S130Z

Good job man! Glad to hear you found out the problem. So whats next for it after the injectors?

I am running 440cc injectors with a required fuel @ 7.1 and have had no problem with dialing in my VE tables. Although this idea of lowering it really makes me want to give it a shot for a more accurate table. I have notived how sensitive my VE table is though. Maybe when I get back from my cruise in a week I will take a day or two off and make a new table. Cam, If you try this before I post results, let me know how it goes for you.

You can run that boost pressure with the stock turbo, but it will start blowing hot air from then on up. You really would want to run an intercooler if your going that high. First off, what type of power are you wanting to achieve? On a side note, this topic has been covered several times. I really urge you to use the search button before someone rips you a new one about it.

Also, if your were running 10:1 for a while, change your spark plugs. I hit 10:1 for the first time the other day and I fould all my plugs out. Also, if you havent tried it before, try side gapping them. If you do, let me know the results. As for the accel enrich. In the tunning section of the MegaManual, it says to start with your lowest value of 100kpa/s.

Hey Cam, Try setting your minimun accell enrichment on the TPS side at 100kpa/s and see if that helps with anything else. Did you try playing with your accel enrich after changing your injectors?

Great looking Zedex! Who did the shaved rear? It looks great!

Very nice work man! I am getting pretty good venting also through my 38mm Turbonetics Evo gate on a 15lbs spring. I have yet to see over 15psi in a datalog. Unfortunatly I have to get rid of my manifold because of space restrictions in a ZX with the size turbo I'm using.

We have had our face palms too!

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Are they high impendance injectors or low impendance?

Well you can't always be the first to think of something! I'm sure it takes quite a bit of mechanical/electrical hardware to get everything working they way it's intended. That link was very helpfull. Magnetts are amzing peices of work! Well maybe someday it will be in production cars, but those dam oil companies kill all the good ideas!

As most of us do as we lie in bed with the lady, we think about our cars. The other night I though of a neat idea involving a throttle-less intake system. As I pondered on how to do this, I realized the only other thing that limits air flow to the cylinder is....the intake valve. I had seen a springless valvetrain setup that involved a sort of crankshaft style cam that inspired me. I began to think that if the intake valve was directly conected to another unit that could control how the valve opens, you could potentialy control the amount of air allowed to the cylinders. So if anyone has any idea of a system that can controll the lift of a valve, I would love to hear it. (BTW, this topic is just for conversational purposes only. I don't want to hear anything about it being too impractiacal or hard to make)

Well in that case.....Ninja 250 FTW!!!!

BTW, This is an R1.

It could either indicate a bad pump or the fuel pressure regulator. Start at the pump, and if it doesnt get better, try the FPR(its the round thing on the fuel rail with a vaccuum line attached to it).

Thanks DTS, I'm in the proccess of trying to eliminate as much signal noise as possible. I went back and looked at my tune last night and for some reason my EGO corrections were set to a min of 800 rpms. I changed it and it cleaned up a lot of the stumble. I'll keep my progress posted as it gets better.

I would start over in the rear with new pads and rotors in the back. AdvanceAutoParts has them for chead, I think I paid like $40 for new rotors and pads the first time I swapped them in the rear. That is an odd wear pattern in the rear for sure. After I swapped to all AdvanceAuto stuff I could lock up my rear tires pretty easily, but the front ones are obviously harder to lock up. Give that a shot and see what happens. Good luck!

That is very similar to what I had in the shop. If you end up getting one and need some parts, I'm in the bussiness!

Hell yeah girl! I have a brand new DRZ400SM on the floor and I want to take it SOOOOO bad!

That was where I was going with it to start with, but no one really picked up on that.

Well I work in the Motorcycle bussiness and I would recomend the Suzuki SV650/1000. They are great bikes at a great price and look dam good to me. We had one in our shop with no fron couling with a double headlight setup that look amazing(wish I had a pick to send to you). If you have any questions, let me know! I work with Yamaha, Suzuki & Kawasaki.

If the main concern was on the stagard valve placement, than you could make a single intake that kind of wraps over the top of the valve cover. But then you have the horrible task of changing spark plugs! Since you mentioned the 5 valve heads....I work in the PowerSports business and a few of the personal watercrafts have this design. If you have any questions about them, let me know and I can shoot the techs a question or two.

Hey DTS, I know this may be an old thread, but I seem to be having a hesitation/stumbling coming off from idle like you did. But if I get my foot in the gas just a tad more, it clears up and drives fine. Only light throttle applications cause these conditions. My only difference is that I am running the stock turbo dizzy. I doubt my wires are mixed, but I assume that would cause different running conditions than if you had them mixed on the VR sensor. If you have any ideas, shout them at me. In the mean time, I will keep this up to date on my progress. Thanks! Adam SIlver

DEAL!!! Where do I sign?

Hey Phill, If I click on the ad in your video, do I get a cut of the proffit?