S130Z

You have to have 40 technical posts. Posting in the non tech threads do not add to you post count under your avatar.

Post a pic of your datalog at idle with AccelEnrich in view. TPSdot and MAPdot shows your TPS/ms and MAP/ms fluctuations.

Well I am infront of a computer at work for 8 hours a day. So I would say I am on HBZ for a good 9 hours a day.

You need to fix your voltage problem first. Other than that, it does apear like you have a communication problem. I get resets from time to time, and in my logs I get similar spikes across the board.

My suggestion would be to turn off all enrichments and not use auto tune until you figure out your problem.

Jacob, do you have any datalogs from a time before you started experiencing these problems? If so, can you post a random screen shot from one showing your vBatt?

Also, if you decide to do this; when you choose an unused pin on the DB37 connector, check with your multi meter to make sure that pin is not grounded to the board. This will ground out the 12v that you ran back through the connector and can potentially damage something.

Try this. 1. Cut the center leg on Q9 and Q12 or desolder it so it does not reach the PCB. 2. Run a length of jumper wire from the center leg of Q9 and Q12 to an unused pin on the DB37 connector. 3. Wire this pin to a 12 volt source in the wiring harness, separate from the Megasquirt's power supply wire. I just did this and it cleared up all of my voltage spikes.

I have a feeling that you will be very dissapointed with a .82 A/R turbine. The turbo I am running can easily make 400hp and it spools reasonably fast. .63 Is about where the money is at with these motors.

If you have no detonation, and components to hold up against the heat, you should be able to run any boost level. I believe the main reason people have a max boost level is because they run into detonation. Look at diesels, some run upwards of 80psi of boost. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if your not close to detonating, you really have nothing to worry about. (That is if your internals can withstand the forces at specific power levels)

:iospalo::iospalo::iospalo: Yeah, yeah......I know. 2003! Big deal, get off my back already! Since I have been doing some research on turbo cams, I just wanted to ask if you ended up liking this cam profile. Also, what did you do about springs?

I will post a datalog of my dyno run on sunday, aftet I get off the dyno so you can see how mine spools. But I am running a .63 a/r turbine and a .70 a/r compressor.

Just a thought I had. Ceramicoating is to keep heat from going out of the heat source, as well as keeping it from coming in. Say you have heat building up on the inside of the bearing center housing. With the center housing coated, any cooler air outside of the center housing will not be able to extract heat as well as it could without the coating there. I could see having the turbine side coated to reduce heat coming off the housing. Doing so to allow for cooler air to help cool the center housing. But thats just what would make since to me. Maybe I am just overlooking something.

I believe in the book "Maximum Boost" it talks about manifold coatings and insulation. If I remember correctley, he states that coating the manifold and adding the wrap on top of that can cause damage to your manifold. As far as cooking the oil seals, thats just what I've heard. But you do see PLENTY of people on this site having great success running the HY turbos and making some very impressive numbers.

My only concern with running that turbo is that it was designed for a deisel engine. There have been numerous acounts here of people cooking their oil seals due to the design and materials used in the turbo. Do it right the first time and save yourself some money. 1 Turbo costs less than buying 2. I would also hesitate to wrap and ceramicoat the mannifold. I say this because I have heard horror stories of TOO MUCH heat being held inside the mannifold.

Yes, that is correct. When that shielded wire touches another, it grounds it out.

Go back and redo all your connections going to the dizzy. If thats where you think the problem is, start there. And make sure the sheilded wire around the dizzy signal wire is not touching any of the connections.

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm Also check the stickies under the MegaSquirt section. If you have any questions about the swap, feel free to PM me. And yes, that is an 82-83 Turbo optical dizzy.

Real nice! Got it at Target.....it was on sale.

Really anything LSD will do better than my 3.90 at this point.

You are absolutly correct! Add fixed!

I'm looking for a LSD diff w/ the 3.54(really any gearing under 3.90) gearing. Ever since I swapped my turbo motor in, I have had a strange traction problem?!?!?! Also, what ever else may be needed to swap in the diff to my ZX, but I'm sure I can just use the stubs from my half shafts. PM or call me at 662-630-0879 Thanks, Adam Silver

They recomend a solid peice of leed. If you read the instructions, they say the lead off a resistor is best. Maybe a small paper clip?

I would still try and reflash the firmware. I really don't know how to do this, but a quick search through diyautotune.com or megamanual.com should find you the answer.

Resets When MegaSquirt® resets, MegaTune displays a 'RESET X' in the lower right corner (where X is the cumulative number of resets (including restarts)) - it will also beep. Resets can cause a number of problems that cause the engine to run badly, including messing up the baro correction and enabling after start enrichment. So you should try to cure any reset issues before putting a lot of effort into tuning. Resets generally indicate that the power to the processor was interrupted. This could mean that the input power actually was cut, but it can also mean that there was a power surge into the back plane (ground), so that there was no longer a 5v differential between the inputs and the grounds... Resets are often caused by noisy power supplies (usually the alternator), or poor grounds. First, fix the grounds, make sure all are perfect and do not connect to areas that are dirty, rusted or painted. Place them close together. To check the alternator, you can shut the engine off, remove the wiring to the alternator (don't let it ground on anything, some wires might be hot). The start the engine and see if the resets go away. If the resets disappear, the alternator is the problem. You can fix the alternator and/or add a car stereo power filter to the MegaSquirt® controller's 12V supply. These are cheap (~$5) and widely available. They typically have three wires: one from a switched 12V source (the original source for the MegaSquirt® controller), one to go to the MegaSquirt® controller (with clean power), and a ground wire. Ignition noise, solenoids turning on or off, and that sort of thing can also cause resets. Check your harness routing to see if any ground or signal wires are near noise sources such as spark plug wires or the coil. Finally, non-resistor spark plugs have been known to cause resets. Use resistor plugs whenever possible.