budgets to get rid of it in my 280Z and I still have it enough to be annoying sometimes. Â My 240Z has ZERO clunk...go figure. Â Keep looking for it. Â 99% of the time it's a bad mount. Â Even the car magazines complained about drivetrain clunking back in the 70's when they tested the Z's.

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=864 There.

There is an LCA that allows some fore and aft positioning of the rear wheel. Â I can't remember who makes them.

 I was looking at the pics of the car at the blog.  Looks cool in olive drab...that's what I'm calling it...the tail muffler from MSA??  Dynaflow?  Can be rotated 180 degrees from where you have it so that the "lobe" of the muffler (in cam talk) fits up into the rear quarter.  That way you barely even see the muffler.  I didn't think it would fit but, I did it with mine, and it fits perfectly with the tailpipe dead center in the cutout. No rubbing!  I can get my hand all the way around the muffler in there! Sort of like this: Sorry for the thread jack and now back to your regularly scheduled Weber talk!

Did you buy these carbs off of ebay a while back where one carb was different? Â I remember a set like that for sale. Â Looked like a nice set. Â I bet it's a fuel level issue. Â Probably a soldered float that weighs in overweight.

Here is an easy test. Â Assuming all your DCOE's are the same model/vintage, measure the fuel level in the two good carbs by letting the bowls fill up. Â Shut off the fuel pump, take out one main jet stack on each of the two good carbs, and stick a small stick, nail, or something to get a reading on the fuel level in those bowls. Â Then do the same for the leaking one. Â All floats are not the same, maybe, just maybe, the leaking one has a heavier set of floats for some reason. You also can switch parts between carbs (floats and jets) to see if you can chase the problem. Â You need to make sure that the floats don't bind anywhere and that the tab pushes on the needle valve ball pretty squarely, as viewed from the side.

The leak will go away when you open the throttle plates because you have exposed the source of the fuel leak to engine vacuum, and it gets sucked into the cylinders instead of running out the stacks.  Are all of the carbs doing this? Try to verify that the fuel level in the bowls is below the spillway for the aux venturies.  The only way for fuel to get out of the bowl is through the jets valves and ports...one of those is leaking unless the body has a crack in it. Â

What processes are required? Quantity?

 The Weber manual says to measure to the floats body, not the seam.  There are very different settings for plastic vs brass floats (DCOE carbs came with both, and I don't see the DCOE Plastic float specs on that sheet). Also when you install the main jet assembly and idle jet assembly, leave the tips of the jets NOT fully pushed in.  Let the action of screwing in the jet assembly seat them.  The BEST method for float adjusting is to measure the fuel level in the main jet tubes with a dipstick or a vernier caliper.  I don't have the recommended levels handy but you can find them on the web.  With that amount of fuel coming out you have either really high fuel level, needle valves that are not seating, excessive fuel pressure, bad jet seats, or cracked bodies.  Return hose is not needed as long as the carbs see 4psi MAX For plastic DCOE floats the settings are 12.5mm closed and 25mm open from the center of the top float face to the carb cover gasket.  Again, double check the FULL fuel level with a dipstick from the fuel surface to the top of the emulsion tube well. Specs escape me right now. Here is something I just found...can anyone confirm this number?  Fuel level should be 25mm from the top of the carb body, or 2mm below the auxiliary venturi spillway.

 Here is another approach.  What is your idle timing?  You can reduce your idle timing to get the RPM's down a little at idle so that you don't have to have your carbs darn near shut at idle.  Timing too far advanced at idle will cause a host of issues with the DCOEsÂ

In my 280Z Turbo, I have changed: diff, trans, clutch, engine, stock diff mount, RT Mount, axles, rear bearings, diff guts, trans mount, motor mounts, suspension, bushings......and have never been able to completely rid the clunk. It has improved but not eliminated. Â My diff lash settings are within factory spec. Â Don't dwell too much on the clunk. Â Just make sure all the bolts are tight and the mounts are good. Â Funny thing is that my newly built N/A 240Z has ZERO clunk! ??? Â I think you could run 15-20 psi depending on engine management and intake charge cooling. Â

Being a Canon DSLR user, and photography/video enthusiast, I found this interesting.  Could be a marketing ploy, but still interesting. "House' season finale filmed withCanon 5D Mark II A Canon 5D Mark II hasbecome the first video-capable DSLR to film a whole episode of a US primetimeseries. Greg Yaitanes, director of FOX broadcasting company's medical dramaseries 'House', used the camera, a selection of Canon's prime lenses and, the24-70mm and 70-200mm lenses to shoot its season finale. Speaking via Twitter,he said that this was to achieve a shallow depth of field and a 'richer look'.He also said he 'feels it’s the future'."

 I fought those Fidanza dowel pins and won.  Here's how.  If you need to relocate them to a different hole and you won't be placing it back in the hole it's stuck into, do this.  Get a hammer and beat them gently side to side, left to right, up and down, all around the clock face.  This will open up the hole drilled in the aluminum and loosen the pins.  You can then yank them out with a vice grip and a screwdriver for leverage.  NOTE AGAIN:  Those holes will now be useless but you can put the dowels back into the correct hole set for your clutch.Â

 I did soak some of the foam in gasoline to test it before I installed them.  It held up fine.  Apparent increase in torque could have been due to a slightly richer mix from the air filters effect on air flow...or a figment of my imagination, or a host of other variables.  If I had a dyno and a WBO2 sensor I would have some scientific data every day...this is just duct-tape, rattlecans, and hammer technology here.

 I ran with the sock off and on and there was a difference only above about 3500 WOT.  I had a set of K&N filter boxes for the triples so I installed those.  They are 4.25" deep so there is plenty of room for the stacks inside.  A someone said in another thread somewhere, it actually feels better with the air boxes over the stacks.  A little more torque is produced.  I think the pressure wave is reflected off the filter box cover and back into the horn--or something like that.

This motor sat on the floor of my non-climate controlled garage, with no spark plugs, no valve cover, wide open. Â Protected only with a few squirts of WD40 in the plug holes and on the cam. Â It sat for 7 years. Â I cleaned it up extenally, poured oil over the cam, cranked it over with no spark to prime the oil pump, and it fired right up and runs very well.

 My fault. Random thoughts clutter my head when I type, and confusion runs down my ribbon cables, to my fingertips, and out to the internet. Â