cygnusx1

That camera was probaly HUGE and they couldn't help but notice in on the front of that Trolley. Â That was like space technology to them. Â I don't think I saw any planes in the sky either!Â

 Guys...the L28 was on factory FI and now it's Webers.  It's the SAME motor that smelled before and doesn't now.  I can't compare them to eachother. I can use my L28ET to compare to the L28 with Webers but that's on MSII and a low compression turbo motor; different ball game.  It's not a big deal, I just found it interesting that the engine smells cleaner after converting to Webers.  It most likely is due to the jetting resulting in a less smelly mixture...whatever that means.Â

Very cool indeed! Â How did it take so long to invent the double yellow line????

A log whittled to fit the holes, and duct tape! Â LOL.

Sorry to hear about the frustration. Â Is there anyone in the area that can tune it for you? Â It is possible to make it run as well as a factory DD, if not better.

I agree, in theory the fuel is experiencing a much greater delta pressure passing through an injector, which SHOULD lead to finer atomization, than a venturi fed at atmosphere into a vacuum. Â I am going to see if I can find published studies of fuel atomization in carburetors versus injectors. Â I am sure the subject is hugely documented somewhere.

Heavier sheet metal in many places, bigger dash, sound insulation, more wiring, thicker carpeting, larger frame rails, thicker interior plastic panels, more parts, bumpers, exhaust, EFI, steering rack is iron, and more... Did anyone mention that the 240Z has a quicker steering ratio in the rack? (yes Paul did!)Â I feel a huge difference between the two.

There are interior differences between the 240 and 280 that could make a cage model specific. Â For example, the 280Z strut towers are taller in the hatch area. Â 77 and 78 280Z's have a raised full wooden deck under the hatch carpeting.

That Z looks all business! Excellent work.

I have contemplated the same thing, but I wonder if the risk, if any, is worth it for $90 wheels. Â If you do get it done, certainly be our Guinea pig and report.

Yes, a properly sealed and located exhaust system goes a long way to minimizing the smell in the cabin but there are plenty of threads on plenty of websites about smell in the cabin of a Z. Â This is about, the smell of the exhaust with factory EFI versus a set of triples. Â At idle, in the garage, and also revving at idle, while driving, and engine braking, the Webers smell less. Â Yes, I suppose by jetting them "dirtier" I can make them smell too. Â BUT, at idle with the idle mix/air bypass screws set for a smooth idle on both the EFI and the Webers, the Webers smell less. Â I wish I had a WBO2 on both to quantify but I can only say, "obtaining the smoothest idle by adjusting idle mix @ spec. idle speeds". I have a hunch....that the Webers are feeding the motor a better atomization than the injectors for a more efficient burn...at least at idle.

I have the Sigma 80-400 lens and it's pretty nice. Â I also have a Sigma 18-50 which is really sharp. Â The telephoto lens is no Nikor or Canon L series, but for the price, you get a decent lens. Â Just beware that there are a lot of variations, so if you don't like the photo quality of the lens you get, exchange it for the same model until you get a good one. Â These bargain lenses do vary from piece to piece. Â Good lens review here: http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/ Â I find them very accurate. Â You can also go to http://www.airliners.net/ and sort through the photos by lens used. Â This way you can see the quality differences between the big dollar stuff and the OK stuff. Â I only had one really cheap Tamron so I can't comment on those. Â I like the Sigmas overall.

Really like that you are sticking to the true old school of turbo Z. Â Nice.

280Z turbo: Tokico Illuminas, Tokico 1" lowering springs(rates unknown -from kit), "bump steer" spacers, camber bushings, poly everything, 1-1/8"FSB, 7/8" RSB.  225/50-16, 16x8 Sportmax, Front and rear strut/firewall brace. 240Z wL28: Tokico Blues, Tokico 1" loweirng springs(rates un known -from kit), "bump steer" spacers, poly everything, 1" FSB, 5/8"? RSB, 225/50-16 16x7 Panasports All in all, very similar setups. The two feel similar on ride quality.  The 240 has less bump steer too.

Hey, thanks. Â I agree that I could have gotten a cheaper car to start with, but the bottom of this car was so clean, that I saved that much money not having to touch it with nothing other than a barbecue brush to scrub it clean of dirt and dust. Â I wasn't even fond of the color until I waxed it and put it in the sun. Â The color looks awesome in the sun. Â I am totally surprised at how the paint turned out. Â I have to add up my receipts....or do I? Â I think I will for this build...not for the Silver one though

Totally agree, what I smell or don't smell does not tell the exhaust content story.  I have no idea what component of the exhaust smells or burns my eyes. But I am using it as a before/after comparison of either A)Exhaust quantity in the cabin or B)Exhaust quality in the cabin.  However, I can work in my garage (not cabin smell, ambient outside) with the doors open of course, much, much longer with the engine running, since equipped with the Webers, as compared to when it was on stock EFI.  As another reference point, my L28ET 280Z with MSII that is well tuned (says me, and people that have driven it) also smells A LOT more than the Weber equipped L28. I know it's not fair to include that car in the comparo, different animal, wear and tear...etc. Facts and figures: ORIGINAL SETUP: I had MSA 2.5" exhaust on the L28 in the non-cali 76 280Z with stock injection and stock exhaust manifold.  Tip in stock location, flush with back of 240Z style bumper. NOW: In the 240Z, I have that same engine, with Webers now, with an MSA 2.5" exhaust/w headers.  The tip is in the same stock location and also flush with the bumper. Both systems, have and had, a muffler at the tail.  Both cars are stock bodied, in great shape.  I would venture to say that the 280Z has slightly better body seals, as I replaced them, and went over all of the problematic leak areas that are commonly known.

 Oh yeah I know it's just a passing observation, not fact.  But the fact is that my eyes don't burn, either at idle in the garage, or when driving.  This SAME motor made my eyes tear when it was running on the stock EFI (running 100% correctly) and I have owned it since 69K miles in 1989...it's now certainly 2010 and it has at least double the miles on it.  Location of the tip is irrelevant in THIS case. I don't argue that EFI can handle the ocean of conditions better than the carbs.  I understand both systems.

Yeah the L28 is stock with about 135K miles on it. Â It's the motor that came out of my 280Z about 7 years ago when I did the turbo swap. Â It doesn't hold a candle to the turbo car as far as power, but it is really fun anyhow. Â It will get better with time as I make improvements. Â The paint is nice but it's 1987 vintage. Â It will need some TLC or a strip and respray eventually. Â I plan on enjoying all the current nicks, dings, and scratches, worry free for a while though. Â As long as the rust stays away, I'm good for now.

 OK you guys...official word.  You were right.  They restrict flow.  At WOT over 3500 rpms they noticeably cut the power down.  I could thin them out by carving more foam out but then I might risk a physical collapse.  I would not want them getting sucked into the choke and lodging the throttle open, a la Toyota!  The verdict is that my son now has some new foam balls he can use to do magic tricks with.  I think I'll try on the K&N's that I have.  They are a bit dirty but I can buy new filters for them.

Test driving the new ride. Coming from a background of 20 years of driving my 280Z, I like this 240Z chassis better. Â My initial impressions are as follows. Â Compared to my 280Z: The 240Z, Turns in much quicker. Quicker steering response. Lighter on the steering wheel. Feels more balanced front to rear. (less push). More feedback to the driver. No clunk in the drivetrain. Better dead pedal position. Has a cool choke lever. What I like about the 280Z: Illuminated HVAC controls. Stronger chassis. Better weather sealing. Quieter inside Center vents can be aimed left to right. Real glovebox. Panel that hides the blower motor. Nice seat belts.

Sight and sound!

    Even with the factory ECCS this L28 smelled.  Now it's the SAME motor, untouched, running Webers, headers, 2.5" exhaust with no cat, and it smells pretty darn clean.  BTW the MSII motor has datalogs to prove that it is running in the 12.8-15 AFR range from full vacuum to 18psi of boost.  It still smells twice as bad as the Weber motor...and I mean both, standing behind the exhaust pipe AND while driving.  I suppose better atomization comes from the way a carb works...or maybe Nissan used crappy injectors, and my Ford Lightning 440cc squirters don't spray nicely either on the MSII.  Â

I just finished building this 240Z with triples on it. Â It's the first carb'd Z I have owned. Â My 76 was factory FI and then coverted to 83 EFI turbo and now megasquirted. Â What I find amazing is that upon firing up this 240Z with webers, which has my original 280Z motor in it, there is NO smoke, almost NO exhaust smell, and I can drive around without my eyes burning. Â Windows up or down. Â ALL of the other L versions I have run with EFI have made my eyes water. Â Is is possible that Webers are better at cleanly burning fuel in an L than EFI? Disclaimer, this is purely NOSE tested at this point. Â Other than my turbo MSII Z with a WBO2, I don't have a reference for "clean". Â Thoughts?

Seafoam....foam what's the difference....it all burns in a L motor! Â Â Seriously guys, I only have about 4 miles on the car now. Â If you wait a few days I can report any issues I may have with them.