cygnusx1

As good as the bodywork and paint turned out...I was disappointed when I saw that the colors were off. Â The basecoat turned out too dark and the clear coat made it even darker. Â When I had it in the sun it was too much of a difference to leave, after all that straightening I did. Â I just couldn't leave it. Â So today, I stripped it all back to the original layer of paint, and redid the glaze/sand/prime about five times to get the surface dead nuts. Â It's perfect in primer right now. Â I had a body supply store mix me up some paint that SHOULD match, and I bought one of the Preval cartridge guns. Â Tomorrow, I'll do my final sanding on the primer and shoot the base coat again. Â I hope it's a closer match this time. Â Damn that's a lot of work. Â I have a major respect for you guys that do your own bodywork and paint! Â Wow. Â Â Â Â I also bought a rattle can of 3M Clear from the supply shop. Â He said it should lay down nicely. Â We will see. Â I was happy with the Dupli Color clear so the 3M should be fine too.

N/A motors have the sender directly in the block. Â Turbo motors have a dual outlet fitting that feeds oil to the turbo AND to pressurize sender.

At the peak of my career as a shop floor sweeper (yes that was my favorite job so far - low stress  seems that nobody ever messes with a guy that pushes a good broom), I used to clean oil from shop concrete floors by throwing down some litter, or absorbant, and grinding it into the concrete with a brick or a block of wood.Â

Condos and DIY people, can't coexist.

Use your ears and your hands to feel around for vibration, knock, and movement. Â Grab each part of the drivetrain while someone else rocks the car. Â Your hands will "feel" slop much better than your eyes can see it. Â You ears will help pinpoint the location. Â I agree it does not look excessive but the noise it makes in your video does sound like something is loose. Â Check the two big nuts on the back of the diff.

 The car was painted a single stage urethane back in 87 after a hailstorm. It was stripped to bare metal and the front panels were all replaced. It sat in a garage that was sunlit all these years.  So the paint was oxidized and a little faded in spots.  The repair is a shade darker than the rest of the car but I don't mind.  It's not a trailer queen.  The touch up paint came from http://www.automotivetouchup.com/  It's a base coat clear coat system.  I just bought the base color in a rattle can.  It happens to be a Ford 2H Medium Cabernet from the 87 Mustangs.  For the primer and the clear coat, I used Dupli-color products.  The fillers were 3M. http://www.automotiv.../paint-code.htm Mark, (moritz55) from over at ClassicZcars also gave me lots of pointers.  Check out this cool spray gun he told me about. CO2 powered and reusable.  If I hadn't already had the aerosol cans, I would have used these. http://www.tcpglobal...pot/preval.aspx

It's not mirror straight because I should have used longer sanding blocks. Â It's still way better than a dent. Thanks for the beers! Â I think I'll pop one open with dinner.

 I had nothing to lose by trying to fix my door dent.  I had met a guy at the car show on Sunday, that did his own bodywork with off the shelf stuff, and it looked great.  He gave me a write up on how to do it.  It inspired me to try my hand at it. I hammered out the dent as flat as I could, used body filler, 80grit, body glaze, 220grit, primer, spot glaze, 320grit wet, primer, 320grit, primer, matched rattle can paint, several coats of clear rattle can.  I am going to let it cure for a couple of days and then either wetsand it with 1000 or 1500 and then compound it.  I am very happy with my first venture into dent repair and paint.  The local bodyshop quoted me $1300 to fix the door and a small ding in the rear quarter.  I did the door for about $50.  AFTER HAMMER AFTER FIX

My 3 year old points out the parts on the floor of my garage and ID's them! Â He does get scared when I hit too much boost, but he keeps asking me to "go turbo". Â My wife has learned to trust my driving so she just whimpers a little when I hit warp speeds, mostly reminding me that we have a kid now. Â My son says he wants to build a yellow Z.

repost, but this is how it's done.

I posted this the other day at Classic http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38373

I found this interesting. Â And we think todays cars all look alike. Â 1951 Ferarri 342 America 1953 Chevrolet Corvette 1955 Ford Thunderbird 1957 Ferrari 250 GT Cabriolet 1956 Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta 1953 AC Ace This is an interesting read as well> Â http://books.google.com/books?id=glKW-Kh-lmcC&lpg=PA1939&ots=uD_m1Aigab&dq=1945%20alfa%20romeo&pg=PA1939#v=onepage&q=1945%20alfa%20romeo&f=false

 My friends 280Z stolen back in the 80's was recovered with it's hidden kill switch still in the off position.  They don't need to get it running or make it drivable to steal it.  In some cases the tricks work, in some they don't but it's better to have made an effort to protect it than not.  Â

Oh absolutely don't limit your swap potential to what I listed. Â Those are just search terms to get your mind rolling. Â But BE SURE the chassis is good before you bolt $2500 onto it.

Condolences on the loss of your uncle. Â Welcome to the site. Â What is the current condition of the car? Â Pictures? Â $2500 can dissappear REALLY fast if the car is not clean already. Â You have identified realistic goals for the car. Â They are readily attainable goals using the knowledge on this site. Â Use the search feature and here are some keyword pointers. Search here for: Turbo Swap V8 Swap RB swap Read the stickies at the beginning of the suspension and brake sections. Â After you do some reading and some assesment of your 240Z, we can help you much more!

You can come back now, all the Porsche haters are gone. Â We need Z updates, Miata updates, and Porsche updates!? Â

I had most of the parts laying around, under grease, and since I "found" the time, I figured I'd put all those old Z parts to use....it took a lot of elbow grease. Â Elbow grease is free here. Â Â

Luck keeps them running...Â

Sweet ZX! Â I only put about 2 miles on my 83 Turbo ZX before parting it out for my swap but it was so cool driving around at night (no plates or reg) with the T-Tops off. Â Good luck with that one!

 I am running the 2 row core aluminum radiator shown in the pics above.  I paid $99 new, on ebay.  I feel guilty because it's probably not employing anyone in this country....but hey I'm unemployed so I gotta resort to the cheap stuff.  Anyhow, it works.  I use the mechanical fan on it.  It had a small microscopic pinhole in the corner weld of the top tank.  I discovered it after noticing that the underside of the hood was getting sticky.  A rat tail file over the hole and JB Weld fixed it right up. On the drivers side edge, the aluminum channel is a perfect size to wedge a snapple bottle into. Hold it in with a zip tie.  I use one as my overflow/expansion container.  Drill a hole in the cap and stick a hose to the bottom of it.  Works great!  You can see the snapple bottle in this pic.

Liability.

Yeah, aside from sounding like garbage when you time a bad shift, it's holding up. Â I figure, everything important is in good shape, so it's safe, and when it finally breaks or gets worse, maybe I'll actually pinpoint it. Â

Good luck. Â I have been under my '76 280Z for 20 years, have changed/upgraded EVERY single drivetrain part at least once, and have never gotten completely rid of the clunk. Â Mystery to me. Â I think it's just a combination of tolerances. Â A little here, a little there, and it clunks. My '72 240Z bone stock other than the L28 motor. Â ZERO clunk, and I mean ZERO! Here is a little diagnostic tidbit. Â Put the car in 1st gear on level ground. Â Creep under the car as far as you can. Â Have someone roll the car back and forth, bumping it against the engine. Â You will physically see where the slop is. Â My 76 will roll back and forth an inch or more, in gear!

  Nearly fully loaded 2010 Kia Forte SX.  Good looking, 175hp, back seat, 4-doors (coupe shown in my pic), 6 speed, 17" wheels, well under 20K, warranty.